Volvo Penta MDI (Black Box) failures

[frajolex]

Originally Posted by Wizo

Not as a completed circuit diagram. I tried out each required function as a separate circuit and tested it prior to installation. This ensured that as the system built up I did not have to go back and find and fix errors as happens when you build the whole thing and then test.
There was a lot of time spent digging around to get all the info, cable and item specs required.
As you saw from the first picture I posted it looks a bit messy but as I say thats because they are all individual circuits.

This was a project I worked on and off over last winter and the wife and I have been sailing confidently for the first time in over 3 years this summer.
The engine has been faultless and has now done around 50 hours without missing a beat. This coming winter I will make a neat and tidy version!

I can draw up some or all of the circuits individually and PM them to you as you require - just let me know. BTW what engine do you have?

Hi Wizo, any chances you can send this to me too? I have a volvo penta D1-20f

[Wizo]

Originally Posted by frajolex

Hi Wizo, any chances you can send this to me too? I have a volvo penta D1-20f

I am up to my ears in a kitchen makeover at the moment and “the boss” is overseeing me (she who must be obeyed).

I will do it in sections a bit at a time as time allows if that is ok with you.

[Wizo]

Originally Posted by frajolex

Hi Wizo, any chances you can send this to me too? I have a volvo penta D1-20f

I am up to my ears in a kitchen makeover at the moment and “the boss” is overseeing me (she who must be obeyed).

I will do it in sections a bit at a time as time allows if that is ok with you.

[frajolex]

yeah... my engine is officially dead. The tach now doesn't even light up.

[Tetis114]

Hello. Thanks for all the information you have shared! I have a D1-20 were the MDI box started to behave bad this summer.
So I am really interested in your project.
Especially if you have been able to make use of the original fitted sensors , temperature, oil pressure . And if not how did you installed the new sensors ?

[Wizo]

Originally Posted by Tetis114

Hello. Thanks for all the information you have shared! I have a D1-20 were the MDI box started to behave bad this summer.
So I am really interested in your project.
Especially if you have been able to make use of the original fitted sensors , temperature, oil pressure . And if not how did you installed the new sensors ?

Swapped the temp sensor for one with temp and alarm as the instrument panel is completely hidden from view when standing at the wheel.

I purchased an oil pressure gauge but the complication I found was that the T adapter configuration to have both was defeated by the presence of the engine mounting. I think this will require something to be made up to suit. So at the moment I have rigged up a buzzer in the cockpit behind the instrument panel to warn of low oil pressure using the existing sensor.

For the tacho I have used the W terminal on the alternator. You can adjust the Kus version to bring the reading to within 150-200 revs of the actual using a cheap Chinese laser rev counter on the engine pulley (having stuck a light reflecting sticker on it) This is more than enough accuracy for day to day use and I can set the engine revs to my normal cruising revs by knowing the difference.

[Wizo]

Originally Posted by frajolex

yeah... my engine is officially dead. The tach now doesn't even light up.

If you look back at earlier threads you will find the connections for shorting the 10mm2 supply to the starter motor solenoid to start your engine. No electronics are required to keep the engine going. To stop you can use the manual stop lever on the fuel injection pump if you have one. Or wire a separate circuit for the fuel solenoid.

[frajolex]

Originally Posted by Wizo

If you look back at earlier threads you will find the connections for shorting the 10mm2 supply to the starter motor solenoid to start your engine. No electronics are required to keep the engine going. To stop you can use the manual stop lever on the fuel injection pump if you have one. Or wire a separate circuit for the fuel solenoid.

Yeah, that's what I'm using, but still afraid of just using it without alarms.

I honestly would love to just collect all the data from sensors, without the MDI, and display in my Axiom MFD.... that would be enough... I don't need physical gauges... but it seems this is pretty hard to accomplish.

[CarinaPDX]

Originally Posted by frajolex

Yeah, that's what I'm using, but still afraid of just using it without alarms.

I honestly would love to just collect all the data from sensors, without the MDI, and display in my Axiom MFD.... that would be enough... I don't need physical gauges... but it seems this is pretty hard to accomplish.

