St Lucia to Grenadines Update Oct 2019

[Saleen411]

We are sitting on our chartered catamaran in Marigot Bay after having sailed south from St Lucia to Bequia, Tobago Cays, Mayreau, Union Island/Chatham Bay and back. We sailed past St Vincent in both directions as I was unable to procure an AK-47 from my “family" connection in St Lucia….Guido Rasta Mon Sarducci.

Overall it was a good trip…not great, and there were a few issues that may not have been accurately reflected in our Windward Island's cruising guide.

First off……MOST boat boys, as they like to be called, were generally a pain in the arse. Except for the vendors in Tobago Cays ( who were great) the ubiquitous boat boys lining the entrances to most harbors DO NOT take “no thank you” for an answer and will follow and badger you until you have to tell them to leave you alone or go away. Several were quite rude and WAY over the top in the harassment department.

IF you do choose to let a boat boy show you where to anchor or help with a line or mooring ball, the going rate is $15 EC for the service to “make dem happy”

IF you choose to buy a lobster from a “vendor", it will cost roughly 10 bucks a pound. We bought a 5 pound monster from Romeo in Tobago Cays and made 2 meals out of it. Sucker was so big, it wouldn’t fit in our largest pot.

Mooring balls were generally around 20 bucks, but we chose to anchor most of the time. The clearing in and out fees and park fees in all locations were all very reasonable. Tobago Cays was only 20 EC for the two of us.

As for our general impressions?……The islands are beautiful, some great scenery and the people were nice for the most part. The towns were generally ramshackle and litered….even Salt Whistle Bay. Trash all over the place. Same with Bequia believe it or not. Everybody writing about how great Bequia is and we were like “what”? Except for the very nice bars and restaurants on the southern shore, not much nice to see in Port Elizabeth.

We were told to give Soufriere a pass…so we anchored in the middle of the 2 Pitons the first night…..beautiful and we were the only boat there except for the crazy ass boat boy.

Clifton on Union Island was also a pass for us…..town wasn’t “picturesque" as written…not even close, however the mountainous skyline of Union Island was scenic.

Our favorite spot was Tobago Cays….we were weathered in there for 2 days and spent one extra night there on our return. We anchored near the reef and had some OK snorkeling…not great as it was REALLY windy and rainy for the first 2 days.

Speaking of weather……our second day sail was from the Pitons non stop across the St Lucia Channel, past St Vincent, across the Bequia Channel to Bequia. Our WX forecasts were way off almost every day. That particular day we had 23 to 40 knot winds and 8 foot seas….band after band of rain squalls and thunder storms. Forecast was for 15 Knots gusting to 20 with occasional rain showers….HA! The other days when forecasts were for 10 to 12 we were averaging 18 to 20….so you could almost double the winds and moisture forecasts and be very close to what you will really get.

I could write more but don’t wanna bore you all to death. I apologize that I have no exciting tales to regale you with.....no late night intruders, no petty theft and even our dinghy remained in our possession!!

I will be happy to share anything else if interested.

[sck5]

Did it ever occur to you to make friends with the boat boys? Smile and be friendly?

I always considered 15EC to be a pretty cheap way to buy their allegiance (and that is what you are doing - once you "adopt" one they will do whatever you ask including leave you alone or bring you ice or fresh bread from the shore.)

15 bucks is nothing considering I was SITTING ON A YACHT. A smile and some courtesy never killed anyone especially considering I dont want to come off as an entitled rich guy. (And we are ALL rich guys if we are on a boat when compared to people who might make 2-3k a year)

Remember, it is THEIR country and YOU are the visitor. But I have to say, if you thought Bequia was a bad place to be then I have to wonder what sort of sanitized playground you require to be happy. The islands have people on them who actually live there. They arent all-in resorts where somebody rakes the beach every night. I returned to Bequia quite a few times going up and down the islands. It is truly a great spot. Sorry you couldnt see it that way.

[Nicholson58]

I can empathize on the boat boys comments in some places. I think the PAYS boys in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica have it right. Nice, polite, helpful to a fault. They even remembered us and our names last time in. Ask them about tours. BTW 15 EC is about $6. We avoid buying reef fish from them but a pelagic species, OK.

