Ceramic Seal Removal

[bamoss]

Hello all. I am replacing impeller and seals on a Jabsco water pump">raw water pump (17050-0001) while in place on my GM 4-53. I have removed the impeller and the spring loaded brass seal and am wondering how to get the ceramic seal out. Do I just break it in pieces? Can anyone advise how to get it out with the pump in place on the engine?

BTW, I won't do it in place next time.


Bob

[sdowney717]

Jabsco 17050-0001 Pump

shows the seal as 96080-0080 which is 2 part ceramic seal.
I think the only way to get it out of the pump body is to remove the pump shaft.

I made a wooden oak dowel tool to drive the brass insert into the pump.
This must be driven just flush with the brass flush on the impellor side and carefully done with a little sealer.
The white ceramic seal turns with the shaft.

seal is ceramic and carbon faced seal. I found these always start leaking internally on the carbon side where the brass housing corrodes and the internal o-ring allows seawater to flush past the carbon side bypassing the carbon-ceramic seal faces.
http://www.go2marine.com/product/482...6080-0080.html

[bamoss]

Originally Posted by sdowney717

Jabsco 17050-0001 Pump

shows the seal as 96080-0080 which is 2 part ceramic seal.
I think the only way to get it out of the pump body is to remove the pump shaft.

I made a wooden oak dowel tool to drive the brass insert into the pump.
This must be driven just flush with the brass flush on the impellor side and carefully done with a little sealer.
The white ceramic seal turns with the shaft.

seal is ceramic and carbon faced seal. I found these always start leaking internally on the carbon side where the brass housing corrodes and the internal o-ring allows seawater to flush past the carbon side bypassing the carbon-ceramic seal faces.
http://www.go2marine.com/product/482...6080-0080.html

Thanks for the help. The wooden dowel sounds like a great way to seat the water seal. My rebuild kit had both the ceramic and brass seals and I wonder if I need to replace the ceramic one. The brass seal was 3 years old and the rubber was brittle and cracked. If the ceramic seal spins with the shaft is it safe to assume there is no water seal on the outer edge? In that case can I get a watertight pump with just the brass seal?

Bob

[bamoss]

Thanks for the help. The wood dowel is a good idea.

Bob

[sdowney717]

I ground it down to create a central protrusion on it to easily line it up when driving.
You want the driver to come close to the edge of the brass seal so when tapping it in, it wont deform-warp the brass housing. Perhaps use the backing plate to keep it going too deep. If you go to far with it, you drive it all the way out and start over. If it is too deep it will hit the black carbon seal with too much force when you press in the shaft-bearing. You also want to drive it so it is not cocked or the seal faces wont seat properly to each other.

I also use some sealer. Either permatex #2, or teflon pipe paste on the brass seal. I also put a lot of lithium grease in the bearing pump support and outer bearing and inner bearing lip seals and I also moisten the ceramic-carbon seal with water or antifreeze.

There is very little movement of the black carbon face inside the brass housing, so you need to get it lined up close to flush with the inner surface of the pump bore.

ALSO, you should press the shaft in and out instead of hitting it. If you hit it you can wreck the impellor drive end, SS metal is soft, then you will have to file it back to shape OR you can internally damage the double roller bearing and it will be noisier.

It takes just a little pressure to slide in and out. I rigged up something using a jack, some wood blocks and a boat trailer weight to press the shaft bearing in and out. A little tricky, perhaps risky!, Or you can use a large gear puller.
Or nicer, a hydraulic press.

When the shaft with bearing is seated all the way, the white ceramic seal slightly depresses the black carbon face and the snap ring fits easily into the bore.