Perkins m20 103.6

[Capt Doug]

I need help in removing the timing cover I find nine bolts actually 8 bolts and stud with a nut on it is there anything else holding the timing cover in place 1993 engine

[skipperpete]

Yes capt Doug there are two more things holding the timing cover on.
1. The governor linkage, you need to lift the injector pump out and release the link pin
2. The lube oil pump. It’s half in the engine and half in the timing cover. Nothing to undo but it’s a tight fit in the cover so a bit of energetic wiggling is required.
Refitting the cover requires getting the roll pin dowel in EXACTLY the right place.
I’ll post a couple of pics later.

[skipperpete]

Here are the relevant photos

[Capt Doug]

Thank you very much for the info I actually graduated from Perkins School back in the early 90s but I had never seen one of these Kubota Perkins and finding information on this engine was a real challenge and getting parts for it I'm finding out is probably impossible thank you again

[Capt Doug]

Well I removed as many things as I could even the water pump">raw water pump the fuel pump will be fun getting that little clip back in while the fuel pumps halfway in and out
Energetic wiggling does not seem to be doing any good at all don't want to get aggressive cuz I'm sure there's damage that could be done to that timing cover and I'd already checked on trying to find a replacement cover zero luck on that
28 years of not moving seems it doesn't want to

[skipperpete]

Hi Captdoug. Your 103-6 is a Shibaura and was adopted by Perkins, Volvo, Caterpillar, northern lights and a host of other engine and machinery manufacturers.
That cover is a bit of a nuisance if it sticks and the one and only stud ( the other fasteners are all bolts) is frequently the major sticking point. Is the cover moving on the stud? If so just keep spraying it with penetrating oil and wiggling it. It might need to be wedged off gently using pieces of aluminium flat bar to fill the gap as you move diagonally across the cover with a thin tapered wedge. It’s very important to keep the gaps even and not tilt the cover or apply too much pressure in one point...... this procedure must be done evenly and gently around the gasket perimeter. The crankshaft pulley is off, right?
The rack clip is easy to refit with fine needle nose pliers and as a failsafe measure run a loop/length of fishing line through the eye of the retaining spring clip.
You can get spares for that engine from “PARTS4ENGINES” in the U.K.
It helps to warm the timing cover evenly but with a paint strip gun, not a blowtorch.
Go over the bolts again just to make sure that you got em all, especially the little group around the bottom near the crankshaft.
Why do you need to remove the timing cover? Governor problems?
Good luck.

[Capt Doug]

Got the cover off earlier today doing basically what you just suggested
The good news is I saw no damage on the cover so the oil leak must have been gaskets that just went bad
I talked to the people from parts4engines
They basically said they didn't show any of the parts but I was giving them parts numbers from a manual that I got online so maybe I need to go the route of finding the parts for the other engines that you named

[skipperpete]

Excellent Capt Doug. The “Perkins M20” should be enough info for them to supply you with gaskets and other parts. Maybe the crankshaft seal is the oil leak culprit or the gasket on that weird flat oil pan. When you start to put er back together, do a dry run with the timing cover with no shaft seal or gasket to get a feel for how the oil pump locating dowel fits into place..... it’s important to get this right.

[Capt Doug]

The leak was at the very bottom of the timing case and I was expecting to see a crack but the case looks just fine on the inside after a clean up

[skipperpete]

Are you replacing the crankshaft seal? Check to see if the shaft is ok where the seal runs on it before putting it back together, they rust between the pulley and the seal.