On union, we head straight for Chatham Bay. Nice reef for dive or snorkeling on the north side. Clifton is not for us.

How was the sargassum? Glad you had a nice trip.

[Saleen411]

Originally Posted by Nicholson58

I can empathize on the boat boys comments in some places. I think the PAYS boys in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica have it right. Nice, polite, helpful to a fault. They even remembered us and our names last time in. Ask them about tours. BTW 15 EC is about $6. We avoid buying reef fish from them but a pelagic species, OK.

On union, we head straight for Chatham Bay. Nice reef for dive or snorkeling on the north side. Clifton is not for us.

How was the sargassum? Glad you had a nice trip.

We really liked Chatham....very sheltered and the water was really nice for snorkeling. We were amongst 14 boats anchored there.

Luckily, we haven't seen much sargassum....just patches here and there.

Thank you for the kind remark.

[tarian]

Originally Posted by sck5

Did it ever occur to you to make friends with the boat boys? Smile and be friendly?

I always considered 15EC to be a pretty cheap way to buy their allegiance (and that is what you are doing - once you "adopt" one they will do whatever you ask including leave you alone or bring you ice or fresh bread from the shore.)

15 bucks is nothing considering I was SITTING ON A YACHT. A smile and some courtesy never killed anyone especially considering I dont want to come off as an entitled rich guy. (And we are ALL rich guys if we are on a boat when compared to people who might make 2-3k a year)

Remember, it is THEIR country and YOU are the visitor. But I have to say, if you thought Bequia was a bad place to be then I have to wonder what sort of sanitized playground you require to be happy. The islands have people on them who actually live there. They arent all-in resorts where somebody rakes the beach every night. I returned to Bequia quite a few times going up and down the islands. It is truly a great spot. Sorry you couldnt see it that way.

Have to agree
the OPs remarks about the boat boys is rather poor, I never imagine any one on a sail boat as Rich but hey if you've got a charter or a Yacht $6 is is that bad to give a local who is trying to give a service
I appreciate if your not from that part of the world it might seem daunting having them follow you , but this is their tradition and we are guests in their country , a little respect and communication is all it takes .
But the rest of the tale was a nice read

[DMCantor]

Too bad you passed up Soufriere. It is one of our favorite anchorages in the Caribbean, and we have made several friends with local people there. It's a very authentic Caribbean town, not ruined by cruise ship passengers. We sometimes stop on St. Vincent, and have never had any trouble whatsoever.

[Taipe]

Some 40 years ago after heaving to throughout two days of stormy weather, I came limping into Roseau, Dominica one peaceful morning on a sea breeze that had disappeared hours ago. I had two full length parallel rips in the mainsail that my mate and I had partially repaired and an engine that refused to respond. We were still 3 to 4 miles out on a becalmed sea with no wind, doing about 1 knot, the only power coming from a small outboard on an inflatable tied to the side of our 25' Folkboat. I was half asleep in the cockpit and my mate asleep below, when two lads of about 16 years age suddenly leaped aboard without the usual introductions, while vehemently arguing with one another over which one deserved my business. In a fully surprised state, my instinct put me at once upon my feet, and was about to clear them off my boat for my own protection if nothing else, when I realized they had swam out all the way from shore. Of the two, the larger was insufferably rude but I was hardly in a position to make an attempt at knocking him overboard, not only for the scuffle that might pursue, but also because he might not have had the stamina to swim safely back to shore, wherein I could likely be at the very least, charged with accessory to murder. So, I finally got the two of them to calm down by stating that when we arrived onshore, if I wanted any help I would ask for it, and that only good manners on their part might win the day. Had they only asked permission to come aboard, with a weapon near at hand, I cautiously would have allowed them aboard and we could have even had a good chat or two. As it turned out, after dropping the hook and the customs inspection concluded, I paid the going rate to the more polite of the two to keep watch and my mate and I were about to head for town to pratique for visas with immigration and see the sights. But then, another argument started with two taxi drivers arriving at about the same time to inform us that we must have private transport to immigration, as if it were out of a rule book no one had yet bothered to write. They began yelling epithets at one another, reproaching the other for encroaching upon the rights of the other, having no right to write his own rules of free enterprise, etc., etc. while they seemed to hardly notice we had already set off to exercise our legs with a peaceful stroll for the short mile or two into town. Of course, being the first boat to show up on the horizon that morning and taking several hours to make it ashore, our presence had been alerted with plenty of time prior to arrival. And, the hurricane from the previous summer had again wiped out most of the dock that normally extends out about a half-kilometer from the beachhead, so the lack of passenger ship business had left many people hurting for tourist trade. Like many liveaboard cruisers, I avoid the commercial tourist traps and prefer to open the wallet elsewhere in more meaningful ways. But, I thought to share this story to paint the picture and ask if it is common in the eastern Caribbean for these free-lance types to swim out a distance from shore and jump aboard without prior introduction.