You can buy equipment to do just that but they are not cheap...

Greg

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by frajolex

Yeah, that's what I'm using, but still afraid of just using it without alarms.

I honestly would love to just collect all the data from sensors, without the MDI, and display in my Axiom MFD.... that would be enough... I don't need physical gauges... but it seems this is pretty hard to accomplish.

Nope not that complex as long as you don’t want physical gauges as well. I’m using one of these

NEW NMEA 2000 Multifunction Converter /N2K Converter Single/Dual Up to 13-18 sensors Signal For Boat Yacht Marine Converter
https://star.aliexpress.com/share/sh...%3DsocialShare

[Wizo]

Originally Posted by frajolex

Yeah, that's what I'm using, but still afraid of just using it without alarms.

The two warn system sensors heat and oil pressure on the engine short to earth.
So you need a fused 12V supply with switch split to each sensor with a buzzer in line on each of the circuits. When the power is turned on the oil pressure will be too low and the buzzer will sound but will turn off as the engine is started and the oil pressure rises. The temperature alarm will not sound until overheat is detected.
This will not take very long to make once you get the materials.

I honestly would love to just collect all the data from sensors, without the MDI, and display in my Axiom MFD.... that would be enough... I don't need physical gauges... but it seems this is pretty hard to accomplish.

Thats a big project…..

You have to do something to keep going until Volvo can make an MDI that works and stays working. I for one will not waste any more money on them till they do.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

I agree V-P has really dropped the ball. The recall is years late, only applies to some engines, and has not been publicized. OTOH if it had been earlier they wouldn't have had a reliable replacement - which itself is shameful.

Unlike the old Volvo marine engines, Volvo did not design these; they are Perkins/Shibaura 400-series diesels that were first marinized by Perkins-Sabre, then sold the business to Volvo. The MDI is one of the few original V-P contributions from what I can see, and clearly an embarassment.

BTW while researching this I found that the earliest D2-40F engines don't actually meet the claimed EPA standards, and themselves are subject to a recall beginning in 2017 and ending July 1, 2019. They will be switching out my engine for a new one with 2 year warranty, which will meet the standards. They do transfer some parts and accessories in the process. I will be looking into whether they transfer the MDI, in which case I will pursue the MDI recall first. Fun & games...

Greg

The MD2020-40 series were also Perkins engines.

[Wizo]

That engine replacement is very interesting and it all adds up to a total breakdown in the company’s research, building and testing. Something is clearly wrong within their organisation.

Do you know if they are independent or have been taken over at some point?

[CarinaPDX]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

The MD2020-40 series were also Perkins engines.

I wouldn't say "also": I take your word that those were Perkins engines, and these are Shibauru engines marketed by Perkins - something a bit different.

Originally Posted by Wizo

That engine replacement is very interesting and it all adds up to a total breakdown in the company’s research, building and testing. Something is clearly wrong within their organisation.

No, it was nothing so dramatic. They misinterpreted the U.S. environmental regulations and confused manufacture and import dates IIRC. Just a SNAFU.

It is not clear who owns the MDI debacle but I suspect that is a V-P creation. Whoever it was, they should have long ago engaged the services of designers who know how to make electronics for extreme environments instead of trying to do it themselves. That should have been obvious after a few unsuccessful redesigns...

Greg

[CarinaPDX]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

Nope not that complex as long as you don’t want physical gauges as well. I’m using one of these

NEW NMEA 2000 Multifunction Converter /N2K Converter Single/Dual Up to 13-18 sensors Signal For Boat Yacht Marine Converter
https://star.aliexpress.com/share/sh...%3DsocialShare

Thanks for that. All of the systems I had found were far more expensive and complex. But IIRC they were programmable for alarms and were more sophisticated. This should do fine as long as you own an N2K display for engine data. My 13 year old Furuno chartplotter can do that, and be programmed for alarms, without buying anything else. That looks like a "cheap and cheerful" solution. Far better than buying unreliable replacement MDI boxes.

Greg