Best Way to Tent for Repairs

[BlueChicago]

I will be working on removing the teak deck this winter (as in Chicago winter).

I was wondering if anyone had some tried and true suggestions on how to tent the boat from the toe rail up, as the bottom of the boat needs to be left exposed after getting peeled in the coming weeks.

The mast will be pulled, and I will need to get in and out of the boat frequently. Additionally, yard has a "nothing touches the ground" policy, so I have to keep it tidy while I work.

I have some ideas how I might approach this, but was wondering what others have done.

Thanks

-BC

[hellosailor]

Usually, you'd make a custom spaceframe out of lumber or PVC pipe. Metal conduit if you plan to use it every winter. One long run down the centerline of the deck, cross pieces out to the rail, and verticals tied into the stanchions. Tie (wrap and frap) every point where the supports cross over each other. Or use tywraps snugged really tight.

Then just cover that with traps or the rolled plastic sold as greenhouse skin, and tie it down to your toerail, if you've got a slotted aluminum one. I wouldn't tape it down, since tape tends to become permanent after it ages for a while. In the worse case, run a line along the toe rail and tie down into that.

Plenty of web sites with pictures of boats in winter covers like that. Chicago winter, lake breeze...you can't build it too strong.

[UNCIVILIZED]

And the reason(s) you think you need the tenting is? Plus are you wanting to be able to reuse the materials come next year, or toss them come spring, when it's commissioning time.

[keepondancin]

If you build a frame, see what the yard would charge to shrink wrap the boat. A dealer friend of mine had a boat shrink wrapped with clear material. Problem he had was mildew in the spring, before the shrink wrap was removed. You could consider some vents put in and find a way to open and close them off. Shrink wrap won't flap around in the winter wind like just plastic tied and taped will.
If you did your own frame, you can construct it so it is high enough at the toerail so you can work not totally hunched up.

[Bill O]

Have done framing and tenting on several boats either to make it more livable for winters or to do construction. The biggest concern besides wind is to handle the snow load, especially with lots of heavy wet snow.

Some years back, when living on my 40' boat in Wash. DC., for several winters I constructed the frame using 2x2 wood, some shed plastic fittings and then shrink wrapped everything with clear 7 mil plastic. I knew someone who did shrink wrapping for a living and it was economical to do the boat. It survived many NEsters with some heavy dumps of snow which shut down DC.

Last year I made a frame for our larger boat so it would be warmer to do construction work in the interior. Similarly, I made a much larger frame with 2x2s, and the same shed plastic fittings (used years before), but used a different plastic called Dura-Skrim. Would have liked to us the shrink wrap again but the cost was prohibitive and was difficult to find the clear. The fibre reinforced Dura-Skrim held up extremely well for the winter and into the spring until we took the structure down. We didn't have any heavy snow storms last year like in DC, but we did have plenty of wind to test the structure.

As mentioned the framing can be made of metal, PVC or wood. The 2x2s are inexpensive, easy to work with and found at the local hardware store. The base of the frame was 2x4s and placed up on the cap rail to keep it off the deck. Not certain they make the plastic connectors any more but they do have other types to make greenhouse/sheds that could work.

To get the snow off the roof you may want to construct a very long poled device to remove the snow w/o damaging the plastic. I used a long PVC section with a push broom on the end. If the snow is light it can be gently tapped off from the inside get the snow to slide off.

Bill O.

[Cheechako]

pvc pipe with a blue tarp works well. you dont have to glue the fittings. buy lots of tees,

[SecondBase]

Also handy is shrink wrap tape. Better holding than duct tape and much longer sit times before residue adheres.

Shrink wrap tape also useful for hurricane prep and any sort of temporary fix. In white any temporary uses disappear into the typically white background.

https://m.uline.com/h5/r/www.uline.c...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[deblen]

Google: Stimson Marine building
Facebook: same.
Use shrink wrap or greenhouse plastic to cover the frame.
The frame is even cheaper but stronger than 2x2 or plastic pipe.
Framing is 1x3 "ceiling strapping" with short pieces of 2x3 spacers,which form a very strong truss. / Len

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5o6KUs7AVwI&t=220s

[barnakiel]

I have tented two boats I worked on in odd climates. I used wooden slats and strong plastic sheets. I also made ventilation hatches in the side (vertical) surfaces.

As others noted, making the roof area steep or rounded is a must because otherwise rain or snow will overpower the design.

My only other comment is if you work under it, make it tall enough that you can stand where you work. The first tent I built was too low and I hated it. The second was full standing height. Much better.

Cheers,
b.

[CaptTom]

Some hints learned over many Maine winters...

Steep sides, sharp peak. You want the snow and ice (and especially, a mixture of those) to slide off.

No horizontal framing that can create even a small "pool" of water. The pool grows, dragging more tarp or shrink-wrap into it until it's all gone down the hole.

