Is it time to replace my cutlass bearing?

[MikeHedge]

Absolutely needs replacing -- beer or no beer.

[fallingeggs]

Replacement isn't all that hard. Mainesail did a nice write up that was easy to follow.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_a_cutlass

This doesn't take into account shaft removal, which is likely the hard part of the rudder has to be dropped.

Cheers!

[Ryban]

Originally Posted by fallingeggs

Replacement isn't all that hard. Mainesail did a nice write up that was easy to follow.

Replacing A Cutlass Bearing (Sleeve Bearing) Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

This doesn't take into account shaft removal, which is likely the hard part of the rudder has to be dropped.

Cheers!

Hmm. How would the install be achieved when the bearing isn't mounted on an external strut, and you don't have such convenient access to both sides?

[jmschmidt]

Looks like it. Note: Even if there is no movement between the shaft and cutlass bearing misalignment will wear unevenly and the bearing should be replace and the shaft realigned. The only way to discover this is by removing the bearing to check for lopsided wear on the inner bearing surfaces. if misalignment has caused significant wear to the bearing surfaces you may experience the exact same shaft wobble in your video. In fact, shaft misalignment may have caused you problem in the first place, not normal bearing wear.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Ryban

Hmm. How would the install be achieved when the bearing isn't mounted on an external strut, and you don't have such convenient access to both sides?

They can be very hard to get out. There may be an invisible set screw that has bondo hiding it. At any rate, I have sawed them lengthwise before to release them . Saw a slot one side and pry to make the brass tube cave in smaller and come out.Used a hacksaw blade on a sawzall. Did one once with just a wrapped blade…. Took forever.

[jmschmidt]

Here are a couple of inane responses to my post. Whoever said owning a boat is supposed to be a "convenient" pastime. Let’s hope there is a set screw or two on the cutlass bearing but only a glutton for punishment would bondo them in. I stuff the sockets of Allen screws with wax paper and barrier coat over them. When pulling the bearing you simply take an ice pick and dig out the paint and paper.

---Quote (Originally by Ryban)---
Hmm. How would the install be achieved when the bearing isn't mounted on an external strut, and you don't have such convenient access to both sides?
---End Quote---
They can be very hard to get out. There may be an invisible set screw that has bondo hiding it. At any rate, I have sawed them lengthwise before to release them . Saw a slot one side and pry to make the brass tube cave in smaller and come out.Used a hacksaw blade on a sawzall. Did one once with just a wrapped blade…. Took forever.
***************

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by Ryban

I called them again, and they actually have one with 1" inner diameter, which would mean 0.015" clearance -- would this be too much?

You can't use a 1" cutlass for a 25mm shaft.

Pete

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Pete7

You can't use a 1" cutlass for a 25mm shaft.

Pete

Well it certainly isn't best practice or even a good idea but it would be way better than what the OP has now.

If that is all I could get and I had to use the boat, I would use the 1" until I could redo the work properly. My guess he has around 100 thou wear going by the photo / video and this way would reduce it to around 15 to 20 thou.

Of course we don't know how much wear the shaft has suffered. What is clear though is that it needs pulling apart and having a good look...(IMO).

[bletso]

Your housing looks a lot like line. I had four bolts keeping the assembly from turning and the housing un screwed. I had to have a stock cutlass bearing machined down as I thing the OEM did. The most difficult part of the process was figuring out how it was put together. Definitely excessive play.

Engine / Power Train | Sailing Vessel Vigah

[stnick]

The cutless can actually wear away and cause overheating and Can cause audiable squeel when it heats up and trys to grab the shaft.
If left alone besides the noise and overheating can scar the shaft bad enough to cause a must replace the shaft deal !!!!

[Pete7]

Indeed, what starts out as a £30 cutlass then ends up with a £200 new shaft, oh and the shaft to gearbox flange connector you had to cut off the angle grinder well that's another £60

[Emouchet]

To me, cutlass bearing is a mission critical part.
Get a good replacement part, not something that you "feel" will work.
Here is a good supplier that also offers good advices:
Duramax Water-Lubricated Bearing Systems

[stnick]

yup Duramax is the way to go . Do it now before you score the shaft its more work and cash getting to it than the cutless is worth in dollars. But a must do if you wish to head off real trouble.

[Ryban]

Originally Posted by Emouchet

To me, cutlass bearing is a mission critical part.
Get a good replacement part, not something that you "feel" will work.
Here is a good supplier that also offers good advices:
Duramax Water-Lubricated Bearing Systems

I agree that getting the right part is important, but it would be difficult to get a part ordered and delivered down here in a timely fashion, and I'm not on the hard forever.

Looking at it again today, I still haven't quite figured out how I'm going to get the old bearing out. Here's an image:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/cm5dDgzWcUoKD1A42

It appears to me there's some kind of retainer bolted into the keel (see the two bolts wired together). Clearly it has been painted over many times, so I'm not really sure what this part does. It also seems strange to me that the bearing is protruding from the retainer. Is this how it should be?

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Ryban

I agree that getting the right part is important, but it would be difficult to get a part ordered and delivered down here in a timely fashion, and I'm not on the hard forever.

Looking at it again today, I still haven't quite figured out how I'm going to get the old bearing out. Here's an image:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/cm5dDgzWcUoKD1A42

It appears to me there's some kind of retainer bolted into the keel (see the two bolts wired together). Clearly it has been painted over many times, so I'm not really sure what this part does. It also seems strange to me that the bearing is protruding from the retainer. Is this how it should be?

I have a similar setup but of course it may not be exactly the same so while I don't how your bearing comes out but I can tell how mine does.

Remove the two bolts and the retainer / bearing holder unscrews from the stern tube (which is hidden in the stern log). There is a set screw in the retainer that secures the bearing from turning. It's location becomes obvious when the surface of the retainer is cleaned up.

The old cutlass bearing is then pushed / pressed out of the retainer and new one pressed in and the set screw is refitted. The retainer is then screwed back onto the stern tube and the bolts refitted.

I'm not sure why your old bearing is extruding as it is but I suspect lazy work in the past .