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Tingum · 15-08-2013, 15:30

From an opinionated old salt and yard service manager: Sailor Chick you rock! Well done I am totally impressed!!

Ocean Diamond 2 · 15-08-2013, 15:42

Way to go girl, you did great!!!

2 years ago on a Dehler I had to change over 4 Yanmars, 2 x 2gm20's and 2 x 3gh30's before we found one that worked. these were all pulled by myself but the hard work was completed by the Yanmar agents . So if you can do all that work and better than an agent in my books , you've done fantastic
Derek

**sailorchic34** · 15-08-2013, 18:46

Well not sure I did it better then a yanmar agent, but I did do it lots cheaper..

I figure a trained fellow, could have the engine apart in a day and back together, if done right, in two days. Someone could do it in a day if you left out all the measuring required.

At current labor rates that about $2700 for labor not counting removal and installation. Add costs for pulling and installing the engine, and it could easily get to $8,000-$10,000.

That's not including machining which for me was only $275. Parts were $700 for the yanmar bits and another $100 ish for hose clamps, new exhaust hose, paint,etc. Plus $80 for the special tool fabrication. I thought the yanmar parts prices were quite reasonable. Well except for the two engine mounts which was about 40 percent of the total yanmar bill... Ouch.

Tomorrow I take the boat on a three hour tour and find a quiet spot for a few days.. I've about 2 hours on the engine at the moment, with part of that being a short trip just to make sure the engine, prop were happy. Everyone says it sounds really good. Its been a while since its run so well.

Teknav · 15-08-2013, 19:22

Hiya SC! Please do not do a 3-hour tour!!! Look what happened to the folks on Gilligan's Island after a 3-hour tour; they're still shipwrecked. To this day, the Coast Guard keeps getting calls to really find that island and rescue these poor stranded folks!

Mauritz
Going to behave now!

**sailorchic34** · 16-08-2013, 15:50

Well did a two hour trip today and the engine ran like a champ. Starts easy, idles and runs smoothly. Oil pressure right at 60 psig and engine temp at 173 which is where it should be... Life is good!

Geoduck · 16-08-2013, 16:32

HIZZAH!! HIZZAH!! HIZZAH!!!

Tayana42 · 16-08-2013, 16:36

SC, Indeed life is good! Go enjoy the hard earned fruits of your labor. You are an inspiration.

Therapy · 16-08-2013, 16:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailorchic34

Well did a two hour trip today and the engine ran like a champ. Starts easy, idles and runs smoothly. Oil pressure right at 60 psig and engine temp at 173 which is where it should be... Life is good!

EveningTide · 18-08-2013, 15:24

I want to thank you for your great story of what its like to do a job like this. Not just the motor but all the things on the boat to remove it and so forth. I read with great interest because I have a 2GM20F (2002) with 2300 hours. For me one of the most useful parts was learning that the shaft packing can be changed with the boat in the water. I only learned this because your story included so many details. Now that the job is over, can you give us your best guess of what caused the damage?

**sailorchic34** · 18-08-2013, 20:13

You know I don't really have a clue about what caused the damage. It started using oil all of a sudden last summer on one of my infamous delta trips. It also got progressively harder to start. Where as before then and now it aways started right up.

Oil usage started up from nothing for the years before to all of a sudden needing a quart every 12-15 hours of running.

Looking at the wear zone at #3, it appears that the oil ring or the land failed first. This as the cylinder wear was all in a 30 degree arc on the exhaust side of theblock, below the 2nd ring. #2 ring was shattered into 40+ pieces. The oil ring was in 8 ish and #1 in 4 or 5 pieces.

My guess is I had a land failure between the second and oil ring, which broke the oil ring right away and then #2. Followed sometime later by the upper land and #1 ring. All three rings were stuck in their grooves.

For the last few months there, the engine would only start if #3 decompression lever was pulled first. Then it would die if I went to idle.

I also had high crankcase pressure which started leaking oil from around the valve cover bolts.

BTW the engine now starts up at idle and does not burn any oil. Just as it did for most of the time I had it. All ready up to 6 hours on the engine and I am a happy camper. Wednesday I'm off to the central bay to hunt up some flairs as mine expire in two weeks.

Cheechako · 19-08-2013, 09:00

It's not an uncommon problem for this 2gm, 3gm series. My guess would be they either have: lubrication problems getting to the lower piston area, defective piston castings for those years, or (my pick) they shouldnt recommend you run these little light engines at such high rpm (3600 etc).
It's a common thing in the diesel engine world to derate the engine and rpm the longer you want the engine to last. In other words, lets say you have an engine rated at 500 hp at 3500rpm for recreational use. They will sell that same engine as maybe 350 hp rated at 2400 rpm for 24/7 commercial use. Get the picture they are not telling you? If you need 500 hp buy the 600 hp version derated to 500 hp at lower rpm and it will last a long time!
My complaint with Yanmar has always been that they claim to have lightweight engines.... what they really have is low hp engine rated for more hp at too high an rpm! JMHO.

**sailorchic34** · 19-08-2013, 10:21

The other potential issue is what I would call an unbalanced cooling jacket on the GM series engine. The side opposite of the cam shaft has a full water jacket.But the cam side only has a partial water jacket. The bottom 1/3 of the cylinder is not jacketed at all.

I agree that the HP ratings for the GM series may be driven more marketing then reality.

Though I'm quite happy running mine at 2000-2200 RPM. BTW there was no glazing on #1 or #2 cylinder, so figure my slower engine speed is OK for the 3gm.