NOT running diesel under load anxiety

[Celestialsailor]

[QUOTE=Baby tug;3701942]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

Would you like to make a wager , I will , you got an extra 10 grand laying around , I don’t know what caused The problem with the boat you bought, I would look at the wet exhaust that causes problems that anything else

Baby Tug...Crap man! read the post. I took the head off and then it could rotate 360 degrees. I was the carbon which had formed from the engine started for a few minutes then stopped before it warmed up. Then moisture caused the swelling of the carbon after it had sat. A very reputable diesel engine rebuild guy told me this after looking at the head to do the top end. I will say though...#4 cylinder showed signs of water intrusion(just a few speckles of surface rust in the cylinder). This could have been people cranking it with the water inlet valve open and it not wanted to start but I think we would be splitting freckles on an ants butt.

[SouthBaySailor]

I run my M35B 10 min every 2 weeks at the dock until temp is its normal running temp. I put in forward and reverse gear for 5 sec each. The problem with running in gear for extended period of time is that the propeller kicks up mud and the dust is sucked in by the raw water pump. This fine dust becomes wedged between the pump shaft and the rubber seals and wears out the seals which causes leaking.

[bcboomer]

Originally Posted by SouthBaySailor

I run my M35B 10 min every 2 weeks at the dock until temp is its normal running temp. I put in forward and reverse gear for 5 sec each. The problem with running in gear for extended period of time is that the propeller kicks up mud and the dust is sucked in by the raw water pump. This fine dust becomes wedged between the pump shaft and the rubber seals and wears out the seals which causes leaking.

That's not long enough to get the oil up to operating temperature and you are adding needless wear.

[DoubleD]

I appreciate everyone's input on this topic. I didn't expect so many responses. At a simplistic level, it seems like no matter how you do it, if you start the engine, make sure to get it up to temperature before shutting down. I'm heading down to the boat in a few minutes to check up after last nights wind storm (40kts+) and likely will start her up. Problem is I injured by back the other day and moving the engine box to check the oil may be an issue. Trying to stay in the habit of always checking the oil and coolant before starting (another topic I'm sure). Thanks again for all the input.

[Tupaia]

Originally Posted by Baby tug

What kills your engine in your sailboat internal rusting , moisture in the cylinders rusting the cylinder walls etc. etc.

Yep, I was always taught by a old mechanic that when laying a boat engine up for more than a couple of weeks to mist spray the external moving parts and wipe them over with a rag then stuff the rag into the air intake. The most common problems with marine engines is corrosion of the valves leading to compression loss caused by moist salt air entering the cylinders through the open intake valves.
Leave a note on the key start to remind you to take the rag out before starting.

[DoubleD]

Originally Posted by sinnerman

You might think of performing some maintenance on the diesel if you just bought the boat from someone else. You often cannot depend that the person before you did the proper maintenance.

- Check all the hoses for cracks & damaged /rusting hose clamps.
- Replace the engine coolant
- check the condition of the seals on the coolant reservoir cap
- Replace the fuel filters
- Replace the engine oil & filter
- Open up the raw water pump and check/change the impeller
- Clean the heat exchanger.
- Replace the zinc(s)
- Have the fuel tank cleaned ("polished" ) to remove water and algae
- Make sure the cap on the fuel fill inlet on-deck has a good o-ring on it (water can enter the fuel tank..)
- Check the belt condition / alignment. (A lot of black "belt dust" is a giveaway)
- Replace the transmission fluid
- Check the battery & battery terminal condition
- Check the condition of the battery cables at the starter and ..the GROUND cable on the engine.

Often ignored maintenance items:
- Valve adjustment (valve "lash")-Needs adjustment every xxx hours
- Injectors - They periodically need to be removed, cleaned and tested
- Exhaust mixing elbow internal condition (it rusts out)

Cheers


DD

[/QUOTE]
Sinnerman, Great list of projects and most were on my list for this winter. Started with the oil change and replacing a couple hoses. Next is the raw water systems etc. Thank you for the comprehensive list.

DD

[jipcho]

I has a car accident. Subsequent surgery and rehab kept me away from my boat for nearly 3 years. In the water again, she just wouldn't start. Tried all the tricks with several of my diesel mechanic friends. Gave up, and had he engine (Volvo 50 hp) removed and examined. The prognosis highlights why I disagree with those who have said it's okay to never run your engine. Condensation inside the cylinders, sitting there for 3 years, caused the piston rings to rust. Upon trying to start the engine, the rings wouldn't spring properly, causing a lack of compression in the engine. The fuel wouldn't burn, so the engine wouldn't turn over. Perhaps this is an uncommon problem, but if you come to the boat now and then, why not run your engine once in a while (under load when possible)? A few perhaps unnecessary engine hours isn't a deal breaker, IMO.

