Is this as bad as it looks?

[Cheechako]

My surveyors have noted engine appearance, any leaks etc and how well it runs, albeit they also have the disclaimer about hiring an engine inspection etc.

[leftbrainstuff]

There is clearly a leak.

Your options are:

1) do nothing and dont complain when it fails
2) preventative maintenance. Fix it now or soon
3) corrective maintenance. Fix it when it fails.

It's your choice. Me I prefer to pick the time and place i do repairs rather than have failures dictate when and where.

I also have a motorsport background. If you can't eat your dinner off it then it aint right.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by Scout 30

I think most surveyors simply include an engine disclaimer & don't inspect the motor at all.

So don't hire one of those. Hire one of the good ones, they are out there. If people put as much care in to choosing their surveyor as they do their matching upholstery and Corian countertops there'd be fewer of those mediocre surveyors out there.

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by Djarraluda

Jumped in part way through the comments, probably said by others as well, but DO NOT simply use 316 stainless for an exhaust and then expect it to last.
316 (and 316L) is not rated for these temps.

Care to expound on this?

[boogalloo]

Madwand
Been there done this on an M30
Loaded info and full description and got bombed out
Email me at johnstillcrazy@hotmail.com

[The Garbone]

Originally Posted by Madwand

Attachment 138106

I'm not sure how worried I should be about this corrosion. This is the $100 flange that attaches to my $1500 exhaust manifold on my Universal M25XP engine. Both parts would beed to be replaced to fix it. Surveyor didn't mention it. An elbow attaches to this and goes to another corroded chunk of metal. For all I know, this could have years of life left in it.

I think you would be better off asking this in a C30 specific forum. Pretty common issue and the folks here do not know the specifics of your boat.

[Hoodsail]

As noted earlier would search for a source of the dampness that has resulted in the corrosion. As example - Last Spring I noted that only 1 of 4 engine mounts (forward, port) was rusting. I ended up replacing my water pump">raw water pump which was leaking and causing the problem - the pump is directly above that particular mount. Wouldn't jump to an engine overhaul given just this information.
good luck.
dave

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

I see no viable reason to remove the exhaust manifold unless you need to to get the thing apart.

This^^^^

Removing the manifold is discussed in this link, scroll down

Universal M-18 & M-25 Alternator Bracket Upgrade Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

It might be wise to remove the manifold to better access the removal of the flange.

Good luck.

[Cheechako]

Boatwork 101:
-Remove the elbow
-remove the manifold because you are anal and that's how you roll.
-Bolt holding the manifold to the block breaks off in the block.
-Remove the engine to fix the broken bolt
-Mechanic you hired to remove the bolt and fab the new elbow is sick and hasn't returned your call for 2 months.
-It's now sailing season but your boat is inoperable
-You notice activity at the mechanics shop!
-Stopping by you find out there's an auction going on because the mechanic died and out of business....your engine has been sold.
-The marina sends you a letter indicating all boats in the marina per "rule 37.5 section r" of your agreement, must be operable at all times. You have an eviction date.
-You buy an outboard and bracket.
-Mounting the bracket from your dingy while in the water you deep six it. -You hire a diver to retrieve the bracket.
-Once mounted, you find new moorage 15 miles away.
-the day you move the boat there are gusts to 20, on the nose, tide against you. The outboard keeps coming in and out of the water and wants to turn on the bracket. You keep pushing and eventually get there sailing and motoring.
-Trying to get into your new slip (only one available is deepest in the marina) You scratch the stern of a gold plater.
-Whew! you are in and moored!
Lesson learned 101: Don't remove the manifold! "If it aint broke, don't fix it!" :>)

[kmacdonald]

Originally Posted by Madwand

Attachment 138106

Can't you buff that out?

[westwinds]

When engine repairs are needed, do not guess, take the item apart and carefully assess the problem. If there is a manifold crack or anything needing welding, call a few automotive machine shops. They have the special ovens for preheating needed to weld engine heads and manifolds.

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

....................
.....................................
Lesson learned 101: Don't remove the manifold! "If it aint broke, don't fix it!" :>)

Good advice. But... I answered his same question on sbo.com earlier this week and gave him a tons of links so he could figure out what he had. When he started out he didn't know the difference between the manifold, flange and riser. He's learning.

Maine Sail's link shows how to remove the manifold, which is why I posted the link, it's the only one I know of on the entire internet that shows pictures.

I'm just trying to help the guy out.

I agree, if he doesn't need to he shouldn't. But I spent quite a bit of time getting the nuts off the studs to remove my old riser. I never even thought about removing the manifold, too much work. Oh, he didn't know they were studs, either, but he's learning.

Good luck to the OP, there's some good advice here, too.

[Cheechako]

Yeah, just trying to be funny while imparting a little bit of "how boat repairs actually go..." :>)

[Island Time O25]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Yeah, just trying to be funny while imparting a little bit of "how boat repairs actually go..." :>)

Amen to that. But sometimes one lucks out and gets away with good old cleaning to get the thing working.

Last Spring when I took out on old Universal 3211 and replaced it with an old Yanmar 2QM15 the starter on the Yanmar began giving me the attitude. My first knee jerk response was to check the prices for a new starter and I was floored by the price of around $700-900 plus taxes plus shipping. That would've been a major hit to my engine swap budget. My marine pro buddy who was helping me with the swap said that first step in any repair should be the simplest and go from there. So we opened up the starter, wire brush cleaned and greased it, put it back together and miracle of all miracles it worked like a charm. And continued working throughout the season.

Following our success with revitalizing the Yanmar starter I took the starter, water pump and whatnot off of my old Universal as they all seemed to be in good shape and likely would come in handy some day, even if as trading chips. I was going to take and keep the tranny too but the yard threw the engine in the junk pile and now I have to dig for it in the Spring.

[moseriw]

Originally Posted by Scout 30

I think most surveyors simply include an engine disclaimer & don't inspect the motor at all. That's why it's typically recommended that any buyer have a mechanic check the motor out.

Well yes BUT we have surveyors to get an expertise and NOT disclaimers or statements like "On deck I see an outboard engine make/type"

My Question: did you test it - answer NO.

On my boast the surveyor did not check the seacock that were cheap brass plumbing scrap.

engine check: analysis of oil and coolant at a lab. Pressure check of the zylinders = 1/2 hr work. So where the f... is the problem.

Engine of this thread: I assume the material of the exhaust fitting is not good enough and the dezincification of the engine is broken.