Ideas on bridle for asymmetric between hulls

[Oliver66]

Well, I asked at the La rochelle boat show about genak without the factory mounted bowsprit.
answer of Z Spar who make the FP's mast and rigging: no way there is a big risk of "towing the beam between hulls backward" when trying to reach 70°/ 65° of the apperent wind

> Stan & Factor: Do you have photo of your bridle ???

thanks !

[Factor]

Okay

Not sure why this would have any effect on the beam It is in no way attached to the beam?

1st photo the ringed area is the bridle attached to Spin. It comes down to blocks mounted on the bow and back(ringed) to the Clutch/Winch at the cockpit. Is that clear? Best photos I have sorry, but as you can see the system has nothing to do with the forebeam.

[Oliver66]

thanks !

[StanL]

Originally Posted by Factor

Okay

Not sure why this would have any effect on the beam It is in no way attached to the beam?

1st photo the ringed area is the bridle attached to Spin. It comes down to blocks mounted on the bow and back(ringed) to the Clutch/Winch at the cockpit. Is that clear? Best photos I have sorry, but as you can see the system has nothing to do with the forebeam.

Those U-bolts on the bows look to be specifically mounted for the purpose of this bridle. My cat happens to have u-bolts in about the same location, but my guess is that they were intended for jack lines, matching the ubolts at the sterns.

The strain of a new bridle would be at an angle to the vertical u-bolts on my cat. Would the force of an assym be too much for the u-bolts?

[Factor]

The Ubolts on the beam are for the anchor bridle, the spinnaker bridle goes through blocks on the bow, the spinnaker thus has no connection to the forebeam. And those blocks on the beam are how the boat got lifted into the water when it was "born".

[Abaco]

Floating tach bridal:

1) pad eye or cleat for attachment at on each hull (forward of seagull striker)
2) 2 fiddle blocks with becket (Harken # 030)
3) 2 fiddle blocks with cam cleat (comarable to above)
4) Cordage should be approximately 5 X beam X 2 bridles (4 to 1 purchase plus tail)

One end of each bridal attaches to the bow and the other attaches to the clew of the spinnaker. If you use the cleats at the boat end you have to run from hull to hull to fine tune the adjustment. If you have cleat ends attached to the clew your tails will will be up off the deck. Also care should be taken if you have navigational lights on your seagull striker. The tails can be led all the way aft or to the help but it adds a lot of complexity to the set up. This is very simple system that works well if you keep it on the bow. The spinaker can be jybed and can go from one hull to the other. Clew will float and can be positioned almost anywhere you want it.

[Abaco]

Of course that should be tack and not tach.

[Cotemar]

This should give you a good idea of how I do it. It’s a very simply method. You lose a bit by not having the chute further out in front of the boat with a sprite but the issues with a bow sprite are not worth dealing with. With the bridal you can center the tack and sheet it down low to sail close hauled or you can move it over to one side of the boat or the other and let the tack rise up for sailing more downwind.

The one issue might be how to run your sheets to get them on winches.

[Abaco]

Cotemar,

Was that photo taken on a Voyage in the BVI by any chance?

[StanL]

Originally Posted by Abaco

Floating tach bridal:

1) pad eye or cleat for attachment at on each hull (forward of seagull striker)
2) 2 fiddle blocks with becket (Harken # 030)
3) 2 fiddle blocks with cam cleat (comarable to above)
4) Cordage should be approximately 5 X beam X 2 bridles (4 to 1 purchase plus tail)

One end of each bridal attaches to the bow and the other attaches to the clew of the spinnaker. If you use the cleats at the boat end you have to run from hull to hull to fine tune the adjustment. If you have cleat ends attached to the clew your tails will will be up off the deck. Also care should be taken if you have navigational lights on your seagull striker. The tails can be led all the way aft or to the help but it adds a lot of complexity to the set up. This is very simple system that works well if you keep it on the bow. The spinaker can be jybed and can go from one hull to the other. Clew will float and can be positioned almost anywhere you want it.

Great post. Two follow up questions:

1. For what size vessel is your recommendation of purchase and block size?

2. I'm trying to envision the bitter ends of the bridle sides when the cam cleat blocks are at the tack. Do the control ends cause problems with the forestay, or grabbing them? Or are you securing the bitter end near the forestay?

[StanL]

Thanks for the explanation and pic.

What does the bridle attach to on the bows?

[StanL]

Great close up picture on those obviously purpose built bridle blocks.

Was that a factory installed option?

[Jerry Woodward]

So far, I have been re-using my anchor bridle on my asym. The bridle is a length of line with a butterfly loop in the center that I normally tie off on each forward bow cleat and connect to the anchor rode with a prusik knot and a loop. For the spinnaker, I simply clip the butterfly loop to the tack and attach each end to cleats on each bow adjusting the position of the tack to the point of sail I want. I may have to go back and forth a couple of times to get the right adjustment, but it has been pretty easy. The sheet runs back to a block on the outside genoa track and on to the winch. I may install blocks and cleats at some point, but for now, this is KISS. I've had the best luck with the main down and apparent wind from 90 to 160 degrees aft. But I'm still learning.