Interior refit 1970's kit sailboat questions

[wingless]

Originally Posted by Spot

... and make a stainless on for the stove that doubles as a heat shield behind the stove.

A hinged stainless stove cover could be a nice solution.

Spacing the hinge away from the hull so gravity could retain it open while the boat is still might work well.

The cabinet volume surrounding the stove could be a handy food storage area (even though it would need to be emptied before cooking) due to easy access.

[Spot]

I am hoping to use the galley cabinets for storage as they will be the easiest to access once the cushions are in. Fiddled with it in 3D over coffee this morning. The 3D CAD model is a good visualization tool but is not 100% accurate so I still need to mock-up, pattern, and fit directly in the boat.

The new forestay turnbuckles arrived yesterday. Gorgeous fall day here, frosty, sunny, dead calm. I might give the boat project a rest today and look at leaves...then maybe stop by another fabric store... Tomorrow is cool, gusting 30-40 mph, by Friday we are back into 60-70's F 5-10 mph wind during the day so we may have a last chance for a sail/putter.

[wingless]

Nice CAD model.

Why not place the stove near the inboard cabinet edge and have short walls near the stove front corners to contain storage stuff?

That change would permit the hinged lid to be flat, probably w/ an edge stiffener, leaving the stove controls exposed, or make the bottom door taller.

Having a flat hinged stove lid would be easier than an ell shaped lid to have gravity retention, because an ell puts mass more inboard.

Add the interior hull side wall to the CAD model to ensure gravity retention works,

My speculation is that the hinge point will need to move inboard, w/ a fixed flat top surface section against the hull.

The removable sink cover could fit into a pocket if the sink is mounted as shown in the model, but a second surface is added on top of that counter surface, with a sink opening slightly smaller than the outside perimeter of that sink lip. That type of pocket would contain the sink cover.

[LittleWing77]

Originally Posted by wingless

It may still be possible to get shag carpeting to retain / restore that '70s look...

Yeah - the perfect luuv cave...! LOL

What would your wife/gf think of that, Spot?

Teehee,
LittleWing77

(My official vote would be to get RID of all the shag. Prime candidate/contributor to interior mould... but your CAD mock-up doesn't seem to include any shag carpet, so I'm assuming that decision has already been made.)

[wingless]

Originally Posted by LittleWing77

My official vote would be to get RID of all the shag. Prime candidate/contributor to interior mould... but your CAD mock-up doesn't seem to include any shag carpet, so I'm assuming that decision has already been made.

The OP had already gutted the interior, removing everything down to the hull (shag carpeting, Styrofoam flotation, berths, benches, galley, head and mouse droppings). The replacement is well underway.

[Spot]

LOL Littlewing77. There is no carpeting left in the boat and there is no wife/gf/admiral among the crew so I don't have the advantages and disadvantages associated therein.

I agree about the carpeting as a mold spore garden but I also get why it was done: a fast way to cover the coarse roving in the lamination and add color without fairing the glass or doing some other sort of paneling or upholstery.

I went to another fabric store yesterday. 100's of rolls of Sunbrella- some were the stiffer awing and lawn furniture type, some were a softer hand for upholstery. 20 to 50 USD a yard which means fabric will cost more than foam on this project. Their foam was not as robust (charcoal type vs high resilient). I got some ideas but am really no closer to a final interior color scheme/bill of materials as I was before I went. Maybe once the sticker shock subsides I will try again.

[wingless]

Select fabric options that are acceptable for the project. Include eBay in the purchasing phase. I have had acceptable results (including decent pricing) for fabric purchases from those vendors. I've also purchased LOTS of stuff from Sailrite.

[LittleWing77]

Originally Posted by Spot

LOL Littlewing77. There is no carpeting left in the boat...

But just THINK, Spot!

You could find some really hideous orange shag, recarpet the whole interior thereby recreating my boyfriend's van circa 1981 and then cruise chicks! The possibilities are endless!

Haw-haw-haw.
LittleWing77

Oh, and thanks very much for the tips, Wingless, but I absolutely do know what's going on. So does Spot.

