'02 Volvo Penta Engine

[witzgall]

I agree. I would imagine that if the seals were replaced every five years, at a cost of around $25, there would never be any issues.

Chis

Originally Posted by defjef

The cooling tubes and seals are a bit of a problem, but the seals are cheap and easy to replace. The engine is fine. It's strong and mine has been going for ages.

Celestial sailor had a bad experience - happens with ALL engines - all cars, all boats.


If they were that crappy they wouldn't be in business and OEM in many fine yachts.

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by witzgall

I agree. I would imagine that if the seals were replaced every five years, at a cost of around $25, there would never be any issues.

Chis

Have you looked at how these are held in place by design? Between vibration and minor nicks or deterioration on the pipe ends or hold plate, it is easy to get leaks on these tube connections. It is a poor design. I don't think it has anything to do with how often you change the seals.

Paul L

[witzgall]

Yes, we own one. I have cures the design as much as the next owner, but in the end, it could be much worse. Looked after, I do not feel that it is bad enough to worry too much. I think that the seals I replaced were 20+ years old.



Chris

Originally Posted by Paul L

Have you looked at how these are held in place by design? Between vibration and minor nicks or deterioration on the pipe ends or hold plate, it is easy to get leaks on these tube connections. It is a poor design. I don't think it has anything to do with how often you change the seals.

Paul L

[Paul L]

Chris,
My 2003 engine runs fine. It isn't a bad engine and I wouldn't shy away from another Volvo. Those tube connections are poor design and a headache at times.

Paul L

[Davey1000]

Originally Posted by Chief Engineer

If you want to MURDER a diesel use ether/startingfluid. When I find cans of ether on a new customers boat, I take them with me....followed by a phone call, in case they go looking for them

The volvos I have seen have a cold start procedure.

The way I do it in lieu of ether is to open the throttle to about 2/3-3/4 and using a heat gun heat up the air going into the engine. It does basically the same thing as glow plugs.......I had to do this, on a much bigger scale on Fairbanks-Morse 10 Cylinder Opposed Piston Engines....used small ceramic heaters...(If the block heaters took a "dump"

I think it is still possible to buy Lucas/CAV "Thermostart" units. These are a clever little gadget that screws into the inlet manifold. (retrofitting glow plugs to cylinder heads is beyond most people but fitting a Thermostart is not) The manifold will of course have to be drilled and tapped unless it has a blanking plug ready for "cold climate" equipment. The Thermostart uses an electric heater and a bi-metal strip. The heated bi-metal strip works a valve that allows diesel fuel to drip onto the red hot heater element. As the fuel burns it causes a plopping sound. THIS is the time to turn the key to the start position as the heated air warms up the cylinders and allows the engine to start. Thermostarts were popular on British tractors in the 1950s and 1960s but you won't need them in the Caribbean. Allegedly a friends Petter Mini 6 now starts first time every time and it is running as soon as the piston goes over compression. In England pre-heat was usually needed.
Ether is very bad for diesel engines but for petrol engines its not quite so bad. The correct solution is usually to charge the battery or buy a new one.

[Weyalan]

For what it is worth, a feature of the 2000 series Volvo engines, for cold start is that, prior to starting the engine, they recommend you pull out the engine stop cable and push it back in again, which for reasons I don't really understand, makes the engine a lot easier to start.

[never monday]

Originally Posted by Weyalan

For what it is worth, a feature of the 2000 series Volvo engines, for cold start is that, prior to starting the engine, they recommend you pull out the engine stop cable and push it back in again, which for reasons I don't really understand, makes the engine a lot easier to start.

it has to do with moving some catches and stops in the governor linkage. The end result is more fuel is injected to the cylinder, that equal easier starting

[Weyalan]

Originally Posted by never monday

it has to do with moving some catches and stops in the governor linkage. The end result is more fuel is injected to the cylinder, that equal easier starting

I guessid it had to do with the doohickey moving some thingamajigs in the doodad... thanks for the explanation!

[SailPlanejunkie]

Anyone have advice or know where I might be able to buy a reconditioned circulation pump (freshwater cooling) for a volvo penta 2003? I have a cooling issue and I have narrowed it down to the pump or a blockage...any test/advice to determine which it might be (blockage/pump) is also welcome. Thanks for the help.

