Conyplex Corporation Contest 33

[w1651]

Originally Posted by Mark1977

Great pics thanks for keeping us posted, and reminding me how much work i have left to do.

Did you go through the pics and see the Sea cocks and thru hulls I have to do. Arrrrrrrrrgh!!!

[sctpc]

Originally Posted by w1651

Did you go through the pics and see the Sea cocks and thru hulls I have to do. Arrrrrrrrrgh!!!

lots of work there for you, but it looks nice on the outside

[w1651]

Originally Posted by sctpc

lots of work there for you, but it looks nice on the outside

Thanks
I'll get her there eventually. I'm on a five year plan. next thing is going to be painting deck and redding all the life lines, Sampson post,bow pulpit,and chain plates.

She really look good then

[Strider2]

We have a Contest 33 built in 1971. It is hull number 86.

The uniform hull IDs didn't exist back then. Since your hull is 106, it was very likely built 1972 or later.

We bought the boat new in 1972. I have a wealth of knowledge about the boat I would happy to share. For now I'd like to point out two things you may need to know right away.

If your chainplates are like ours, they are basically U-bolts bolted to a below-deck backing plate. We had one upper chainplate fail at about age 20. The covering plate welded across the U-bolt legs had gaps in the weld. Salt water sat in there and eventually corroded the legs, right at deck level. Fortunately, only one leg let go and we kept the mast.

You're already looking at thru hulls. We had one, the cooling water scoop for the shaft packing, that had no shutoff. I am chagrined that it took me nearly forty years to notice it.

Hope this helps.

[w1651]

Originally Posted by Strider2

We have a Contest 33 built in 1971. It is hull number 86.

The uniform hull IDs didn't exist back then. Since your hull is 106, it was very likely built 1972 or later.

We bought the boat new in 1972. I have a wealth of knowledge about the boat I would happy to share. For now I'd like to point out two things you may need to know right away.

If your chainplates are like ours, they are basically U-bolts bolted to a below-deck backing plate. We had one upper chainplate fail at about age 20. The covering plate welded across the U-bolt legs had gaps in the weld. Salt water sat in there and eventually corroded the legs, right at deck level. Fortunately, only one leg let go and we kept the mast.

You're already looking at thru hulls. We had one, the cooling water scoop for the shaft packing, that had no shutoff. I am chagrined that it took me nearly forty years to notice it.

Hope this helps.

I noticed about two months ago that one chain plate on the port side that leads to halfway up the mast was loose. I was planning on pulling all six and rebedding them with new backing plates of 1/4 stainless from below the deck.
How did the stainless corrode? I also noticed the raw water supply to the rear of the engine. I planned on fixing that on the hard next year.

Thanks for the advice and heads up. Do you have pics of your contest 33?

[w1651]

Moved onto the old girl this weekend so I am starting to really work on her in earnest. I have got to sand and varnish, reseal the hatches, and get to the chain plates. I also want to pull the engine and get that handled before the end of the year.

[sctpc]

Originally Posted by w1651

Moved onto the old girl this weekend

Congrats. Any cost info, so far?

[w1651]

Originally Posted by sctpc

Congrats. Any cost info, so far?

So far that's all there has been. But it's all good.
Boat 2800
nuts screws and fasteners. 55.00
sewing machine and table 100.00
thread 16.00
backing plates for chain plates. 50.00
french press. 25.00
pressure cooker. 45.00
groceries (dry goods) 50.00
back to grocery store (forgotten items) 10.00
back to grocery store again. 15.00

I'm sure I missed some things but you get the picture. I am having a problem with little things. Like last night I went to ace hardware and got bolts and a key for the water tank so I could fill it. Not much but that's another 8 or 9 dollars. All the little things add up.
Thank the lord above that there has been lots of paint brushes, 3/4 of a can of silkens, and sand paper on board to use so I could get a lot of the varnish work handled. That has kept me busy as well as good old fashioned elbow grease. But now I need another quart of Silkens.
I think I have spent 100.00 dollars just to get the boat cleaned up to move onto. just in cleaners brushes and vinegar, lots of vinegar.

Next is the motor gets pulled and chain plate backing plates mentioned earlier get installed. I rebedded the bow rail to stop the rain leaking so I have butyl tape. I will rebed the chain plates when I put in the backing plates. I know I need one chain plate and the rest need to be bedded. Other then the chain plate No cost just work I hope.

[w1651]

Originally Posted by sctpc

Congrats. Any cost info, so far?

Still under 1000.00. But growing incrementally.

[MacG]

The Contest 33 is still a popular boat. I know the designer, Dick Zaal, quite well and if you are in need of any technical info I might get it w/o problems.

I know Conyplex too - the Coy changed hands a few times and now they are turned on into a real profit center. They build excellent boats - at a price! Category Swan, Oyster, Baltic.
The good boats are from the '70s-'80's. Solid hulls, strong, not that particular fast but quite dependable.

You can' t go wron on them and a 33 ft in good shape is valued here @ 20-25.000 Euro

[w1651]

Originally Posted by MacG

The Contest 33 is still a popular boat. I know the designer, Dick Zaal, quite well and if you are in need of any technical info I might get it w/o problems.

I know Conyplex too - the Coy changed hands a few times and now they are turned on into a real profit center. They build excellent boats - at a price! Category Swan, Oyster, Baltic.
The good boats are from the '70s-'80's. Solid hulls, strong, not that particular fast but quite dependable.

You can' t go wron on them and a 33 ft in good shape is valued here @ 20-25.000 Euro

Thanks I love my boat. Not a soft spot on it close to 30 years after it was built. Most balsa cored boats have already been torn apart to replace the core rotting inside the deck.
Still I need a previous owners take on the little things that pop up with the boat.

[Michaila]

Hi, I just wanted to drop in and say keep up the good work on your Contest 33. It will definitely be worth it, they are great sea boats that will take you anywhere in the world. I will be following your progress with interest.

I bought one, a 1972 Contest 33 early last year. She was on the Greek Island of Leros. I sailed her back across the Med to Faro in Portugal, where she's ashore at the moment. I'm going out to Portugal in the early summer to bring her back to Falmouth in Cornwall UK, where she will be my home.

Like you, she will be a long term project for me and I can't wait to get started. If you need any advice on your refit don't hesitate to ask. I'm a yacht & boatbuilder and have been for more years than I care to remember, so know most of the tricks in the trade. My website address is below. I've also included a pic of my Contest anchored in Leros,Greece. My signature by the way is a blog I built for my old boat, a Beneteau First 35.. "Michaila"

All the very best with your project ... Dave

[Fortytwo]

Take your old chain plates to a machine shop and get new ones made out of the right stainless. Don't rebed your old chain plates.

[mitiempo]

According to CONTEST 33 sailboat on sailboatdata.com
it wasn't designed by Dick Zaal but by Uus van Essen.

[Michaila]

Just a quick point before I go. Strider2 will obviously have a mine of valuable information on these boats. He makes a very valid point about the chainplate corrosion. I found the chainplate below on my boat and had to run another U bolt alongside it with a big backing plate as a get me home repair. When I'm back in the UK I'll replace the lot for piece of mind. It'll cost I know, but I'll have to grin and bare it...