Yanmar water separator filter 4230-0000

[a64pilot]

Good thing about spares is you can get going again very quickly with little pain. Last year I needed a water pump spare, we had water pressure back within minutes and later I fixed the pump I removed, this year the propane solenoid went out. Had the spare on in time for her to finish cooking Breakfast. Without a spare I would have had to plumb around not having a solenoid and had to turn off the tank manually. Putting on the spare was a whole lot easier.
You could remove a clogged filter depending on how a filter was designed or plumb around one if you really needed to, there is a secondary filter, but I would never want to do that. Much better to put in a spare.
Always carry coolant and enough engine oil for an oil change and filter, it’s rare for a filter o-ring to blow but it does happen, and if you bust a coolant hose, it’s better to put coolant back in than drinking water.
I installed a remote mount oil filter, the o-ring on the adapter blew out, replaced it and took off again, it blew out again. That was all the extra oil I had at the time and needless to say that remote oil filter kit was thrown away. We also used up our whole supply of paper towels too.

[Lemsteraak]

You are getting some good advice here. The fuel system is a whole system, but the primary filter is just that, pretty important. Each filter in the system gets finer and finer and each protects the other.

I use this big elaborate three stage filter funnel when I take on fuel. I don't know how many people have told me that this is ridiculous and overkill as the vendor's pump has a filter. May be, but I'm amazed at how quickly it clogs up with "clean" fuel. Yes, the primary filter can catch all that but at $25 a pop, why not protect this filter?

I have the same little Yanmar that you do and I'd really recommend spending some time learning how to bleed your fuel system. It is really easy to figure out in port with a beer in your hand, not so easy underway when a little queasy.

[Scubaseas]

You might want to consider filling the filter housing with https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/134323...RoCXVMQAvD_BwE Liqui Moly Diesel Purge when putting a new filter in. Be careful to wear gloves, it'll burn a hole in you or at least the old stuff used to. Some reasons why to consider this. 1) makes bleeding out the fuel system a lot easier. if you fill the cup and filter to the top and run the engine at mid speed for two minutes or more you may not have to bleed it out at all. 2) It's a really good cleaner for both injectors and combustion chamber and prechamber. 3) it's a nice can to use to fill with diesel or purge fluid to refill either of the filter bowls when changing filters.


LiquiMoly also makes a very good cetane booster. More power, less smoke easier starts.

[davenrino]

I have the same Yanmar filter as the OP. I use this-


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



It also comes in a 10 and 2 micron version. I always carry a couple spares along with 2 fuel filters.

[dennismenace111]

Using the part number you provide, it looks alot like the Racor 200 series filter. You might get lucky and a racor spin on element would work. The link below is for a similar Racor.

You might call Racor.

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-rsvmdxl/images/stencil/500x659/products/35601/64022/Diesel-Fuel-Filter-Spin-On_230R10_1000x1000_zm__90452.1502806000.jpg?c=2

[sailormed]

It looks a lot like my Racor, check your filter support if it is identical. The Racor R20P is the filter I use and I think it wil fit yours as well.

[Dave Lochner]

Yanmar filters are rebranded Racor filters. The model numbers will be similar. Take some measurement and then pick the one that fits.

[RodrigoDC]

Awesome advice. Thank you all. I have purchase the Rancor R20T (10 micron) and will report back if it fits. The diameters are correct, but the I'm hoping my case uses imperial threat measurements, instead of metric. I'll report back when I install it and see if this is the correct replacement.


Interesting stuff on the Fuel System Cleaner. I think I'll try it while I'm at it. Thank you!



Once I see the new filter fits, I will include plenty of spares, as I have of the basic things (oil, antifreeze, belts, oil filters, secondary fuel filters, impellers, air filters and respective gaskets and o-rings.)

[Dalestr]

Hi RodrigoDC,
I had the same filter come with a Yanmar engine purchase; we didn't use that on our installation as it was too big for the space. The filter assy is a rebranding of a Racor 200 series with an integral primer pump, which is a critical item as otherwise you may need a primer bulb or a gravity feed to bleed this primary filter. If the pump shaft has a white knob then it is an early version, before April 2007. They made some changes to the pump for greater travel and flow and those have black knobs. They offer a tech bulletin and parts to retrofit to earlier mounting heads. If keeping your unit I'd advise implementing the retrofit. See here:
https://www.parker.com/parkerimages/Racor/7697%20(200%20Series%20Hand%20Primer%20Pump%20Chan ges).pdf
The Racor match is likely the 230R2 model but you can compare dimensions . If you are replacing it, smallest units are plenty large for your needs. The sequence for element filtration is S=2, T=10, P=30 microns, STP. I would go for the 10 micron element but the 2 micron can be used giving the secondary filter a very long life.
Some don't like the spin-on Racors very much as they can require real torque to loosen using a strap wrench (or the Racor molded wrench). The mounting must be strong (i.e. with metal backing plates if on 1/2" plywood) and you need space to swing that wrench.

[Dave Lochner]

The Product info is here and the code for the filter model is at the top of the page.

A 230R10 is a Series 20, 30 GPM, 10 micron filter.

https://www.parker.com/Literature/EM...200-Series.pdf

The other link to the pump change doesn't seem to work. Is there a better link?

[Dalestr]

Sorry the link doesn't work. Try this link that I know works. https://www.parker.com/literature/Ra...200_Series.pdf
There is a spiffy color brochure too comparing the two pump versions but basically the same as the last page of this one.
I was incorrect about 'retrofitting' the new pump to an old head unit. It seems one must purchase the new head which costs about $120, about $50 less than a whole new filter assy. While it is a better pump the price is stiff. Another consideration might be changing to a new metal bowl filter instead of plastic -- to be UL/ABYC compliant to satisfy an overzealous insurance company.

[OloteleMtn]

It looked like you could order a new head assembly, or just the new pump kit and retrofit the old head....having disassembled them before, that makes sense to me. Good reference, as I need to order some parts for mine to repair my backup.

[MerMike]

Just a note to avoid using the 2 micron filters in older Yanmars. These filters are for common rail diesels. The 2 micron will damage your lift pump.

This is a case where more filtering is not better.

[OloteleMtn]

MerMike, can you explain your info please? As long as flow is not restricted, what would the issue be?

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by OloteleMtn

MerMike, can you explain your info please? As long as flow is not restricted, what would the issue be?

Flow is restricted, I can’t quote chapter and verse, but Yanmar recommends against fine primary filters, assumption is restriction.
Again can’t quote chapter and verse on rating of the Yanmar final filter, but have seen it quoted between 6 and 10 microns.
The Achilles heel of common rail is dirty fuel, extremely small orifices, extremely high pressure, and dirt can literally cut a nozzle orifice similar to how a water jet cuts steel.