Gulf Coast 18 Fiberglass Repair and Other Refitt Tasks

[Spot]

Pretty classic old boat rot stuff.
Had they drilled the mounting holes, filled them in with resin and what not, and redrilled them to accept machine screws things would have not gone south. There would also be some sort of sealant, butyl topsides and something more robust for near/under the waterline, between the boat and external hardware. I would only use screws on the inside of the cabin.

It seems like you are on the right track. I would say save a little more existing outer fiberglass transom, maybe 2-3" where you can, and taper it back 8 or 10 or 12:1 to blend in with the new fiberglass and plywood. Also think about how to eliminate 'hard spots' with tapers and fillets. If you pre-glassed the new transom then ground it back a little (black and yellow on pic) that would save you from trying to hang 1/4" (6.4mm) cloth and resin on a near vertical surface. I would also have a plywood and glassed-in 'doubler' behind the rudder hardware and motor mount. I would be inclined to re-use the mount if hung properly.

[M.B. Naegle]

Originally Posted by Spot

Pretty classic old boat rot stuff.
Had they drilled the mounting holes, filled them in with resin and what not, and redrilled them to accept machine screws things would have not gone south. There would also be some sort of sealant, butyl topsides and something more robust for near/under the waterline, between the boat and external hardware. I would only use screws on the inside of the cabin.

It seems like you are on the right track. I would say save a little more existing outer fiberglass transom, maybe 2-3" where you can, and taper it back 8 or 10 or 12:1 to blend in with the new fiberglass and plywood. Also think about how to eliminate 'hard spots' with tapers and fillets. If you pre-glassed the new transom then ground it back a little (black and yellow on pic) that would save you from trying to hang 1/4" (6.4mm) cloth and resin on a near vertical surface. I would also have a plywood and glassed-in 'doubler' behind the rudder hardware and motor mount. I would be inclined to re-use the mount if hung properly.

Thanks. In addition to potential for leaks, my other concern with the bottom rudder bracket is I have no way to hold the nuts inside to tighten it up. I'm guessing it was attached before the outer shell? There is the one access hole back there but I don't think I can bend my arm around enough to place and hold nuts. Maybe instead of nuts I can place some large plastic or aluminum plugs where the holes will be in the plywood, and then drill and tap them after the glass is done?

I misspoke earlier too, I will need to at least lift the back of the top of the boat to drop in the plywood, so once everything is carved out, I'll start at the back corners and start splitting. Best case is it'll be flexible enough that I only have to spread the back and not worry about the front seam, keel well, or cabin pan.

[Rumrace]

1/4” marine has two more layers of wood than lumber yard sheet. It doesn’t use water soluble glue or steam to assemble layers to avoid voids. It’s also more flexible.
The 5/8 for the transom is dear. I’d pre glass it and assemble the new gunnels coach roof fibreglass with Epoxy. You could use end grain balsa for deck and couch roof.
How are your connection points for the rigging? The chain plates. One was on the transom, bow, and one or two each side.
Any gunnel hardware is window dressing the chain plates connect to the main spars.
I’ve no idea how to attach a new stern . I’d check you tube cause it’s a common repair. Mostly I’ve seen aluminum hills loose their hardwood transom

[Spot]

It may work to use a 2-piece approach to work the new transom in to avoid having to split the upper and lower hulls. Butter the transom split with resin and screw together using the doubler as a stop. Tape over seam when done.
I would also consider an access plate on the cockpit tub transom wall to get at the lower gudgeon bolts.

[M.B. Naegle]

Originally Posted by Rumrace

1/4” marine has two more layers of wood than lumber yard sheet. It doesn’t use water soluble glue or steam to assemble layers to avoid voids. It’s also more flexible.
The 5/8 for the transom is dear. I’d pre glass it and assemble the new gunnels coach roof fibreglass with Epoxy. You could use end grain balsa for deck and couch roof.
How are your connection points for the rigging? The chain plates. One was on the transom, bow, and one or two each side.
Any gunnel hardware is window dressing the chain plates connect to the main spars.
I’ve no idea how to attach a new stern . I’d check you tube cause it’s a common repair. Mostly I’ve seen aluminum hills loose their hardwood transom

I've been thinking of installing the transom like that. Making a glass encased panel and "gluing" it in place before totally glassing the outside, as that would mean I don't have to get to the inside after it's in. I'm only worried about it coming lose or letting water get between the seams if the epoxy failed. Most all of the strength is in the outer skin.