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, SailPlanejunkie.

Which model V-P?

[SailPlanejunkie]

It is a 2003b 28hp 3 cyl

The pump seems to be fine....I guess before I take it off the boat I want to be sure..... I have replaced the thermostat and the heat exchanger has been rebuilt. I even tried running without the thermostat. The raw water side is doing great.....replace the impeller but it was working just fine.....I can run at 1500 to 1800 for 15 mins in neutral and run the temp up to 200 degrees where I shut it down....is there a rate at which the fresh water pump should pump?

[never monday]

Originally Posted by SailPlanejunkie

It is a 2003b 28hp 3 cyl

The pump seems to be fine....I guess before I take it off the boat I want to be sure..... I have replaced the thermostat and the heat exchanger has been rebuilt. I even tried running without the thermostat. The raw water side is doing great.....replace the impeller but it was working just fine.....I can run at 1500 to 1800 for 15 mins in neutral and run the temp up to 200 degrees where I shut it down....is there a rate at which the fresh water pump should pump?

I would check the elbow for blockage even though you think the raw side is working fine. Then I'd have the cooler cleaned.

[witzgall]

We had the same issue - the fresh water cooling pump was completely clogged up with gelled anti-freeze and ??? (the boat we purchased had sat for 2 years)

I talked to the PO about this, he also said that the cooling pump has a press-fit pulley, and that if it comes loose, it will spin but not pump.

If you need a pump, PM me - I have a friend that is parting out a 2003 and I am sure he has one.

Chris

[chen4885]

Originally Posted by The Mons

The new bracket looks something like this.

I have had exactly the same problem with the pipes leaking onto the starter and I have made a piece like this to hold the pipes in place.
I took a piece of iron, 8 cm. long an 2,5 cm. wide. Then I found the middle. From the middle you measure 22 mm to each side and that shall be the centre of of two holes 13,5 mm wide. In the middle of the iron bar, but NOT in the centre I drilled a 6 mm hole for the locking nut to hold the bracket. In the middle of the iron bar you measure 5 mm from one of the sides and that shall be the centre of the 6 mm hole ( a 6 mm hole is 3 mm on each side of the centre, so there will be 2 mm left ). So once again -the 3 holes are NOT in a straigt line as it looks on Mons' drawing but the 6 mm hole has to be in one side of the bracket. In the end I cut the iron bar in the middle of the 2 13,5 holes to make the bracket lok like the one on the drawing. I made it of iron since it the same material as the original. I think you can make it in other materials as well, but be aware on corrision of the two copper pipes.
I know that a lot of 2002 engines has problems with the connection between gear and engine. Suddenly the connection is worn and then the motor runs without turning the gear-box. Here in Denmark we have found a sollution to that problem, so if you need advice on that, just ask Regards Carsten

[Rustic Charm]

I know this is an 'old' thread, but I'm hoping to resurrect the topic of the 2000 series engines for up dates.

Three years ago I purchased my ketch with a 2003 T engine. It's been poorly looked after and neglected and had salt water dropping over it. I've removed it three times so far and am about to remove it entirely from the boat to try to stop all minor oil leaks.

Last year I found the oil cooler had corroded away beyond repair. I purchased an after market one for $3000 and that works fine. The water cooler is on it's last legs too. The alloy around the edges has deteriated to the extent that it can no longer be repaired. What I did to get it going is to use a metal putty to seal the unit completely. It's worked for the season but it now means the unit is completely unserviceable. I've costed a replacement after market one which will be $600.

Fuel filters I've found I can use a Fleet Guard 42000 which is marine grade plastic and far cheaper at $15 @ compared to the $40 Bosch that comes with Volvo Penta.

Apart from the expense of replacement parts it goes well, starts easy using the cold start procedure. I now need two new engine mounts so I'm up for $500 for thise two.

Receipts in the boat indicate the engine had a complete overhall in Queensland in 2006 at a total cost of (wait for it) $14000. Yep, I'm thinking someone took advantage of the urgency and the fact the owners were on holidays. If they did their research they could have had a replacement engine installed for $12000.

But, in any case, I'm stuck with this engine so I intend to pamper it.

One of the oil leaks seem to be coming from the turbo, and another from under the frint crank.