[Baby tug]

The biggest enemy of most of these boat Engines is the Wet exhaust , I’ve been an advocate of converting Boats to dry exhaust forever , mention that on these websites and they attack you, keel cooling and dry exhaust it’s probably the best upgrade you can do , I can give you 100 examples of wet exhaust Ruining engines , I’m mostly a trawler guy been running them and owning them for 50 years, a little more difficult to do on a sailboat , can be done

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by Baby tug

The biggest enemy of most of these boat Engines is the Wet exhaust , I’ve been an advocate of converting Boats to dry exhaust forever , mention that on these websites and they attack you, keel cooling and dry exhaust it’s probably the best upgrade you can do , I can give you 100 examples of wet exhaust Ruining engines , I’m mostly a trawler guy been running them and owning them for 50 years, a little more difficult to do on a sailboat , can be done

"mention that on these websites and they attack you"

and with good reason. I have been in marinas that felt it in their infinite wisdom to co-mingle dry stack fishing boats with sailboats. I would come down to my boat only to find a fresh layer of soot all over my boat. It was disgusting!

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by jipcho

I has a car accident. Subsequent surgery and rehab kept me away from my boat for nearly 3 years. In the water again, she just wouldn't start. Tried all the tricks with several of my diesel mechanic friends. Gave up, and had he engine (Volvo 50 hp) removed and examined. The prognosis highlights why I disagree with those who have said it's okay to never run your engine. Condensation inside the cylinders, sitting there for 3 years, caused the piston rings to rust. Upon trying to start the engine, the rings wouldn't spring properly, causing a lack of compression in the engine. The fuel wouldn't burn, so the engine wouldn't turn over. Perhaps this is an uncommon problem, but if you come to the boat now and then, why not run your engine once in a while (under load when possible)? A few perhaps unnecessary engine hours isn't a deal breaker, IMO.

I doubt that starting the engine a few times over a 3 year layup would have done much to prevent your upper cylinder corrosion and BabyTug’s post about wet exhausts is absolutely correct.
The only way to avoid upper cylinder/ turbo/valve stem corrosion is to remove the exhaust hose between the mixer elbow and the Aqualock for long layup periods and possibly get a desiccant or dehumidifier and bag up the outlet. Almost every engine I replace has damage from a wet exhaust, sometimes just from the humid Aqualock but also from flooding via failed vent loops and siphon breakers or simply from over cranking

[Baby tug]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

"mention that on these websites and they attack you"

and with good reason. I have been in marinas that felt it in their infinite wisdom to co-mingle dry stack fishing boats with sailboats. I would come down to my boat only to find a fresh layer of soot all over my boat. It was disgusting!

My boat is currently in a Port that’s mostly commercial , I have commercial boats all around me doesn’t bother me much , I don’t think you’ll like my diesel heaters either ,I have a diesel oven and a diesel heater that burn diesel fuel to heat ,Also my boat is built entirely of aluminum a quick pressure wash twice a year and I’m good to go , 36 foot trawler , Like I said diesel heat , hundred horsepower diesel single , set to go to glacier Bay , Northern passage for that matter , I can deal with a ice , I also have a water maker I would prefer you to keep your exhaust out of my water please

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by Baby tug

My boat is currently in a Port that’s mostly commercial , I have commercial boats all around me doesn’t bother me much , I don’t think you’ll like my diesel heaters either ,I have a diesel oven and a diesel heater that burn diesel fuel to heat ,Also my boat is built entirely of aluminum a quick pressure wash twice a year and I’m good to go , 36 foot trawler , Like I said diesel heat , hundred horsepower diesel single , set to go to glacier Bay , Northern passage for that matter , I can deal with a ice , I also have a water maker I would prefer you to keep your exhaust out of my water please

ha ha...that is what your pre-filters are suppose to do. Hey what diesel heater do you have?

[Baby tug]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

ha ha...that is what your pre-filters are suppose to do. Hey what diesel heater do you have?

Dickinson Adriatic oven and Alaska fireplace pretty standard probably about a 25 gallon gravity tank fills from the main tanks

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

Almost every engine I replace has damage from a wet exhaust, sometimes just from the humid Aqualock but also from flooding via failed vent loops and siphon breakers or simply from over cranking

Having a valve to drain the muffler is always a good idea.
On the "Vernalift" units they have a raised boss that can be drilled and tapped for some kind of drain arrangement.
Some mufflers have a plug where a fitting/valve can go.

[Chili Palmer]

I'm non-boat owner so take this with a grain of salt but, I come from a family of truck drivers, and am a former truck driver, and in that world the trucks would (now they have APU's) idle all night long, I once let my truck idle from Friday through Sunday while in Wisconsin in the winter of 95/96, with no issues. Usually you bumped the RPM's up to about 1000/1200 otherwise it wouldn't get to temp. Funny sidebar - I forgot to do that once and woke up at 3AM freezing my butt off because it wasn't up to temp!

As far as the rust in the cylinders after sitting a while, that can happen to gasoline engines as well. When it does happen you can wipe the cylinders with a little oil and let it sit or try some PB blaster. Just spray some down the injector holes and let it sit for a while then hand crank it after a day or so.

Is the worry here the diesel engine or the wet exhaust? Again, non-boat owner so trying to clarify for future reference