The surface (tarp or shrink-wrap) should be as tight as possible. This keeps the snow and rain sliding off, and keeps the wind from whipping it against the frame. For tarps, elastic shock cord works well, as do lots of gallon jugs 3/4 full of water, one hung from each grommet.

No sharp edges on the framing. Use duct tape and old rags to cover any corners or protruding hardware. Even protruding snaps can puncture or tear the cover.

Absolutely NO loose corners or edges. Once the wind gets behind a corner or edge and things start flapping, it's all over.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Shrink wrap + Awlgrip = Bad Juju. It's an easy way to destroy a perfect paintjob.

[SV Siren]

I currently have my deck under an enclosure, and this has worked really well. I plan on replacing the caprail, or at least scarfing in new wood and painting it, so I was not worried about screwing into it. It has withstood winds up to 70 mph, with no issue, and no problems under snow load. It took a ton of time, but I can walk inside it with no problems. If you don't want to screw into your caprail, you might create c shaped pieces to rest on the rail, and then tie it down under the hull to keep it from moving under load or windy conditions. I would then ad a wood strip outside the hull/deck joint to add wiggle wire directly to that wood perimeter trim.

I added wiring stiffeners with home depot turnbuckles to tighten the frame from for and aft, as well as cross movement. Once it was shrink wrapped it really stiffened up.

Around the perimeter I used greenhouse wiggle wire and channel to hold the shrink wrap inn place around the railing, it works amazingly well, and is easy to use. https://www.amazon.com/Spring-Wire-L...e+wire+channel

Under construction:
[IMG][/url[/IMG]

After shrink wrapping:
Untitled by [/IMG]

From the outside:
[IMG]Untitled by [/IMG]

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Bill O

Have done framing and tenting on several boats either to make it more livable for winters or to do construction. The biggest concern besides wind is to handle the snow load, especially with lots of heavy wet snow.

Some years back, when living on my 40' boat in Wash. DC., for several winters I constructed the frame using 2x2 wood, some shed plastic fittings and then shrink wrapped everything with clear 7 mil plastic. I knew someone who did shrink wrapping for a living and it was economical to do the boat. It survived many NEsters with some heavy dumps of snow which shut down DC.

Last year I made a frame for our larger boat so it would be warmer to do construction work in the interior. Similarly, I made a much larger frame with 2x2s, and the same shed plastic fittings (used years before), but used a different plastic called Dura-Skrim. Would have liked to us the shrink wrap again but the cost was prohibitive and was difficult to find the clear. The fibre reinforced Dura-Skrim held up extremely well for the winter and into the spring until we took the structure down. We didn't have any heavy snow storms last year like in DC, but we did have plenty of wind to test the structure.

As mentioned the framing can be made of metal, PVC or wood. The 2x2s are inexpensive, easy to work with and found at the local hardware store. The base of the frame was 2x4s and placed up on the cap rail to keep it off the deck. Not certain they make the plastic connectors any more but they do have other types to make greenhouse/sheds that could work.

To get the snow off the roof you may want to construct a very long poled device to remove the snow w/o damaging the plastic. I used a long PVC section with a push broom on the end. If the snow is light it can be gently tapped off from the inside get the snow to slide off.

Bill O.

Looks good! Did the tomatoes come out good?

[BlueChicago]

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

And the reason(s) you think you need the tenting is? Plus are you wanting to be able to reuse the materials come next year, or toss them come spring, when it's commissioning time.

I want to work under the tent and stay somewhat protected. I don't want water and ice to hit the decks messing up what I am working on - whether filling, glassing, fairing, gelcoating, etc.

I am also hoping that a little greenhouse effect will take the edge off the colder days when the sun is out.

I may want it to last two seasons, depending on what I can accomplish and whether I can get indoor storage in the coming years.

Thanks

-BC

[BlueChicago]

Originally Posted by SV Siren

I currently have my deck under an enclosure, and this has worked really well. I plan on replacing the caprail, or at least scarfing in new wood and painting it, so I was not worried about screwing into it. It has withstood winds up to 70 mph, with no issue, and no problems under snow load. It took a ton of time, but I can walk inside it with no problems. If you don't want to screw into your caprail, you might create c shaped pieces to rest on the rail, and then tie it down under the hull to keep it from moving under load or windy conditions. I would then ad a wood strip outside the hull/deck joint to add wiggle wire directly to that wood perimeter trim.

I added wiring stiffeners with home depot turnbuckles to tighten the frame from for and aft, as well as cross movement. Once it was shrink wrapped it really stiffened up.

Around the perimeter I used greenhouse wiggle wire and channel to hold the shrink wrap inn place around the railing, it works amazingly well, and is easy to use. https://www.amazon.com/Spring-Wire-L...e+wire+channel

Nice enclosure. I like the idea of slotting the pipe so it straddles the toe rail and then just lashing it down to the rail.

Thanks

-BC