“We don’t know if it runs...”

[skipmac]

$1500 might be a good deal on a P30. I agree that you should count the engine dead. Start looking at the rest of the boat to determine if it's worthwhile.

First, structure. Hull and deck joint, solid, leak free? Leaks in the deck, wet core, port leaks, etc. If any significant issues with any of the above forget it. A bad wet core and rot is a definite killer.

Sails - how many and in what condition?

Rigging - how old and in what condition? Decision here will be to some degree determined by your boating plans. If you're going to go cruising I would be more critical than if you will be day sailing on a lake. However, losing a mast in either situation would be expensive and dangerous.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by SailsWithFists

Purchase as if the engine is junk. If you can get it running, then good for you. If you cannot, then find a good used diesel (many available for under $2k) to install.

You will be dissatisfied with an outboard on the transom in the long run. Small used diesels are dirt cheap.

Plus outboards are not cheap if you want one with controls. The money could be better spent.

[JDOradio]

Re-powering with a diesel can be very expensive. I have priced a replacement for an old Palmer 11HP gas single cylinder for a Dolphin 24 project, and parts alone were around $6K for a used engine and new everything else. I gave up looking for a less expensive alternative after a year of fruitless searching. Yes you may find an engine alone for $3000 or even a little less, but then you need a transmission, prop, shaft, exhaust, controls, tankage, etc etc. Before you know it you have $10K sunk in a boat that will never be worth that much.

I had a boat with an A4 in it, and I currently have a friend with one in his Pearson Vanguard. They are great engines, parts are accessible and if not cheap at least not Volvo.

Give it a close look, there may be some value there. If it is toast, I would do some pricing on re-powering before you buy.

[Cheechako]

Just be aware the most expensive boat may be free.
Here are key things to watch for:
-Sail condition. Sails are very expensive now days. The main and jib need to be good.
-Tanks: they are often buried under deck or cabinetry and bad/about to be bad on old boats.
-Bad case of blisters: this can be a $10K job.
So the key is whether there is enough "good" in the boat to be worth the old engine issue.
For maybe 3-6 times the money you may find a boat with a decent diesel engine, good sails and recent work by the owner. That may actually be a cheaper boat.
Good luck!

PS: a few years ago I was going to look at a Cat 27 with working inboard Yanmar diesel. The seller was moving out of state. He wanted $3500 so I figured that's a good deal. Something came up and I had to cancel looking at it. I called a week later to arrange again. He had given it away free!

[fatherchronica]

My friend was going for broke when he purchased his 63? steel boat awhile ago, so when the diesel quit functionng he mounted a 60 plus h.p. outboard and sailed back and forth that way between La Paz, BCS and Morro Bay for a few years, following the seasons like a Canadian goose. He was very happy when he had enough ducats to fix whatever was wrong and get that diesel going though.

[seasick]

My first thought is that $1,500 for a Pearson 30 with a suspect engine is
a reasonable price but not a phenomenal deal. I have had several boats with
Atomic 4 engines and I think they are very resilient to abuse.

Take a large socket wrench and see if she turns freely.
Does she still have a distributor and coil or electronic ignition?
You’ll likely need to bring a gallon of good gasoline and some carb
cleaner. If the A4 still turns freely with the plugs out and if you’re getting spark
then I would be surprised if you don’t get it running after just a few tries at cranking.
I recommend pulling the raw water impeller and greasing the heck
out of it then crank the engine with the seacock closed so as not to drown the engine with seawater backing in the exhaust valves.

Plumb your clean gas straight to the fuel pump bypassing the vessel’s tanks and filters.

I hope you will keep us aprized as to your decision to move forward and
your efforts/success in getting that A4 purring.

[Boatyarddog]

First see if you can turn it over by hand, pull the plugs, if it's impossible to move the flywheel then you're looking at more than you may be interested in.
Point ignition, updraft carburation, old,old.
If it will crank easily, then that's good.
See if you can turn the shaft somehow, the gear box should be ok, shaft packing could be rusted to the shaft, or sticking to it
You wouldn't want to cause a leak while in the water, or tear the log boot apart, unless you're hauled out.
Other items, waterpassages clogged, thermostat rusted shut, impeller dry or cracked, damaged.
Getting fuel into that up draft carb can be a challenge if the access is bad.
But if it checks out, points, plugs, cap, rotor, and you have ignition spark, give it a try.
Diesels, are awesome, retrofitting, can be a challenge, shaft lengths, coupler matching, hoses, cables, but worth the effort if your serious.
Best of luck
Cheers,
SV Cloud Duster

[Cadence]

Before turning by hand. Pull the plugs and spray something like mystery oil in. Not WD 40 it is not a lubricant. Don't rush. Coat the cylinder walls and let it make its way down to the rings.

[IslandHop]

A4 is a great engine and will take a lot more abuse then a diesel will and most parts are reasonable $. So if she turns freely you're pretty much on easy street . Definitely check for signs of rust, she may be rusty all over but look for weeping rust and corrosion, take the breather off and look into the carb. You will want new fuel lines, quality clamps that you tighten very very often and great ventilation + sense of smell

[thomm225]

Been there, done that.