Most all of the attached deck and mast hardware is there and intact as it mounts (loose stuff is MIA). I'm planning to replace all the blocks as they're sun rotted and frozen, but everything is bolted through the deck with washers and nuts. I say "most" because it looks like the damage to the starboard gunwale might have been from a top-down impact, but MIGHT also have been from a cleat ripping through the deck. There's a cleat on the bow and holes for one on the port gunwale. Part of the hole looks like something was hooked through the gunwale and pulled forward. Like the cleat got punched through the deck while it was tied to a dock and the rope ripped the fiberglass as the line was taut. Making the gunwales stronger would be beneficial, so I'm still leaning towards screwing on wood covers, instead of patching the glass.

[M.B. Naegle]

Originally Posted by Spot

It may work to use a 2-piece approach to work the new transom in to avoid having to split the upper and lower hulls. Butter the transom split with resin and screw together using the doubler as a stop. Tape over seam when done.
I would also consider an access plate on the cockpit tub transom wall to get at the lower gudgeon bolts.

I REALLY like that idea. The current 1/2" transom is pretty much right up against the back wall of the cockpit, so I'd only be able to add a middle support panel to the lower 12" or so, but I could add a raised strip to the outside fairly easily. It would be under the rudder so it would be easy to "fit" cosmetically. Making that middle section thicker also helps with securing the rudder brackets, which themselves would also help keep the sections together.

I think I'm going to run with this split transom idea. Might even help in sourcing the marine ply as I can get smaller panels to fit together.

[coopec43]

Surely you can't be serious? Are you having a lend of us?

What is so special about that derelict?


Why don't you buy a set of plans and build a new boat from scratch? That will be easier and when finished (hopefully) you'll have something of value

[GopherBaroque]

Having done similar with my first boat, I would fully agree with coopec43, to make sure the time and money are worth the effort, especially compared to building new or buying a nicer starting point. As I look back, I could have bought a pretty nice used boat for the money I spent "repairing/upgrading" my Cal 21. But we did make some good memories along the way.

Since you will press on with your rebuild anyway, I will add my story of punched-in transom on my Cal 21 (too thin for the push of a little outboard). I rebuilt it with foam core/fiberglass including a little inset pocket with vertical wall to allow the new motor mount to mount upright, not canted forward with the transom angle. The sides of the pocket braced the transom to better take the motor load. On the other side of the transom I blended in a shelf to hold a three gallon outboard fuel tank. I thought it worked out well, the small outboard / fuel system was simple but tanks could be easily swapped on the fly for "refueling" on longer trips.

The shelf turned out to have a side benefit as a transition step from cockpit to beach when grounded. That worked out so well getting on and off the boat that I added a similar rear shelf/step to my second boat, an aluminum run-about also used for beach-camping.

[Shaneesprit]

I would run a mile.
Even if you did want to get full into a big project, take on a bigger boat.
Small boats are worth small money. Cheaper just to by a working one, below 20ft they are worth almost nothing.
So if your Working to put your hard work into a project, do one that will have some value when you’re finished.
The trailer might be worth salvaging.
If your have this in your keep, you have made a mistake dispose of it straight away before making a bigger one by starting repairs.

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by M.B. Naegle

I REALLY like that idea. The current 1/2" transom is pretty much right up against the back wall of the cockpit, so I'd only be able to add a middle support panel to the lower 12" or so, but I could add a raised strip to the outside fairly easily. It would be under the rudder so it would be easy to "fit" cosmetically. Making that middle section thicker also helps with securing the rudder brackets, which themselves would also help keep the sections together.

I think I'm going to run with this split transom idea. Might even help in sourcing the marine ply as I can get smaller panels to fit together.

I don't much like the idea of the transom being split vertically, right where the rudder load is. If splitting of the transom is unavoidable, I think I would have an upper and lower piece.

