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brownoarsman · 16-05-2015, 19:18

Great experience! The PO had run a descaling treatment a few years ago, and had replaced the riser. It was really pushing water well until it just, well, wouldn't sometimes, I think due to my opening of a recirculating valve that hadn't been opened in years.
I'll try the compression trick after vacuuming out through the injector holes. The funny part about the tractor forum story was that they turned the engine over with ether, and then had to retrieve the head from a cow pond 100 feet away

I don't believe that will be my problem though

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brownoarsman · 16-05-2015, 19:50

Sorry, TN, just saw your post! I have learned a lot about Diesel engines this past month, and it all makes me want to go electric

And if you're concerned about the gas rag, I probably shouldn't tell you what I've been doing with MAPP gas ...
The worst part was just how trial and error it all was (hydrolock, disassemble, clean fuel system, reassemble, hydrolock, disassemble, try new gasket material, reassemble, few days trying to get manifold off, etc.) and then finding the real issue quite by accident! Had I known up front that I'd be five weeks in already, I would have put an outboard on right away! Mooring costs, flying to the Bahamas rather than sailing there, and the consumables and tools to wrench on the engine would basically have paid for it (or a quarter of the price of a new diesel, even). I don't even mind the money so much as the time.
At least I can rest assured that neither Calder nor Casey ever prescribed flushing your block with the glow plugs out and seeing if anything leaked as a diagnostic step! I'll have to write in with that tip

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brownoarsman · 17-05-2015, 08:41

Put the glow plugs and injectors back in (left rocker and pushrods off), turned her over a few times, but that head hasn't budged a bit. Chain hoist on the head will be tomorrow's game.

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Terra Nova · 17-05-2015, 08:42

Good thing you have nothing but time to kill.

four winds · 17-05-2015, 09:16

Maybe pressure from the hoist and turning it over with the starter.

brownoarsman · 17-05-2015, 09:53

Well there's always myself, as well, TN ... I kid, I kid.

I was playing around with a block and some line earlier, and the chain hoist is going to tear up my cabin a bit as the run isn't straight to the pad eyes on the head. I can drill through the cockpit and install an eye bolt, or try to pull the chain hoist towards the bow with a line run out of the anchor locker, but I'll probably just wait until I'm back in Maryland where I'll lift the whole engine out. So an outboard is the short term solution. Thanks for all the help everyone, I very much appreciate your patience and advice throughout this process/project.

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Shawn67 · 17-05-2015, 17:36

Probably need rockers and pushrods back in to make it work, at least on the intake side. Otherwise you aren't letting the engine suck in its displacement of air to compress.

Shawn

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brownoarsman · 17-05-2015, 18:40

Good point Shawn. I looked all over the Internet for a tutorial on this, but couldn't find one. I had thought the air in each cylinder at reassembly would have been enough, but you're right that one piston would have been at the start and the other at the end or both somewhere in between.
In case the head decided to pop violently, I didn't want to have the rockers on.
To increase the force of the compression, what do you think about adding some uncompressible liquid? Little bit of MMO? If the last two hydrolocks didn't hurt it ...

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Shawn67 · 17-05-2015, 18:43

"In case the head decided to pop violently, I didn't want to have the rockers on. "

If you are worried about that rethread any available head bolts and leave them just loose. That would help hold the head if it went pop.

I wouldn't try it with the liquid. I'd be afraid it would break something else.

Shawn

brownoarsman · 19-05-2015, 06:36

So I've tried it again, even tried to hammer a thin pry into the seam between the head/block; no luck. Going to take the engine out in MD. Any recommendations as to what to do with the engine in the meantime besides putting it back together, removing the impeller, and locking the shaft in place? Should I pickle it by filling the injector holes with MMO or not worth it for just a month and a half?

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jimbunyard · 19-05-2015, 19:58

Have you tried a wood chisel, flat side parallel to the head surface of the block, chamfered edge up, as close as possible to the stud, starting at what appears to be the least stuck side or end, and a medium big hammer?.... Also (with apologies), are you absolutely sure that all the securing fasteners have been removed? I've embarrassed myself with that one often enough...

jldunn86 · 19-05-2015, 20:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimbunyard

Also (with apologies), are you absolutely sure that all the securing fasteners have been removed? I've embarrassed myself with that one often enough...

I also have had this issue, you feel very foolish after days of effort and then see the hidden fastener....

DeepFrz · 19-05-2015, 20:52

Don't bother with MMO unless you already have it. Just squirt in some regular motor oil in the injector holes and seal it up. You don't need anything but the cheapest oil for that.

brownoarsman · 20-05-2015, 04:31

Thanks guys. I've got some MMO (actually forgot I'd put some in there once, turned the engine over, and got a face full of it!).
I've definitely heard a few stories about hidden fasteners

I have, however, gone all over the head with a flashlight, counted bolts and studs and compared them to the parts diagram, and had two friends do so as well. Somehow she's just stuck!

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brownoarsman · 15-08-2015, 13:06

Hi friends. After a week bumming around the Pamlico sound, I'm closing in on Annapolis where I will lift the engine out of the boat, and, following an earlier post, suspend it from a hoist just a centimeter or so off the ground while spraying pb blaster all around the head/block seam continuously. Hopefully that stuff really does eat gaskets!
I've read a lot and watched a few videos on pulling engines out, and would love some thoughts on my plan. After disconnecting the hoses and wires, stripping whatever heavy stuff off the engine that I can, and wire brushing the engine mount studs, I'm still left with the conundrum of how to pull out the engine. I will lift it out of the boat with my main halyard (which has supported me, and me and my engine are the same weight), but pulling it from the bay may prove difficult. The angle inside the engine bay for the halyard would probably destroy some trim around the base of the cockpit, and would probably tip the engine over rather than pull it out. My thoughts are to undo the engine mount bolts entirely, and slide the engine over the bay stringers with the bolts still attached to the engine. I worry that the engine may fall off the stringers however, and then I'd be in a real mess! I could also install a pad eye and small block into the engine room from the cockpit and lift it up inside the bay in order to slide it forward, and just epoxy fill the hole later. I will, of course, probably have to reinstall the engine when this is done, so hopefully whatever technique I use will work in reverse. If you have any advice, please share it! I've attached some diagrams of the setup here: profile view with engine mount in profile, and face on view.