Painting the yacht

[toddster8]

I had good results with roll-and tip one-part polyurethane, no thinning. But the ambient temperature was over 100° F and very low humidity, which may have had something to do with it. It went on so smoothly that I actually had trouble seeing the "ocean blue" hull against the sky, and got a little dizzy at times. But the fumes may have had something to do with that...

So the boat is currently hauled, for the first time in six years, and I did try to "touch up" a few scratches and rub marks. It looks OK from where I'm sitting now, but when the sun shines on it, the "patches" are clearly visible. It will need an entire uniform coat before splashing in the spring.

[Beau.Vrolyk]

Originally Posted by toddster8

...snip...

So the boat is currently hauled, for the first time in six years, and I did try to "touch up" a few scratches and rub marks. It looks OK from where I'm sitting now, but when the sun shines on it, the "patches" are clearly visible. It will need an entire uniform coat before splashing in the spring.

We've had good luck with a one-part Poly and simply buffing out the patches then waxing the hull. A lot less work than an entire coat of paint.

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by HopCar

I’ve helped paint several small boats and had terrible results using roll and tip. Turns out the trick is don’t tip it! Just roll.
Buy the book on painting from Port Townsend Watercraft and follow the instructions. They say to use Interlux Perfection and thin it 15%. It really works.
The book is only a few bucks to down load. E-Books

Interlux "Perfection" was good paint. Too bad they don't make it anymore. What other 2 part paints have a good rep for the roll and tip method?

[Dave852]

Originally Posted by pcmm

Interlux "Perfection" was good paint. Too bad they don't make it anymore. What other 2 part paints have a good rep for the roll and tip method?

Get hhhhujweawji[IMG][/IMG]

[jram]

Originally Posted by pcmm

Interlux "Perfection" was good paint. Too bad they don't make it anymore. What other 2 part paints have a good rep for the roll and tip method?

I've seen good results on a friend's boat using Quantum. It was easy to work with and a nice finish. I sprayed mine with Quantum and had a favourable result.

[edexter]

Painted the deck on our "yacht" (a venerable 1984 Rhodes 22) this spring, using Pettit Easypoxy deck paint. Tip and roll did not work, but straight rolling with a small cabinet roller and a fine foam roller (well, dozens of them) worked great. Our gelcoat was very weathered and dinged up - the anchor landed on the deck a few times, I think - so I touched up the dings, sanded the heck out of it, wiped it with alcohol, primed it, and put on two coats plus a sanded coat in the traffic areas where the Skipper has to go forward to tend the anchor and dock lines. I sanded between coats, and paid attention to the directions to avoid temperatures below 50 degrees F, and moist conditions (although that last was very hard to do in the Mid-Atlantic this spring!).


It came out sufficiently well that people at our marina asked if we had bought a new boat! There are a few drips here and there I'll touch up in the spring, but the Skipper is well pleased (it is her boat, I am just the Chief Engineer and Meteorological Officer). It lasted the season very well, so I am well pleased. And yes, respiratory protection is vital, I used a HEPA vac on the sander, and respiratory protection ranging from a full-face respirator with VOC and particulate filters to a good dust mask depending on what I was doing. - E. Dexter, Chief Engineer, S/V Certainty, Frogmortar Creek, MD

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by botanybay

Almost assuredly you are the only one who notices! I got more compliments on the rolled job on the 35 footer. They always assumed I had sprayed it myself!

I could find the pattern of strokes I used with the roller but no one else could.

The advantage is you don't cry so much when you scratch it docking! Compared to having the perfect paint job for the first trip after the job ***grin***

Yes, I agree, I am probably the only one that notices. I know there are imperfections and I can see them if the sun is at the right incidence but half an hour later they seem to disappear.

If I could achieve a finish like Joe Okros has with his Morgan (see above post) I'd be more than happy.


Clive

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by coopec43

I've also painted the bilges, bulkheads and internals of cabinets/cupboards with an epoxy marketed for rust protection. The large hardware chain salesman said it was perfect for fiberglass - "you can get the same paint from our marine section for double the price"

There are two main brands sold in Australia "Killrust"and "Rustguard". I assume you have the same kind of paint in the US of A? (Maybe Rustoleum Appliance white gloss?)


