Awlwood thining

[cabo_sailor]

As part of an extensive = expensive refit I am refinishing all the bright work. Those of you familiar with Cabo Rico sailboats know that is not a trivial job. After seeing another boat that applied Awlwood, I’ve decided to give it shot.
I’ve been doing bright work for over 25 years but I’m finding Awlwood a bit puzzling. I bought a qt of clear primer and a qt of gloss. First thing I noticed is that in a fresh can both have the look and consistency of water. The local ship carpenter recommended applying the primer with a rag like stain. OK but now that the cans have been opened for a week or so the contents are getting way too thick.
I can’t throw out half used cans, not for that price.
I’ve bought a can of brushing reducer but I don’t know if that will do the trick or if I should use something like acetone.

Anyone with some hands on experience? I’m probably going to need a total of a gallon of the gloss $$$$$

[Alan Mighty]

Originally Posted by cabo_sailor

I’ve been doing bright work for over 25 years but I’m finding Awlwood a bit puzzling. I bought a qt of clear primer and a qt of gloss. First thing I noticed is that in a fresh can both have the look and consistency of water. The local ship carpenter recommended applying the primer with a rag like stain. OK but now that the cans have been opened for a week or so the contents are getting way too thick.

<snip>

I’m probably going to need a total of a gallon of the gloss $$$$$

Nothing wrong with using a cloth to apply the primer.

I'd not be leaving the cans open to the air.

As for the gloss, I recommend 8 days of application.

On each of those eight days you apply once in the morning and once in the afternoon. You call that (one AM application + one PM application) 'one coat'.

No need to sand between AM application and PM application.

You aim for 8 coats, minimum. The primer stops UV damage to the timber and the timber/coating interface. The 8 or more coats of gloss are there for protection (from mechanical damage and water penetration) and optics.

If your brightwork includes covering a scarph or other joint, I suggest you dinnae waste ya time putting Awlwood (or any two pack varnish) over the joint. Wood works (thermal expansion, mechanical stresses) at joints and indubitably will crack the inflexible coats of Awlwood or most any two pack varnish. So chamfer the joint and run a line of black caulking sealant along it.

[Painted Skies]

I've been using the Awlwood system for the past three years. The clear primer (as opposed to the yellow and red primers) should be applied with a brush and allowed to dry in place. The instructions say that it should need no longer than 24 hours to dry but I've found that it can take up to 48 hours to reach the state of un-tackiness before the first coat of gloss needs to be applied. You can definitely use the brushing reducer to thin the gloss coats if needed - be sure to replace the thin metal cap that seals the can after each pour into your working container. If you do not, the gloss stuff tends to set up and will actually harden in the can (the humidity in the air is all it takes to start the curing process). I have used up to 30% brushing thinner without any detrimental effects on the finish coats. Good luck!

Cheers, Katherine

[billknny]

Originally Posted by cabo_sailor

As part of an extensive = expensive refit I am refinishing all the bright work. Those of you familiar with Cabo Rico sailboats know that is not a trivial job. After seeing another boat that applied Awlwood, I’ve decided to give it shot.
I’ve been doing bright work for over 25 years but I’m finding Awlwood a bit puzzling. I bought a qt of clear primer and a qt of gloss. First thing I noticed is that in a fresh can both have the look and consistency of water. The local ship carpenter recommended applying the primer with a rag like stain. OK but now that the cans have been opened for a week or so the contents are getting way too thick.
I can’t throw out half used cans, not for that price.
I’ve bought a can of brushing reducer but I don’t know if that will do the trick or if I should use something like acetone.

Anyone with some hands on experience? I’m probably going to need a total of a gallon of the gloss $$$$$

AwlWood is not a traditional varnish. It does not cure by evaporating solvent, but rather by reacting with moisture in the air. If the cans you opened a week ago are "way too thick" they have partially polymerized from contact with moisture and are worthless. Thinning will not help.

You have read the technical data sheets about keeping the containers closed and away from atmospheric moisture?

This is a great product, but not at all suitable for someone not compulsive about rigorously following directions. There is very little room for error, and none at all for improvisation.

[Davo1404]

Originally Posted by billknny

AwlWood is not a traditional varnish. It does not cure by evaporating solvent, but rather by reacting with moisture in the air. If the cans you opened a week ago are "way too thick" they have partially polymerized from contact with moisture and are worthless. Thinning will not help.

You have read the technical data sheets about keeping the containers closed and away from atmospheric moisture?

This is a great product, but not at all suitable for someone not compulsive about rigorously following directions. There is very little room for error, and none at all for improvisation.

Exactly right. I have been using it for 10 years now. After trying every other product I have found this New Zealand made stuff the best. It dries to a clear film like a glad wrap, as in food wrapping. The wood needs to be completely sanded back & I now use the yellow primer, apparently more uv protection & brings out the grain more. Brush on the primer, then leave overnight, light sand before the first of 10 top coats. In Queensland I can get 3 coats on in the day. Light sand the next day before another 3.
Once the can starts to thicken then it is had it.
CANNOT BE THINNED. Need to quickly decant some, then the lid back on.

[Davo1404]

Lots of Awlwood,

[GordMay]

Excerpted from the Awlwood instructions:
For brushing, thin up to 10% by volume with T0201 Brushing Reducer, if necessary.
For spraying, thin up to 10% by volume with T0202 Spray Reducer
To extend the wet edge and increase workability in these conditions thinning up to 10% with Awlwood MA Brushing Reducer will help.
Do not use universal thinners.
Do not add any universal or alcohol-based thinners or reducers to Awlwood MA Clear Gloss.

[Davo1404]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Excerpted from the Awlwood instructions:
For brushing, thin up to 10% by volume with T0201 Brushing Reducer, if necessary.
For spraying, thin up to 10% by volume with T0202 Spray Reducer
To extend the wet edge and increase workability in these conditions thinning up to 10% with Awlwood MA Brushing Reducer will help.
Do not use universal thinners.
Do not add any universal or alcohol-based thinners or reducers to Awlwood MA Clear Gloss.

You are right. What I was meaning was that once it starts to get thick & lumpy in the tin as the op was saying. Then it is beyond thinning. The secret to making it last in the tin is to replace the lid quickly. Also the brushing reducer is very expensive.
Cheers

[randomrun]

Keep refrigerated. It will last much longer.