Tayana 37

[Paul L]

You really will need to pull the chainplates if they have not been replaced already to determine their state. They will most likely require replacement if original. I looked at a T37 in La Paz for a friend. They ended up buying it and replacing the chainplates. They are now in Asia with the boat.

[Kevin84]

Originally Posted by Paul L

You really will need to pull the chainplates if they have not been replaced already to determine their state. They will most likely require replacement if original. I looked at a T37 in La Paz for a friend. They ended up buying it and replacing the chainplates. They are now in Asia with the boat.

I was planning on replacing them if I buy the boat. What I'm hoping for is that she is in good enough condition to make the hope from Jacksonville to Charleston.

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[Paul L]

Originally Posted by Kevin84

I was planning on replacing them if I buy the boat. What I'm hoping for is that she is in good enough condition to make the hope from Jacksonville to Charleston.

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If you are concerned with the offshore condition of the boat you can always take it up the ICW in a few days to Charleston.

[Kevin84]

Originally Posted by Paul L

If you are concerned with the offshore condition of the boat you can always take it up the ICW in a few days to Charleston.

That's true. Though I'm not sure the ICW in GA is dredged deep enough.

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[Paul L]

Originally Posted by Kevin84

That's true. Though I'm not sure the ICW in GA is dredged deep enough.

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I took 5' 6" through there 18 months ago. Had to wait on tides for a bit of it.

[Kevin84]

Originally Posted by Paul L

I took 5' 6" through there 18 months ago. Had to wait on tides for a bit of it.

Ok. The owner swears she's sailable, so we'll see. I might test his willingness to prove that by asking for a sea trial. Just to see what he says.

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[lancelot9898]

Send an email to tognews@googlegroups.com

There are hundreds of members of the Tayana owners group that post info there and also going to the google archives will give you much info(along with pictures) about repairs and upgrades made to many of the 37's.

The first thing I would look at on a T-37 is the condition of the bowpulpit, but since it has been replaced maybe it is OK. I'm assuming it never had teak decks which is another source of weakness. Besides a survey, I would get an engine analysis since the hardness thing on a diesel is lack of use. Maybe a sea trial would be sufficient to see that eveything is OK. Try also to determine the condition of the tank located in the bildge. Hopefully there is no tank in the bow which can contribute to hobby horseing. A Tayana is a very sea kindly boat and while other owners mention that weather helm is a problem, I've never had much problems and can adjust my 1985 Tayana to steer itself without even using the monitor wind vane. Good Luck.

[Kevin84]

Originally Posted by lancelot9898

Send an email to tognews@googlegroups.com

There are hundreds of members of the Tayana owners group that post info there and also going to the google archives will give you much info(along with pictures) about repairs and upgrades made to many of the 37's.

The first thing I would look at on a T-37 is the condition of the bowpulpit, but since it has been replaced maybe it is OK. I'm assuming it never had teak decks which is another source of weakness. Besides a survey, I would get an engine analysis since the hardness thing on a diesel is lack of use. Maybe a sea trial would be sufficient to see that eveything is OK. Try also to determine the condition of the tank located in the bildge. Hopefully there is no tank in the bow which can contribute to hobby horseing. A Tayana is a very sea kindly boat and while other owners mention that weather helm is a problem, I've never had much problems and can adjust my 1985 Tayana to steer itself without even using the monitor wind vane. Good Luck.

Thanks! I was told the mahagony in the original bow spirit was rotting and it was replaced two years ago. I'll check the location of the tank as well. In talking to Bob Perry about it, he also mentioned checking the tank in the bilge. As far as the engine, I was told it runs, though it isn't developing it's full power. So that'll be something to look out for. Thanks also for the email for TOG.

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[Pato]

Another thing to look at is all the bulkheads at the tabing and check for rot I had 7 rotten ones on my t37 as well as where the sole substructure was tabed there was rot. Also check the Samson posts in the anchor locker at the bottom for rot. Check tanks as others have mentioned check in tanks if possible my tanks were horrible. If keel steped check it again mine was rotten and off center. As for knees you can try taping with a hammer if they sound hollow probably need to be replaced not to difficult. All the metal on mine was in bad shape such as chain plates and all fasteners. If you get to sea trial her offer to was the boat upon return the check bellow for leak from bow to stern if you find any leaks check the area around it for rot from leak to a few feet from it which ever way water would go. That's all the input I got. I'm on the end stretch of a 4 year total refit on my t37. They are fairly simple boats. Best of luck

[ddsailor25]

