Bronze Seacock Handle - How to Buy?

[CaptTom]

OK, maybe a hammer isn't ALWAYS the best solution.

Yeah, I had a sticking seacock, and broke the handle. I've since gotten it freed, and should be able to salvage it with patience, cleaning and lubrication.

But I'm having trouble finding anyone who sells just the handle. Apparently they're pretty hard to break, or perhaps most people don't whale on them with a hammer. This was a pretty heavy-duty one, too. It would be very difficult to replace the whole seacock. I'd probably end up having to cut it out and re-glass.

Looking for suggestions.

[Orion Jim]

Make of seacock?

[dfelsent]

https://www.spartanmarine.com/all-pr...adapters-parts

[Knotical]

Originally Posted by CaptTom

OK, maybe a hammer isn't ALWAYS the best solution.

Yeah, I had a sticking seacock, and broke the handle. I've since gotten it freed, and should be able to salvage it with patience, cleaning and lubrication.

But I'm having trouble finding anyone who sells just the handle. Apparently they're pretty hard to break, or perhaps most people don't whale on them with a hammer. This was a pretty heavy-duty one, too. It would be very difficult to replace the whole seacock. I'd probably end up having to cut it out and re-glass.

Looking for suggestions.

How were you able to free the seacock after breaking the handle? Asking as I have a stuck seacock and already bent the handle by hammering it, I stopped trying afterwards. 🤦

[psk125]

A welder might be able to fix your problem in less than ten minutes. Even if you've recycled the old handle, a simple bronze rod would work.
https://www.thomasnet.com/maine/mig-...3609303-1.html

[CaptTom]

Originally Posted by Orion Jim

Make of seacock?

It says the name... right on the handle. Of course, I put it in a "safe" place when I broke it off last Spring

But, thanks to Google image search, I've identified it as a Perko. Going back tomorrow to measure it for the exact size, but I think I know which one.

Originally Posted by dfelsent

https://www.spartanmarine.com/all-pr...adapters-parts

Thanks, but that looks like it's just for Spartan brand valves. Did I miss something?

Originally Posted by Knotical

How were you able to free the seacock after breaking the handle? Asking as I have a stuck seacock and already bent the handle by hammering it, I stopped trying afterwards. 🤦

I have an exceptionally large pipe wrench which I was able to put over the remaining stub of the handle. It helps to have plenty of room for a cheater bar on the wrench, too. But of course, that's not likely on a boat.

I did find a Perko web page which lists the part numbers, and some of them are available at various places such as Fisheries Supply, but not the one I suspect I need. I'll go a bit deeper into the search results once I confirm the actual size.

[George DuBose]

Hammering on the handle of a seacock probably is not the best way to free up the seacock.

Wilcox/Crittenden seacocks only require loosening or removing the two nuts on the opposite side of the handle and then tapping on the threaded piece were the nuts were. I would use a wooden mallet, a plastic "slap" hammer or some other heavy but soft hammer so that the threads of the conical piece inside are not damaged.

Skylark's seacocks are almost 50 years old and probably were not serviced or even used by the last PO. I had to cut the flanges off of all the thru-hulls and then soak the seacocks in an auto parts washer overnight.

After disassembly, I wire-brushed them on a bench grinder and when my wife saw them installed, she asked me if they were new. I said, "No, I just had them gold plated to prevent corrosion."

Really had her going...

EU law states that seacocks must be changed every five years. LOL...

[Shrew]

Originally Posted by CaptTom

But I'm having trouble finding anyone who sells just the handle. Apparently they're pretty hard to break, or perhaps most people don't whale on them with a hammer.

More likely is that when you most people get to the point where you've broken the handle attempting to unseize the seacock, they simply replace the entire seacock. Imagine the same exact situation with water flooding in.

Hopefully you keep plugs tied to you seacocks {Where the heck is that hammer? }

I replaced a handle once by buying the entire seacock and removing the handle.

[sailormed]

"EU law states that seacocks must be changed every five years."
Yeah... but that must be in compliance with the stupid norm they have for seacock material. Then you have to every 5 years.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by sailormed

"EU law states that seacocks must be changed every five years."
Yeah... but that must be in compliance with the stupid norm they have for seacock material. Then you have to every 5 years.