I paid $2,000 for my boat in 2011 and the iffy diesel engine failed on the second outing so I bought another old diesel and it failed.

Then I bought a new 4 stroke outboard. (2011)

I now have about $8,500 in my boat, but it is a Bristol 27 so I'm think it's worth it.

[JPA Cate]

Jim had a boat with an anemic 4* engine. The heat exchanger de-zincified, and water ran down into one of the cylinders, through an open exhaust valve, iirc. We found it about a week after it must have happened. No permanent damage.

Just plan on putting in a diesel. Imho, vessels designed to have inboard engines don't do really well with outboards, which tend to get swamped in a seaway.

Ann
*owner's joke. It has only 2 crankshaft bearings. Oh, and see if the blower still works, it's purpose is to void the boat of gasoline fumes prior to starting.

[captlloyd]

Originally Posted by seasick

My first thought is that $1,500 for a Pearson 30 with a suspect engine is
a reasonable price but not a phenomenal deal. I have had several boats with
Atomic 4 engines and I think they are very resilient to abuse.

Take a large socket wrench and see if she turns freely.
Does she still have a distributor and coil or electronic ignition?
You’ll likely need to bring a gallon of good gasoline and some carb
cleaner. If the A4 still turns freely with the plugs out and if you’re getting spark
then I would be surprised if you don’t get it running after just a few tries at cranking.
I recommend pulling the raw water impeller and greasing the heck
out of it then crank the engine with the seacock closed so as not to drown the engine with seawater backing in the exhaust valves.

Plumb your clean gas straight to the fuel pump bypassing the vessel’s tanks and filters.

I hope you will keep us aprized as to your decision to move forward and
your efforts/success in getting that A4 purring.

Good common sense answer. It is not brain surgery, spend a little time and see if the engine is serviceable. If you are not mechanically minded It would even be worth a few bucks to get a mechanic to go with you and get his opinion. Get your ducks in line first, battery, gas, etc. If it turns free it will likely start. opcorn

[hamburking]

Hi. I recently owned a Pearson 30 for about 5 years.

First, let me say the Pearson 30 is overall a well made, super fun boat to own and sail. It goes fast, is forgiving, and has tons of space above and below for all your crew and gear. If you have any specific questions about the P30, send me a PM.

As others have said, assume the engine is anchor bait. However, I would not be at all surprised if you were able to get it running fine without much trouble at all. The A4 is famous for its longevity. In the distant future, when apes rule the earth, their boats will have A4 engines that start easy, and run smooth.

Aside from the engine, I should mention that P30 boats sell very cheaply. Their value is entirely based on their condition.

I bought my P30 in Toronto, Canada. The A4 had been replaced with a Volvo Penta B2002...which almost fit, and was a fine engine. It had new electronics, new standing rigging and new sails. I think I got a bargain. I made a lowball offer, and the PO could not sign it over fast enough. I could hear him laughing as I sailed away.

So, aside from the engine, if the standing rigging has not already been replaced, it will definitely need to be replaced. Same with sails. Same with electronics. The cockpit floor will be soggy around the rudder post, as Pearson did a lousy job sealing this up. Its not a huge job to repair this, but a nasty job, and every P30 needs it done. Hopefully, its been done already.

Are you loving the plastic wood below? Do the cushions take you back to the 1970's? And what about that weird locker, starboard side, forward in the main cabin?

As you are already aware, its an encapsulated keel...so check for grounding damage. These things are built like tanks, so it would take a real hard hit to make a dent...but some sailors can do it, with enough practice.

All that aside...if you found one in reasonably good shape, with a reasonable collection of gear, then the P30 is likely one of the best values in sailing you will find anywhere. I've seen them for sail for hundreds (not thousands) in sail away condition...not pretty, but sail away. An out of water inspection would be prudent. At the very least, bring a knowledgeable friend to have a look with you. If you aren't too far from Kingston, ON, Canada, I'd be happy to have a look with you...or send me pics and I'll tell you what I think. Film is cheap these days.

Best of luck, and I hope you post more about the boat...I had many great adventures on my P30, and singlehanded all the time, and went everywhere in all kinds of weather. I was thinking of sailing it south, but the wife (now ex) said sell. Thats a whole nother story right there. Suffice it to say, the young lad who bought it from me sailed it up to Quebec City and back, without a stitch of trouble.

[Time2Go]

Good place to start would be by purchasing
“Universal ATOMIC-4 Service and Overhaul Manual”
About 50 bucks or so from Moyer Marine
Moyer Marine Atomic 4 Engine Rebuilding and Parts
You have lots of rebuild options
Cheers & Happy New Year to All
Neil

[Pelagic]

Don't waste your time or energy working for the Seller who obviously has forgot about the boat and just wants to get rid of it.
If your labour gets it running, then the price will not go down

Factor in the aditional discount of a New (not used) engine and the professional cost of removal and installation.

Start your negotiations from there

Odds are there are other hidden problems due to neglect, so that gives you a cushion to work with and be prepared to walk away