Awlgrip - Where did I go wrong?

[Wind River]

I do intend to use the 545 primer, if for nothing else, I can say I did everything by the book. If it provides greater adhesion for the paint, bonus for me. I'm only out some time and money. I really don't want to do this again anytime in the near future.

One thing I forgot to mention. I asked the Awlgrip rep if the converter goes bad and he told me the exact opposite my paint salesman told me. The converter is good for about a year once opened, the paint stays good for much longer (although no time frame was given). He said if you want to make it last longer in storage, displace the air in the opened can with nitrogen and seal it really good. This a little more effort than I would like to do, so a new can of converter is on the list too and hopefully it will be gone when this project is done.

Thanks again for everyone that contributed here.

[Three Sisters]

Originally Posted by Wind River

Thanks Nick,
Apparently a remedial reading comprehension class should be in my future. Or at least have only one page of Awlgrip information opened on my computer at one time so I don't confuse myself (and others) with what I think I am reading.

For those that missed it, the link I gave sighting Awlgrips manual stating that 36-60 grit should be used for top coat prep was actually for the primer on raw resin (which is what I have) not for top coat. I thought it made sense to do this with primer and stated so, but I believed I was reading from the top coat section when I was actually reading from the primer section.

I think I should coin a new acronym. Instead of RTFM it can be RAUTFM (Read And Understand The F***ing Manual)

I wanted this thread to be helpful to myself and others so this is what I have learned from this little endeavor.
There may be shortcuts or substitutes when using Awlgrip but unless you have the experience to know what they are, RAUTFM and do/use what it says. Substitute materials and processes at you own risk.

Thanks everyone for your input. I know the answer to my original question now.

Those diesel fumes can be hell Poor thing


Was curious if this coating can be clear coated with products such as offered by SPI ?

[Wind River]

Originally Posted by Three Sisters

Those diesel fumes can be hell Poor thing


Was curious if this coating can be clear coated with products such as offered by SPI ?

I am certainly not the one to be giving advice here, but this is from Awlgrips Application Guide:

"Do not clear coat over whites or pastels with Awlgrip, Awlcraft 2000 or Awlgrip HS systems. Each system has a clear available. For Awlgrip it is G3005 High Gloss Clear; for Awlgrip HS it is N3100 High Gloss Clear; for Awlcraft 2000 and Awlcraft SE it is F3029 High Gloss Clear. However, these products should only be used over dark colors or Awlcraft SE basecoats."

I don't know what coatings SPI sells, but I would take this from the guide:
"Do not clear coat......" and stop right there.

[Three Sisters]

Originally Posted by Wind River

I am certainly not the one to be giving advice here, but this is from Awlgrips Application Guide:

"Do not clear coat over whites or pastels with Awlgrip, Awlcraft 2000 or Awlgrip HS systems. Each system has a clear available. For Awlgrip it is G3005 High Gloss Clear; for Awlgrip HS it is N3100 High Gloss Clear; for Awlcraft 2000 and Awlcraft SE it is F3029 High Gloss Clear. However, these products should only be used over dark colors or Awlcraft SE basecoats."

I don't know what coatings SPI sells, but I would take this from the guide:
"Do not clear coat......" and stop right there.

AhhHaa. They make their own. A one stop shop paint system.

Surely the finished product will be nothing short of outstanding.

[s/v Jedi]

Here's another tip: I often see people skip the induction time. Don't; it is specified for every product in the application guide

[sean9c]

Awlgrip = 15 minutes

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Here's another tip: I often see people skip the induction time. Don't; it is specified for every product in the application guide

[Training Wheels]

Originally Posted by sean9c

Awlgrip = 15 minutes

For 545 primer, not for topcoats.


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[Wind River]

....and mix again after induction time.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[Wind River]

After following all of the proper prepping procedures I had what I thought was a close to a flawless roll and tip job as possible on this bowsprit. All the multiple angles made it challenging and I have only a few sags in the paint.

To recap, I did three coats of West Epoxy, three coats of 545 Awlgrip Epoxy Primer and three coats of Alwgrip Top Coat. I sanded as fair as possible between all coat at the risk of sanding through each coating which is why I did as many coats as I did with each.
After using the Awlprep T0115 Cleaner/Degreaser and the 545 primer I had no more fish eye issues.

I finished this coating process a little over a month ago, so according to Awlgrips info on their topcoats, it should be done with its final phase of drying/curing.

Now I noticed today, in some of the corners where the spreaders (for lack of a better word) are attached to the bowsprit there is a hairline crack in the paint.

Should I be worried about this? If so what should I do with it?

I have too much time and money in this to just say, oh well, let's see what happens. After giving it some thought, I assume the bowsprit will have some flex to it in use and this may become even worse.

Did I choose the wrong paint for this application?

[MarkSF]

What is the bowsprit made of?

[Wind River]

It looked like Douglas Fir, but the spreaders appeared to be a different type. I am no expert on wood identification though.

This is a picture of of it before coating. There is still a little bit of old paint there in the area of the crack but it is the same on all spreaders and not all have this crack.

[sean9c]

You have movement between the 2 pieces, doesn't matter what paint or prep you do if you have movement it will crack. Easiest fix now is to carefully reef out a v-groove in that corner and then use a flexible caulk that matches your paint color in the groove.
Only other option was to reinforce that corner with fiberglass cloth before you started the fairing/painting stage.

[Wind River]

Originally Posted by sean9c

You have movement between the 2 pieces, doesn't matter what paint or prep you do if you have movement it will crack. Easiest fix now is to carefully reef out a v-groove in that corner and then use a flexible caulk that matches your paint color in the groove.
Only other option was to reinforce that corner with fiberglass cloth before you started the fairing/painting stage.

Can I just sand the paint a little in the corner and apply a bead of caulk there? Seems like reefing through all these layers of coatings might allow for even more of a chance of water penetration.

4200UV?, Sikaflex?.... anything you would recommend?

[neilpride]

Sikaflex UV , I think is the 292 I'm not sure...

[Three Sisters]

That's beautiful. Like a piece of artwork