But before that, I think I'd just carefully cut off (temporarily) the last 2 or 3 inches of stern deck, so that you have enough clearance to slide in a single fg-wrapped transom piece. You would also probably have to remove some of the cockpit bottom or back to give enough access for cleaning, prep and filleting. Then you fg the removed deck and cockpit pieces back into place.

[Spot]

Originally Posted by Lake-Effect

I don't much like the idea of the transom being split vertically, right where the rudder load is. If splitting of the transom is unavoidable, I think I would have an upper and lower piece.

But before that, I think I'd just carefully cut off (temporarily) the last 2 or 3 inches of stern deck, so that you have enough clearance to slide in a single fg-wrapped transom piece. You would also probably have to remove some of the cockpit bottom or back to give enough access for cleaning, prep and filleting. Then you fg the removed deck and cockpit pieces back into place.

An upper and lower piece could work too since there is no tumblehome (reverse curve) in the transom shape. I was thinking that a fiberglassed joint with an internal or external backing board would more than exceed an unreinforced piece for strength and get around having to split the hull or cut a slot into the upper corner between deck and transom. In a Cadillac solution I would have a slot into both sides of the joint and fill that in with a wooden spline and resin before glassing it shut. Belt, suspenders, fishing line, and duct tape...

[Seaward22]

There is a saying that a boat is a hole in the water you throw money into, for that boat you'll need a front loader to hold the cash. Even if you repair the obvious damage at great expense unless you sound the hull, check for moisture in the core etc. you'll never really know the true condition which could end badly in heavy seas.


For glass repair BoatworksToday is a great site on youtube. I believe he has a video on repairing a transom and I believe he regretted starting it. I was repairing what I think may have been lightning damage to my hull and found West Systems Epoxy's engineers to be of great assistance in laying up their product.


For reconditioning sails Sale Care Inc. in Ford City, PA has done mine in the past (11/29/1996) and I was pleased with the results, having them redone now.

[coopec43]

M.B. Naegle
Please consider the excellent advice of

GopherBaroque, Shaneesprit Lake-Effect Spot and Seaward22 before spending a lot on your project.

Good luck with whatever you decide!

[M.B. Naegle]

Thanks again for the advise and perspective. While my pride and naive tenacity thinks "it can't be THAT bad," I am on the lookout for better projects to start with. I know fixing up a leisure boat is rarely a profitable enterprise, but It's prudent to start with something of a known quantity that can at least have a hope of seeing the water again.

That said, I'm still happy to put work into a boat like this, provided it doesn't lead to my watery grave, lol. I don't mind if this boat takes 1-2 years to complete if it means I get a better understanding of their design and construction and I have the opportunity to 'do-it-myself'. At this point I'm not a sailor trying to get on the water somuch as someone who likes building/rebuilding things who wants to learn to sail.

Not counting time and labor, I'd consider this venture a win if I can get it safely floating again for $2000, as that seems to be the average market price of ready to go sailboats in my area of this size. Cheaper and they'll need SOMETHING.

I had quoted new sails, but to start I'm going to look for some good used ones and when(if) I wear those out I'll order new ones. Similarly, unless I find a screaming deal, I'm going to omit an outboard motor until a later date. Alot of stuff like new riging I figure can always reapply towards another boat, so really it's just the sails and hull materials to figure.

I did get some fiberglass, fiber body filler, and a batch of marine epoxy primer to start sealing the glass as it comes together, but I'll hold off on the paint till it's floating and I can't see any new leaks.

I'm ripping out the rotted portion of the interior lockers to I can wash all that junk out the back of the boat while it's open, but I'll hold on making the new drop in tubs until later.

[Rumrace]

Buy a healthy used motor as soon as you find it. They are getting rare. A 4stroke 4hp Yamaha long shaft you’re set.
I have a short shaft for my Dinghy approaching 20 years old running perfect. That’s the point boaters don’t part with small motors. They go with the boat and dinghy or end up on the next Dinghy.
Frankly at $1200.00 for Yamaha or Merc both are worth every cent. The Yamaha is 65 pounds. A cop clocked me at 23kph in a 10kph zone in a 8.5 Zodiac.
Good luck with the transom.