Killrust Epoxy Gloss Enamel Paint - Wattyl

Killrust Epoxy Gloss Enamel. An advanced, anti-corrosive epoxy formula; Provides durability and maximum metal protection in an attractive gloss finish; Apply ...

www.wattyl.com.au/en/find-the-right.../WattylKillrustEpoxyGlossEnamel.html


White Knight Rust Guard® Epoxy Enamel - White Knight Paints


https://www.whiteknightpaints.com.au/...rust-guard/.../white-knight-rust-guard-epoxy-...
White Knight Rust Guard® Epoxy Enamel may be used on all metal surfaces. Ideal for use on metal fences, roofs, doors, gutters, downpipes, windows, railings ...


Clive

FWIW, I have used a lot of the Killrust Epoxy Enamel (100+ litres) and some of the WhiteKnight (say 10 litres). I first got the WhiteKnight when I couldn't source the Killrust and I remember the salesperson saying something like "it's the same stuff".

My limited experience is that it isn't the same stuff. The Killrust was easier to apply in a wider range of environmental conditions, stayed "white" longer and lasted longer. All round, it was a better paint!

I was using both on epoxy coated wood, plywood and fibreglass.

But to be fair, it would be a better test if I had used equal amounts of both products.

[01kiwijohn]

Looks good. Go sailing.

[SuW]

Originally Posted by pcmm

Interlux "Perfection" was good paint. Too bad they don't make it anymore. What other 2 part paints have a good rep for the roll and tip method?

Is this true? It's still for sale on the Defender.com website! I couldn't buy it in Canada last year because of some new Canadian regulations about having to get approval for every colour of every paint or somesuch (and Interlux didn't sell enough to justify the expense.) So I'm told.

[SuW]

Originally Posted by Joe Okros

I used a 2 part paint called Hempel, did it all by myself (3 coats) and only rolled,-the secret is to have the right roller. I used a roller sold by the West System guys for Epoxy,--its very thin fine foam covering and does not fall apart. Lots of thinners as everyone says and same for the primer, I did the primer too thick originally and spent days sanding it down, finishing with 800 grit wet sanding.

I understand your pain about insufficient thinning of the primer. The first boat I painted was like that when I arrived on the scene; luckily the owner could hire some yard idlers to help sand it!

And yes those rollers are good. Not too big either. 7 inches, I think.

[SuW]

Originally Posted by Down East

Totally agree.
I’ve done a lot of rolling & tipping with Interlux Perfection (very good results) and Epiphanes (deeper luster but complete PITA).

Hi Down East! Can you explain why using Epiphanes was difficult?

[Icarus]

Originally Posted by coopec43

Fore and Aft


You are spot on.

*Paint Tank Capacity : 10 Litres
*Type of Feed : Suction
*Standard Dia of Nozzle :3.5mm
*Set The distance from the gun to the work piece as near as possible within the range of 200mm-250mm(8-10 in)
*Weight:10KG

QUOTE Maybe this time buy a gun with a 1.2mm tip, Super Cheap Auto has some cheap guns......QUOTE

Can't I just buy a 1.2mm nozzle for the gun?


Clive

You can buy a very good Devilbiss gun for 300 AUD, guns sold by Supercheap are exectly that cheap and nasty. Saying that, spray painting large surfaced need a somwhat experienced operator.
We paint yacht up tp 70ft using a linear polyurethane with rollers and tip off. No problem at all.
I also use at times a pressure pot and a 1.8mm nozzle with good results.
If you don't know how to apply paint just do the prep and pay a professional painter to apply the paint...spraying a 40ft hull takes about 4hrs, ( top coat ) no stripes or boot topping.
Prep includes filling dents and scratches, spot priming , sanding , masking ec takes about 2 days.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Icarus

Prep includes filling dents and scratches, spot priming , sanding , masking ec takes about 2 days.

I have got a good quality gun but it is gravity fed and its' capacity would not have been sufficient to do one whole side.


Actually I am very happy with the preparation as I can only see a few slight dents. (I took a lot longer than two days!!) I started going wrong when I put the two part primer on and I didn't recover from there.


I think the other mistake I made was picking the wrong brand of paint. No doubt professionals know hand to use it but I suspect it is rather unforgiving in the hands of an amateur. (I think I'll use International Paint next time)


Clive

[botanybay]

Originally Posted by coopec43

boatman

Rightly or wrongly I believe rolling and tipping with two part polyurethane paint is for the professionals who have the right equipment - tent to control temperature and humidity and "spacesuit" protection for safety.


I'd love to know what paint they used to paint the 12meter.



Clive

For spraying you are right for safety. A good organic respirator is sufficient for rolling or brushing these two part coatings.