Yanmar 2GM20C Starter Motor

[sartorst]

Please stop supporting that cheap Chinese junk that is being sold to us !!!! If you cheap out for a starter or alternator that should cost 250+ you are buying yourself a problem as has been proven many times it will cost you more in the long run than what you have saved !
As has been stated earlier you most likely did not need a starter to begin with, now you have a POS starter that has damaged the flywheel and a starter that the OEM or rebuilder will not take as a core because it is so cheaply build which is going to cost you more ! OH I hear it all the time " I can buy three of these for the price of the OEM " well you did and you get to buy a new flywheel also Sorry for the rant ! Pay the price to support someone that Knows how to build your starter properly

[Acushla]

We have eventually received a price for the OEM starter from the Yanmar dealer at NZD$1200 with only a six month parts warranty for this money. Although requested from them the mechanical aspects of this motor they chosen to ignore this request. Specifically requested was (a) is this a direct drive motor (b) what is the pinion diameter and tooth pitch. We have to assume that this is a direct drive motor, 29.1 mm pinion dia and 9 teeth pinion.

[Symphony]

Originally Posted by Acushla

We have eventually received a price for the OEM starter from the Yanmar dealer at NZD$1200 with only a six month parts warranty

:face palm:

my goodness. How could that be justifiable?
sorry to hear this news.

[four winds]

Almost unbelievable.

That general design probably dates back a hundred years. That specific design probably dates back to the 1960's.

In the days before worldwide manufacturing and aftermarket parts, starters and alternators were expensive. Rebuilding was the normal course of action and many people made a living doing just that.

When I was a kid hot rodder I did all my friends starters, alternators, and carburators. It ain't that hard.

I doubt the "you get what you pay for" croud would even have trouble justifying this price gouging.

You don't need the gear reduction model on your engine and I'm not sure that is even the original type for your engine. No doubt if it were me I'd give a direct drive aftermarket starter a chance.

The API brand is well made. Or try that overpriced ACS model if you think spending more money means anything.

[japarker11]

All the advice on the installation alignment and quality of the replacement starters may be spot on. However, the structural calamities experienced ( ring gear failure, bearing support castings) combined with the timeline and type of use or lack thereof would have me looking at a partial hydro-lock from either raw water intrusion or fuel bleed from a leaky injector(s). The fact that a decade of use was nearly flawless would point to a change in the torque required for starting.

From experience, starting against a partial hydro-lock on a 3 cylinder Perkins twisted and bent the starter mounting plate. A good marine diesel mechanic would have pulled the injectors when he saw any of these types of failures.

This won't take you off the hook for getting the best, most reliable starting components available, a must for single screw vessels.

Things to check:

Operational changes in the raw water seacock.
Location and operation of a vented loop.
Location and operation of the fuel shut-off valve.

Changes in the types of waters and sea states the vessel encounters.

Fuel tank and fuel filter housing levels relative injector elevations.

Water lift muffler condition.

Any one of these may eventually cost way more than starter components, even at Yanmar pricing.










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[Acushla]

Some very useful information flow on this issue has been coming through which is noted and some of the actions suggested taken. Namely while waiting on the supplier to respond on the warranty issue have been able to get hold of a suitable 12dcv relay to modify the solenoid initiation supply from the start push button which will resolve any volt drop on this circuit, courtesy of Kiltym. Many Thanks

[four winds]

Acushla, japarker's comments are worth serious consideration.

You have had multiple starter failers in a short time span. Something may be a contributing factor beyond the quaility of the starter itself.

There are an untold number of the aftermarket starters in use. And for a single boater to experience multiple failures with different starters is going against the odds it would seem to me.

And I would think failures would more likely be bushing wear, brushes wearing quickly, and solenoid failures. Not mechanical failures of the housing.

[Acushla]

Based on the information provided by the forum I have ordered the Masco starter which is due in the country today and also got the hardware to carry out the relay mod to the starter circuit. Once installed some time next week I will give an update on the outcome.

[Acushla]

The Masco starter arrived on Friday and looked a bit more substantial than those that had been fitted previously and had broken. This was fitted on Sat together with the starter solenoid wiring relay mod and the system bled ready for a start.
The engine was turned over several times decompressed to get the fuel flow going then started.
All good and now ready for our summer cruise programme. Thanks for all the advice.

[Symphony]

fingers crossed. I know there's nothing so bothersome as having had a great sail, you want to wrap it up and charge it up, and wondering if your engine is going to start

[four winds]

Acushla, thanks for the follow up.

Gives the thread added value when searched in the archive.

[Dulcesuenos]

You purchased the gear reduction starter w out the nosecone right?

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[four winds]

I was wondering which model as well.

Not sure why a gear reduction type would be desired for a 2gm. I know it's high torque, but adds unneeded complexity in my opinion. And if it has plastic planetary gears, well,... whiskey tango foxtrot.

My 3gm uses the same starter as a 2gm. If I open one compression release the starter spins the engine much faster than normal. I assume a 2gm is easier to spin than a 3gm and believe the original starter type (in good condition) is well suited for the task.

BTW, I notice the Masco website shows new original Hitachi starters for some models. First source I've seen for OEM outside of the dealer network.

[Acushla]

Dulcesuenos
Yes it was the gear reduction starter without the nose casting which is a pretty substantial starter motor. The weight and shape of it indicated that it was a metal gear reduction not the plastic planetary gears of the Chinese starters that had failed.

[Tricolor]

Originally Posted by four winds

I was wondering which model as well.

Not sure why a gear reduction type would be desired for a 2gm. I know it's high torque, but adds unneeded complexity in my opinion. And if it has plastic planetary gears, well,... whiskey tango foxtrot.

My 3gm uses the same starter as a 2gm. If I open one compression release the starter spins the engine much faster than normal. I assume a 2gm is easier to spin than a 3gm and believe the original starter type (in good condition) is well suited for the task.

BTW, I notice the Masco website shows new original Hitachi starters for some models. First source I've seen for OEM outside of the dealer network.

These Yanmar engines all use the same starter

Known under these part numbers;

S114-303A
128170-77010
S114-303

Yanmar engines;

YANMAR MARINE 1GM 1980-1984
YANMAR MARINE 1GM10 1984-
YANMAR MARINE 2GM 1980-1984
YANMAR MARINE 2GM-F 1980-1984
YANMAR MARINE 2GM20 1984-
YANMAR MARINE 2GM20-F 1984-
YANMAR MARINE 3GM 1980-1984
YANMAR MARINE 3GM-F 1980-1984
YANMAR MARINE 3GM30 1984-
YANMAR MARINE 3GM30-F 1984-