We have a 1986 T37 and love her, but she is a lot of work. On older models, the inside of the bulwark is hollow so if your sailing inheavy winds or if it's just raining the water can run under the cap rail and get inside the bulwark. From there it can run down the length of the boat and eventually finds its way inside making it difficult to stop leaks. This can also lead to chain plate problems and coring rot. In the later models they realized this designs flaw and foam filled the space and sealed the cap rail on better.
I'm not sure of the older models and the weather helm, but our boat we find we will reef at about 15 to 18kts of wind and that will greatly reduce the weather helm. From there she will sail herself depending on point of sail.
Like others have said, check standing rigging, bow spirt, bob stay and the water line fitting, check all thru hull seacock valves, cuttless bearing by shaking the prop shaft from side to side and same thing with the rudder. If the boat has batteries in it make sure all light and electronics work.
Overall the T37 is a great boat if she has been kept up. We looked for about two years to find our boat. When we first started our budget was around the same as your, but as we educated our selves more and looked at a lot of boats we realized that most of these boat needed a couple years or work and a lot of additional money. So we opted to spending more on the initial cost of the boat so we're just not bogged down with projects. Your views might be different and doing projects is the fastest way to learn the systems on your boat. Best of luck.

Dave

[Kevin84]

Originally Posted by ddsailor25

We have a 1986 T37 and love her, but she is a lot of work. On older models, the inside of the bulwark is hollow so if your sailing inheavy winds or if it's just raining the water can run under the cap rail and get inside the bulwark. From there it can run down the length of the boat and eventually finds its way inside making it difficult to stop leaks. This can also lead to chain plate problems and coring rot. In the later models they realized this designs flaw and foam filled the space and sealed the cap rail on better.
I'm not sure of the older models and the weather helm, but our boat we find we will reef at about 15 to 18kts of wind and that will greatly reduce the weather helm. From there she will sail herself depending on point of sail.
Like others have said, check standing rigging, bow spirt, bob stay and the water line fitting, check all thru hull seacock valves, cuttless bearing by shaking the prop shaft from side to side and same thing with the rudder. If the boat has batteries in it make sure all light and electronics work.
Overall the T37 is a great boat if she has been kept up. We looked for about two years to find our boat. When we first started our budget was around the same as your, but as we educated our selves more and looked at a lot of boats we realized that most of these boat needed a couple years or work and a lot of additional money. So we opted to spending more on the initial cost of the boat so we're just not bogged down with projects. Your views might be different and doing projects is the fastest way to learn the systems on your boat. Best of luck.

Dave

Well, the boat is in the water, so me checking below the water line may prove difficult. With the cap rail and bulwark, would removing the cap rail and putting a layer of glass under it solve the problem or is it just something that will have to be lived with?

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[Kevin84]

Originally Posted by Pato

Another thing to look at is all the bulkheads at the tabing and check for rot I had 7 rotten ones on my t37 as well as where the sole substructure was tabed there was rot. Also check the Samson posts in the anchor locker at the bottom for rot. Check tanks as others have mentioned check in tanks if possible my tanks were horrible. If keel steped check it again mine was rotten and off center. As for knees you can try taping with a hammer if they sound hollow probably need to be replaced not to difficult. All the metal on mine was in bad shape such as chain plates and all fasteners. If you get to sea trial her offer to was the boat upon return the check bellow for leak from bow to stern if you find any leaks check the area around it for rot from leak to a few feet from it which ever way water would go. That's all the input I got. I'm on the end stretch of a 4 year total refit on my t37. They are fairly simple boats. Best of luck

Thanks for the info! I'll add the bulkheads and sole to the list.

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[lancelot9898]

I'll second the comment for checking the rot in the sampson post down in the chain locker. I ended up injecting git-rot epoxy in mine and sealing off the posts at deck level with caulking.

[ddsailor25]

Kevin,
If you do a survey you'll have to do a short haul to inspect below the waterline. We purchased our boat on the hard in the middle of winter, but we found one delamination spot that needed to be repaired, so it is important to check. As for the deck joint under the bulwark i have heard of some owners taking the caprail off and glassing in there, but thats no small job! Hopefully she'll have no leaks. You might just start with cleaning out all the old caulk and reapplying new. Just look for water staining below decks in the cabinets and around the chainplates, that should tell the story.
Also if you do a google search for some of these topics i'm sure you'll find more information, but i'll also be happy to answer any questions.

Dave

[Kevin84]

Originally Posted by lancelot9898

I'll second the comment for checking the rot in the sampson post down in the chain locker. I ended up injecting git-rot epoxy in mine and sealing off the posts at deck level with caulking.

10-4. I'll check it out.

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