[wingless]

Originally Posted by wingless

Why not place the stove near the inboard cabinet edge and have short walls near the stove front corners to contain storage stuff?

That change would permit the hinged lid to be flat, probably w/ an edge stiffener, leaving the stove controls exposed, or make the bottom door taller.

My read on the Dometic Origo 1500 manual, page 16, is that 2" of side clearance is required, probably includes the front and rear.

So, if the stove is slid forward to increase the contiguous rear volume then the lower door probably shouldn't extend up to close off the opening.

It looks like the 30" minimum vertical clearance above the stove is probably okay.

[Spot]

The top of stove to ceiling clearance is currently 22" so some sort of shield may be in order. Maybe a stainless steel plate with a frosted glass insert and a LED light behind that...

I am looking at 1/4" Seaboard (brand) HDPE for the window frames. Has anyone tried this product?

[wingless]

It sounds like new window frames are going to be fabricated to duplicate the damaged parts.

If so, that sounds like a good plan.

The Seaboard is listed as having UV protection, addressing a weakness of HDPE for this application.

If new exterior and interior frames are going to be machined (probably w/ new Plexiglass windows), then the easiest design would be to duplicate the existing parts, using through bolts, w/ fasteners visible from the exterior, like on the existing setup. Maybe have stainless carriage bolts for a better exterior appearance.

Another option would be to have a smooth exterior frame, grabbing and sealing onto the opening, plus grabbing and sealing onto the window. If going that route then a compliant seal is required to permit the interior frame to properly compress both the frame to the hull and the frame to the window. This method would have fasteners only on the interior.

My suggestion on the stove is to fire it up in a small still air environment like a bathroom or closet to discover what heat column exists in a worst case condition. If possible have a horizontal upper surface w/ thermocouple probes to quantify the thermal effect. (Don't burn the place down during the test!)

[Spot]

Originally Posted by wingless

It sounds like new window frames are going to be fabricated to duplicate the damaged parts.

If so, that sounds like a good plan.

The Seaboard is listed as having UV protection, addressing a weakness of HDPE for this application.

If new exterior and interior frames are going to be machined (probably w/ new Plexiglass windows), then the easiest design would be to duplicate the existing parts, using through bolts, w/ fasteners visible from the exterior, like on the existing setup. Maybe have stainless carriage bolts for a better exterior appearance.

Another option would be to have a smooth exterior frame, grabbing and sealing onto the opening, plus grabbing and sealing onto the window. If going that route then a compliant seal is required to permit the interior frame to properly compress both the frame to the hull and the frame to the window. This method would have fasteners only on the interior.

My suggestion on the stove is to fire it up in a small still air environment like a bathroom or closet to discover what heat column exists in a worst case condition. If possible have a horizontal upper surface w/ thermocouple probes to quantify the thermal effect. (Don't burn the place down during the test!)

My stove testing plan is an Italian style 'mokka' coffee pot on the stove in the boat with the mock-up cabinet under constant supervision. I have a multimeter with a K thermocouple for taking readings if needed. Maybe a fry pan with some eggs and hash browns if I am feeling sassy. We have to make sure we're not jeopardizing any future SHAG CARPET installations near the stove.

Window frame materials as 1/4" Seaboard will be about 200$ cut into blanks and shipped with several spares. My guy at work seems OK to run a few out for me. I will have to match drill the mounting holes on the boat.

[wingless]

Note that the storage below the sink and below the stove are probably better suited to have a drawer than a cabinet. They are low height and deep.

[wingless]

Originally Posted by Spot

My stove testing plan is an Italian style 'mokka' coffee pot on the stove in the boat with the mock-up cabinet under constant supervision. I have a multimeter with a K thermocouple for taking readings if needed. Maybe a fry pan with some eggs and hash browns if I am feeling sassy. We have to make sure we're not jeopardizing any future SHAG CARPET installations near the stove.

Plan sounds good. Worst case would be with hatches closed for a still air environment.

[Spot]

I was wondering about that too: door, drawer, or a cubby with an access hole.
For the depths here, drawers would be the easier to manage, and I could even pull them out and bring them into the house when not sailing.