'02 Volvo Penta Engine

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by tedsherrin

Does anyone know if the engine mounts of a 2003T are the same in the front as the back?

Nope completely different. Rear ones look like normal engine mounts, the front ones are set at an angle facing into the block, oh and cost a fortune as I have just found out having replaced both in December. There are also some other little grommets under the engine mount tie bar at the front.

Pete

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Pete7

Nope completely different. Rear ones look like normal engine mounts, the front ones are set at an angle facing into the block, oh and cost a fortune as I have just found out having replaced both in December. There are also some other little grommets under the engine mount tie bar at the front.

Pete

Thanks Pete, but I'm only referring to the rubber part. I just went out and had a look at my engine, The 'angle' you refer to is caused by the mounting bracket not the actual mount it self.

[Rustic Charm]

Hey all you 2002-3 and specially turbo specialists.

I took my turbo off today and the large pipe that comes from the manifold side and the pipe had a lot of oil in it. I'm not sure if this is ok, I suspect it's not. Can anyone suggest a reason.

[Moody guy]

Hi
I'm afraid you are in for an expensive repair
I had the same problem on my Moody Eclipse33 fitted with the 2003T a couple of weeks ago.
I took the turbo to a local turbo specialist who reckoned it needed an overhaul.
I got it back last week and refitted it on my boat a couple of days ago.
The bill for the refurb was £350.
Ran the boat for a couple of hours and the smoke was worse than before.
Took the pipe you mentioned off yesterday and found lots more oil in it than before.
Phoned the turbo shop this morning and they asked me to check that the oil drain pipe from the turbo to the sump was not blocked as if this pipe blocks it can cause the oil pressure in the turbo to increase and blow the oil past the seals.
The turbo shop assures me that they ran it for nearly an hour on their test rig after the rebuild and there was no sign of oil leaking.
Checked the drain pipe this afternoon and perfectly clear so I'm back to square one.
Phoned the turbo shop and they said to bring it back in and they would check it out again.
So another couple of hours hanging over the top of the engine to get it back off again.
Another cause of the oil leaking past the turbo seals can be excess pressure in the crankcase caused by worn piston oil rings and this pressure prevents the oil draining out of the turbo back to the sump.
Will post again when I get the results.
Harold


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[Rustic Charm]

Thanks. My mechanic came back and suggested the oil in the manifold side was evidence of crank case pressure but he's not to concerned about that. He's taken my turbo charger away with him to give it a service. I hope it's not £350 though as that's close to $800 here.

It's easy for me to work in the engine at the moment as I've got it out of the boat on a table at home.

[Rustic Charm]

Hi, for those interested. Here is a picture with my alternative heat exchanger with header tank and after market oil cooler.

Heat exchanger is a EC100 suitable for up to a 54hp motor (mines 48) which cost me $600 delivered to Australia. The oil cooler I installed last year, it cost from memory around $200 I think.

Still need to plumb the heat exchanger.

[Moody guy]

Hi Ted
I like the idea of having the engine on the kitchen table.
Many years ago I rebuilt an Albin 2 cylinder engine on our kitchen table.
TV dinners for 3 months.
The wife tolerated the engine rebuild but went ballistic when I brought in the Jabsco toilet to rebuild it.
Interesting about the heat exchanger option. There is a guy with Moody over here with a heat exchanger needing replaced and didn't want to go to the expense of buying a new VP unit.
Think he would have had to sell his house to afford it.
I had suggested to him that he should try fitting an aftermarket unit.
I will forward your picture to him.
I presume you are going to use the original volvo penta connections on engine, exhaust etc and fit short pieces of pipe and rubber hoses to plumb the heat exchanger or are you going to try and tap the engine connections and fit hose tails.

Whereabouts are you in Australia. Our son lives in Brisbane now and Melbourne for the last 14 years before that.

Harold


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[Pete7]

The other option for a 200x series engine is to go raw water cooled. Ours is 25 years old and has been raw water cooled from new. Still have plenty of hot water in the calorifier after half an hour of motoring.

Pete

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Moody guy

Hi Ted
I like the idea of having the engine on the kitchen table.
Many years ago I rebuilt an Albin 2 cylinder engine on our kitchen table.
TV dinners for 3 months.
The wife tolerated the engine rebuild but went ballistic when I brought in the Jabsco toilet to rebuild it.
Interesting about the heat exchanger option. There is a guy with Moody over here with a heat exchanger needing replaced and didn't want to go to the expense of buying a new VP unit.
Think he would have had to sell his house to afford it.
I had suggested to him that he should try fitting an aftermarket unit.
I will forward your picture to him.
I presume you are going to use the original volvo penta connections on engine, exhaust etc and fit short pieces of pipe and rubber hoses to plumb the heat exchanger or are you going to try and tap the engine connections and fit hose tails.

