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iwsteel · 05-08-2010, 11:05

Unscrewing the sel stop wire and jumping it to hear if it clicks would be the first step i would try. I have had them click when cold but after they warm up they might not. At first mine would run for a bit when cold..then when it warmed up it wouldnt.....then eventually it wouldnt click when power was applied period. If it doesnt click then its not lifting the stopper and wont run.
Second i would try this...It could be the lift/transfer pump also. To check that loosen the fuel supply line that goes into the pump and crank engine with stop sel Not Energized... if fuel squirts out in a steady high volume stream it should be supplying enough to start and run.(its gonna be messy and fuel will spill). I usually catch it in a cut up quart oil jug or pop bottle...even a rag will work.(i have seen lift pumps work while cranking and not when running but its pretty rare)

Unfortunately the only way to test the pump properly is by removing it and putting it on the test bench.(which is alot of work to find out your stop sel is bad and would require re-timing) That was when i decided to remove the sel and take the spring out between plunger and sel,then reinstall and start.
Keep in mind that to Stop the Motor you will have to unscrew the sel or plug a return line. The least messy way would be to put a rubber hose on the return line at a convenient place and divert it into a container... then when you wish to stop it...plug the return hose with your finger or kink it.
I know that sounds cavemanish but it saved me 2 hrs of pump remove and reinstall plus an hour drive each way to the shop and about 150 bux on the bench pump test machine.

If its the bosh type stop sel (which i suspect it is)then it should take a 15/16 wrench (.944 in) and the thread o.d. should be .9355 in. it should screw into the fuel pump head. and should NOT require re-timing to replace it unless replacement requires removing the pump(never seen one like that)
If those are the same specs as your stop sel and its a 12v with a single stud and a nut to secure the wire... the flag part number is 82 1007(i have a new one on the desk lookin at it right now)

iwsteel · 05-08-2010, 15:28

Also If your return line fitting that screws into the pump has a back check glass ball in it....i have seen them plug with stuff that looks like "coffee grounds" that will cause the same symptoms and is a sign your pump is on its last leg

Chief Engineer · 05-08-2010, 18:14

If we call this a RUN Solenoid.....When the key is turned to Start, the solenoid energizes...allowing fuel to engine....as the engine runs it takes power from the alternator to keep it open.....sometimes at a lesser voltage.......If there is a problem with the charging system the engine may shut down........as the units are essentially "on" the whole time the engine is running, they could weaken or short out with age....However, I would look at wire connections first......from ignition switch to solenoid.

As far as the Local Mechanic? Run Away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yachts66 · 05-08-2010, 18:22

Update! Well, the plot thickens: It turns out on this particular engine the solenoid is actually in the governor which sits on top of the injector pump giving the impression the solenoid is in the pump when in fact it's in the governor. Even so, it's not easy to replace or repair. I'm now seeking out another mechanic for a second opinion, but these California guys are very, very, very proud of themselves judging by what they charge! I can get the same work done up in Oregon for just over half as much. Why would anyone want to live in California any more is beyond me!

Regards,

Thomas