Which new engine for repower

[NorthPacific]

For those that know the rough prices on the west coast of North America what $ would I be looking at to replace a Volvo MD 17C. I have a 1984 Dufour 35 heavily ladened for offshore cruising. Yanmar and Beta.

I understand about options etc just so that I have a ball park figure.
Also am I correct in thinking that my lovely flexafold folding prop is useless as well.

[NCboatrx]

Originally Posted by NorthPacific

For those that know the rough prices on the west coast of North America what $ would I be looking at to replace a Volvo MD 17C. I have a 1984 Dufour 35 heavily ladened for offshore cruising. Yanmar and Beta.

I understand about options etc just so that I have a ball park figure.
Also am I correct in thinking that my lovely flexafold folding prop is useless as well.

Speak to your local dealers about engines in the 35 to 40 HP range for pricing.
As far as your propeller is concerned, you are correct as the old Volvo required a LH propeller whereas the new engine (Beta or Yanmar) will require a RH propeller.

[CarinaPDX]

Replacing the prop is just the beginning. The more powerful engine will probably require an upgrade from 1" to 1-1/4" shaft, which will probably require a new stern tube (and cutlass bearing, and stuffing box/dripless seal). You may also need to upgrade the seawater cooling system for higher flow. The exhaust system will be larger (the Yanmars have 3" exhausts, which is one reason I didn't go with them). The fuel system will probably need to be upgraded from 1/4" to 3/8" hoses. Volvo requires an exhaust fan to their standards and I would expect others as well. You may have to change your controls/morse cables. Changing the bedlogs is to be expected, and may require custom engine mounts.

Depending on how much needs to be changed the material costs could run in the $15k-20k range. If you are not going to do it yourself the labor could be substantially more. [edit: above the material price, not greater than the materials - although I wouldn't be surprised if it was at least half again.]

I am a bit stalled on my installation of a 38hp Volvo, from an 18hp Sabb. It has turned into a very large job, with implications for the 12VDC system as well as the items above. Trust me, this is neither trivial nor cheap...

Greg

[robert sailor]

Originally Posted by NorthPacific

For those that know the rough prices on the west coast of North America what $ would I be looking at to replace a Volvo MD 17C. I have a 1984 Dufour 35 heavily ladened for offshore cruising. Yanmar and Beta.

I understand about options etc just so that I have a ball park figure.
Also am I correct in thinking that my lovely flexafold folding prop is useless as well.

What horsepower are you looking at? I can sell you my lovely Autoprop

[ALAIN97133]

Originally Posted by NorthPacific

For those that know the rough prices on the west coast of North America what $ would I be looking at to replace a Volvo MD 17C. I have a 1984 Dufour 35 heavily ladened for offshore cruising. Yanmar and Beta....

Whatever brand you choose, you should look seriously at saildrive transmission with geared folding or feathering prop unless you like to loose at least one knot with a fixed prop when sailing

[robert sailor]

Originally Posted by ALAIN97133

Whatever brand you choose, you should look seriously at saildrive transmission with geared folding or feathering prop unless you like to loose at least one knot with a fixed prop when sailing

My bet is that it might be a hell of a job installing a sail drive where he already had a shaft drive engine on a glass bed, folding props are pretty easy to come by.

[CarinaPDX]

The alternative to a sail drive with folding prop is not a straight shaft with fixed prop. Personally I went with a feathering prop (Luke) but of course a folding prop is also a possibility with a straight shaft. Saildrives are useful for moving the engine aft, allowing for more interior room, but this is not an advantage in a conversion unless you intend to rebuild the interior. I have seen too many saildrives with corroded lower units to consider them a better alternative to the traditional drives in salt water. I would expect the hull modifications to increase the costs of a new engine, while I would expect the resale value to be lower. I don't see the win. YMMV


Greg

[NorthPacific]

Originally Posted by ALAIN97133

Whatever brand you choose, you should look seriously at saildrive transmission with geared folding or feathering prop unless you like to loose at least one knot with a fixed prop when sailing

As I already said I have a folding prop. Personal preference would be never to have a sail drive on a boat.

[NorthPacific]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

Replacing the prop is just the beginning. The more powerful engine will probably require an upgrade from 1" to 1-1/4" shaft, which will probably require a new stern tube (and cutlass bearing, and stuffing box/dripless seal). You may also need to upgrade the seawater cooling system for higher flow. The exhaust system will be larger (the Yanmars have 3" exhausts, which is one reason I didn't go with them). The fuel system will probably need to be upgraded from 1/4" to 3/8" hoses. Volvo requires an exhaust fan to their standards and I would expect others as well. You may have to change your controls/morse cables. Changing the bedlogs is to be expected, and may require custom engine mounts.