Whereabouts are you in Australia. Our son lives in Brisbane now and Melbourne for the last 14 years before that.

Harold


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

Mine isn't on the 'Kitchen' table. I would not get away with that. Though the fuel polishing unit I put together on the kitchen table over two weeks and somehow I got away with that. Don't figure. ( women that is).

As for plumbing I'm going to keep the copper pipes and just cut into them with rubber hose and ss clamps. There's no pressure in the system so that should be fine. My mechanic is not happy with those rubber hoses on the oil cooler though. He's worried that as they get hot and old they will come loose. So I'll probably change those next season to ss hydrolic hose. You can see the oil cooler hoses initially point 'up', that's so when the engine is turned off the oil doesn't drain out.

A replacement vp water cooler was $2700. A vp oil cooler was $1400. And the inherent corrosion problems would still be present in the replacements.

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by tedsherrin

A replacement vp water cooler was $2700. A vp oil cooler was $1400. And the inherent corrosion problems would still be present in the replacements.

Ouch, ditch the heat exchanger. This also removes the need for the pump which means if the fan belt snaps you loose charging, but that is all and it isn't quite the emergency it first sounds as the raw water pump will still turn as it's driven directly by the engine.

Pete

[olaf hart]

You also need to change the thermostat, the freshwater one is 170 degrees, the saltwater one is 140 degrees.

If you use the hot one with saltwater the channels block with scale.

[Rustic Charm]

I'm a little surprised by these recommendations about turning a fresh water cooled engine into a raw cooled engine. I acknowledge that 'an' engine has gone for 30 years without a problem, but this is an exceptionally long period of time for a salt water cooled engine. The experiences of both 'outboard' and 'inboard' owners of raw water cooled engines with blockages and eating engines.

My own engine is a typical example. It was not the fresh water side of it that corroded both the oil cooler and is seriously damaging the heat exchanger, but the salt water that is doing that. And yet your suggesting I run this same salt water through the rest of the engine? I struggle to see this is sensible advice.

My past boating experience, until I purchased my first sail boat in 2011, was on outboard boats. The damage that is done to these engines by salt water when owners don't sufficiently flush them with fresh water was the main cause of their demise. It's very visual damage.

[olaf hart]

I have a saltwater 2003 that dates to the mid 80s, keep the zinc up and watch the passages, it runs fine.

I regard the 2003 as disposable now, it certainly isn't worth spending serious money on it if something goes, and the cost of spares is so high it is wiser to replace it.

That said, with regular maintenance and care it just chugs on.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by olaf hart

I have a saltwater 2003 that dates to the mid 80s, keep the zinc up and watch the passages, it runs fine.

I regard the 2003 as disposable now, it certainly isn't worth spending serious money on it if something goes, and the cost of spares is so high it is wiser to replace it.

That said, with regular maintenance and care it just chugs on.

If I had the money I'd certainly go to something else. But I'm hoping with spending a couple of thousand now on the oil cooler, heat exchanger and perhaps the turbo, if I look after it with regular oil changes etc, then I'm hoping it will last long and true.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Moody guy

Hi
I'm afraid you are in for an expensive repair
I had the same problem on my Moody Eclipse33 fitted with the 2003T a couple of weeks ago.
I took the turbo to a local turbo specialist who reckoned it needed an overhaul.
I got it back last week and refitted it on my boat a couple of days ago.
The bill for the refurb was £350.
Ran the boat for a couple of hours and the smoke was worse than before.
Took the pipe you mentioned off yesterday and found lots more oil in it than before.
Phoned the turbo shop this morning and they asked me to check that the oil drain pipe from the turbo to the sump was not blocked as if this pipe blocks it can cause the oil pressure in the turbo to increase and blow the oil past the seals.
The turbo shop assures me that they ran it for nearly an hour on their test rig after the rebuild and there was no sign of oil leaking.
Checked the drain pipe this afternoon and perfectly clear so I'm back to square one.
Phoned the turbo shop and they said to bring it back in and they would check it out again.
So another couple of hours hanging over the top of the engine to get it back off again.
Another cause of the oil leaking past the turbo seals can be excess pressure in the crankcase caused by worn piston oil rings and this pressure prevents the oil draining out of the turbo back to the sump.
Will post again when I get the results.
Harold


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

Well, news is not good. My mechanic called me today after he has dismantled the turbo and he's advised there is an unknown amount of wear to the housing where the fan has been rubbing. Ideally he's recommending it be replaced but raised the question of whether it's worth replacing. $2100 to $2700 for a new turbo, $100 for a rebuild kit. The kits not enough to fix the wear problem though which means I'm going to continue to have oil problems in the exhaust. I've already spent $1000 on a replacement heat exchanger and fittings it's not worth spending another $2600 on getting a new turbo so it looks like I'm going to have to plan for a re engining for next year and stick an overall kit in it to bide some time. Frustrating!