At least display knowledge of the actual standard if you start to mention it , here’s the RYA commentary

“ The international standard specified in the Recreational Craft Directive for metallic sea-cocks and other through-hull fittings is ISO 9093-1:1998.

This requires sea-cocks and other through-hull fittings to be made of a material that does not display any defect within five years of service that would impair its watertight integrity.

This does not mean that components need only have a service life of five years but rather that components must function for at least five years without displaying any defect.

As far as the RYA is aware, since this standard was introduced in the late 1990s there has been no evidence of widespread failures of sea-cocks and through-hull fittings that met this standard.”

The standard does NOT require replacement at 5 years.

Note it’s not “ EU law “. It’s part of a directive on boat standards. This does not apply after the boat is then certified ( ie there is no requirement to maintain the boat to the code . Note caveats apply here )

The average med boat will quite happily have 10-15 years from seacocks even longer

[HopCar]

If you have the part number just ask your local marine store to special order it for you. Before I retired I ordered from Perko at least once a week. They are nice folks.

If your seacock is the newer ball valve style you just need to exercise it a couple of times a year to prevent it from sticking. If it’s the old style tapered plug, you should disassemble it each time you haul and clean and grease it.

[Bill Seal]

The raw water intake tapered seacock on my Formosa was stuck open with a broken-off handle, so after several attempts wirh a hammer and even a gear puller, I just (quickly) removed the strainer from on top of it, and stuck on a bronze ball valve. I'd be wary of using a large wrench or cheater bar, unless you like large holes below the water line.

[CaptTom]

Originally Posted by George DuBose

Hammering on the handle of a seacock probably is not the best way to free up the seacock.

I discovered that, thanks

Originally Posted by George DuBose

I said, "No, I just had them gold plated to prevent corrosion."

I was hoping to avoid going that far, but yes, it'll look like new when I'm done.

Originally Posted by Shrew

More likely is that when you most people get to the point where you've broken the handle attempting to unseize the seacock, they simply replace the entire seacock. Imagine the same exact situation with water flooding in.

Hopefully you keep plugs tied to you seacocks {Where the heck is that hammer? }

Yes, I do have a variety of plugs and other supplies handy. As of today the valve is moving much more easily, and I'm still optimistic it can be saved.

Originally Posted by HopCar

If you have the part number just ask your local marine store to special order it for you. Before I retired I ordered from Perko at least once a week. They are nice folks.

If your seacock is the newer ball valve style you just need to exercise it a couple of times a year to prevent it from sticking. If it’s the old style tapered plug, you should disassemble it each time you haul and clean and grease it.

Thanks, I took detailed measurements and am working on nailing down the part numbers now.

It's the ball style, and I do exercise them all at least a few times per year. This being the last one I did, and since I was in a hurry, I reached for the hammer probably before I should have.

Originally Posted by Bill Seal

The raw water intake tapered seacock on my Formosa was stuck open with a broken-off handle, so after several attempts wirh a hammer and even a gear puller, I just (quickly) removed the strainer from on top of it, and stuck on a bronze ball valve. I'd be wary of using a large wrench or cheater bar, unless you like large holes below the water line.

I actually considered a second ball valve in line, in case this ever happens again and I can't close it in an emergency. It's an oversized seacock which I believe was originally installed for an engine before the PO repowered. I re-purposed it as an air conditioner intake and so I already had a reducer on it.

[duetto]

I just went through this. New to me sailboat with seized WC bronze seacock and PO had broken the handle.

Took off the 2 nuts and started tapping (wasn't a lot of clearance to do more than patient tapping.) Wasn't budging. With boat out of water I found the thru hull opening in the hull and was able to scrape away some hard growth, spray some penetrant and then tapped some more from the inside and it came apart.

Found a NOS WC handle on ebay. Lapping compound and grease from Spartan. Lap, grease, put back together and exercise frequently. I do not intend to let this seize up on my watch.

[Bcrescenzo]