Depending on how much needs to be changed the material costs could run in the $15k-20k range. If you are not going to do it yourself the labor could be substantially more. [edit: above the material price, not greater than the materials - although I wouldn't be surprised if it was at least half again.]


I am a bit stalled on my installation of a 38hp Volvo, from an 18hp Sabb. It has turned into a very large job, with implications for the 12VDC system as well as the items above. Trust me, this is neither trivial nor cheap...

Greg

Think you miss understood. The Volvo is 36hp so I would go with the best fit. I have repowered before and know of the pitfalls all too well. But if you are saying 15-20k on top of the engine cost I think that is a bit over the top. My question was what is the rough cost of a new 35-38hp engine 10k 15 20k Yanmar and Beta seem to be the main choice on the board. I know I will never buy another Volvo.

[CarinaPDX]

No, I meant the engine cost included. I would guess around $12kUSD engine only but a few phone calls would get the answers. If you are serious about this then get to the Vancouver Boat Show later this month, and carry on to Seattle the same week if you would consider doing it here.

I hope you are wrong about Volvo.☺The newer ones are Perkins blocks. Parts prices are similar to Yanmar - too damn high. Beta does look attractive...

Greg

[colemj]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

I hope you are wrong about Volvo.☺The newer ones are Perkins blocks. Parts prices are similar to Yanmar - too damn high.

This has been the case since 1994. Memes are difficult to displace.

Mark

[NorthPacific]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

No, I meant the engine cost included. I would guess around $12kUSD engine only but a few phone calls would get the answers. If you are serious about this then get to the Vancouver Boat Show later this month, and carry on to Seattle the same week if you would consider doing it here.

I hope you are wrong about Volvo.☺The newer ones are Perkins blocks. Parts prices are similar to Yanmar - too damn high. Beta does look attractive...

Greg

No idea greg about the newer ones. My first one had a gas engine that was hooped when I bought the boat. Long story but had to change it.

Steve

The MD17c is a Nosy, dirty leaves a slick when it is cold and is a brute that keeps on working. Every filler is in the most inaccessible place. The gear oil is supposed to be checked every day. That means that I have to unload my aft locker of several hundred pounds of gear then squeeze into the engine compartment and then blindly check the fluid level. So of course I tend not to do it as often as I should.Unfortunately the bits that fall off have been very expensive. Exhaust elbow, new alternator, oil and gear box. I was quoted $400 for the temp sensor! replaced with an automotive one for $40 and so on same with the alternator (marine). The final straw was when I tried to get a little O ring to stop a persistent drip from the fuel filter/ pump. $45 and a 2 month wait while they got it from the moon lol.

As to the new ones I have no clue, I am just gun-shy. Good luck with your new investment and I hope you never have to buy any bits. Me neither.http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...lies/peace.gif
Steve

[colemj]

The MD17C was designed in 1974 and ended production in 1981.

I'm pretty sure all engine manufacturers recommend checking all fluid levels every time before operating. It is a CYOA thing that few actually do.

I don't mean to be a downer, but it is highly unlikely that you will easily be able to get inexpensive parts for your new engine when it is 34 years out of production.

Mark

[NorthPacific]

Originally Posted by colemj

The MD17C was designed in 1974 and ended production in 1981.

I'm pretty sure all engine manufacturers recommend checking all fluid levels every time before operating. It is a CYOA thing that few actually do.

I don't mean to be a downer, but it is highly unlikely that you will easily be able to get inexpensive parts for your new engine when it is 34 years out of production.

Mark

No problem checking Fluid levels. But as I said for the gearbox I have to dismantle 1/2 the boat.
As to parts I think it has been well covered on this thread and others that Volvo parts are exceptionally expensive. As to 32 years hence I am planning on being well dead>
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...lies/smile.gif

[colemj]

Originally Posted by NorthPacific

As to parts I think it has been well covered on this thread and others that Volvo parts are exceptionally expensive.

Actually, if you check the threads containing real factual data, you will see I have several times posted a price listing of Volvo and Yanmar parts from equivalent engines - and there were no real differences between the two.

Things like oil filters were more expensive from Volvo, but if you needed an injection pump or many other parts, Yanmar was sky high comparably. Overall, they both charged the same high prices.

And that is if one did not go to Perkins to get the same Volvo part for 30% less.

I understand that you expect to be gone by the time your new engine is 34yrs out of production. My point was more on how you were coloring your current engine experience. Do you think if you had a Mitsubishi or Yanmar, or anything other than Volvo, that was 34yrs out of production that your experiences would be better?

It is mostly a hate of the color green at this point in time. I am always amused when someone speaks in glowing terms about Perkins, while tearing Volvo apart!

Mark