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by Taipe

Some 40 years ago after heaving to throughout two days of stormy weather, I came limping into Roseau, Dominica one peaceful morning on a sea breeze that had disappeared hours ago.

and ask if it is common in the eastern Caribbean for these free-lance types to swim out a distance from shore and jump aboard without prior introduction.

No it is not common. Today they ride a SUP or kayak. We cease to be surprised by what you might find enterprising island folk to ride or how far to sea in terrible sea state they might venture. Sometimes, to get a lobster or other treasure used to extract a few ‘clams’ from the boaties.

I was offered a day fishing with one of our favorite boat boys in Dominica. Less than $100 US. We had no time but it’s on my list this season. It will be from a Piroge dragging bait. It will be a blast.

[Flagman101]

I charter in st-Vincent on a regular base.
Yes the boat boys are there and can be insistent. But I have never seen one who was rude or harassing.
When a boat boy whom I have never delt with comes alongside I always talk to them.
Offer them a beer. Remember their names. Buy stuff.

[Belezar]

So pay the bribe if you want p&q and no trouble later? While there is some practical wisdom to that, I struggle with knowing every single bay I am going to be harassed until I pay someone for generally nothing I want or need. They can be helpful at times, and I do buy things occasionally, but I have had them be rude and having to tell 3-5 of them no every day is tiresome at best. And you can get stuck in arguments between them. The French islands don’t really have that issue, probably as they are part of France and have a social security system.

[Saleen411]

Originally Posted by Flagman101

I charter in st-Vincent on a regular base.
Yes the boat boys are there and can be insistent. But I have never seen one who was rude or harassing.
When a boat boy whom I have never delt with comes alongside I always talk to them.
Offer them a beer. Remember their names. Buy stuff.

It wasn't my intent to turn this into a "boat boy" thread, however, I will elucidate a bit since my earlier comments apparently didn't sit well with some.

For the record...our issue has NOTHING to do with money....it's about unwanted harassment. Also for the record....we were told by several LOCALS that they were not happy about the boat boy issue.

At the Pitons we were followed by a boat boy who refused to take no thanks for an answer. He kept yelling 'follow me". NO THANK YOU. "This is what I do, follow me!" NO THANK YOU, we don't need any help. This went on for several minutes and then he put his boat in between us and the mooring ball I chose to pick up. " Just pay me and I will help you!" NO THANK YOU, could you please move your boat out of the way"...."This is what I do !!!" The boat boy FINALLY left as the Park Rangers approached. The Rangers were NOT happy with our harassment and expressed their displeasure.

In Bequia I pre-arranged a mooring ball owned by the mechanic who was going to fix our broken generator. A super loud middle aged boat guy intercepted us and proceeded to yell that we couldn't use that mooring ball and that i HAD to follow him. Again, he would not listen to me and continued his yelling. I had our mechanic on the phone and he told me to tell this guy to get the hell out of the way.

Long story short....our mechanic who is a life long resident of Bequia and a great guy was PISSED when he showed up. He said " We HAVE to get rid of guys like him!" He said guys like him give our island a bad name. He said this particular boat guy is "rude and obnoxious" and is a known a$$hole....which is why he was fired from his job as a cop.

That's just 2 examples of OUR experiences.

On a positive note, which I mentioned in my OP, are the boat guys and vendors in Tobago Cays. These guys were nice and polite. After I said no thank you, they just followed at a distance and waited for us to anchor before approaching and asking if we needed anything. This is the guy I bought the 5 LBS lobster from.

No harassment and no BS.... just a bunch of nice helpful guys that are more than happy to provide a service if needed or wanted. BTW, these guys could provide ANYTHING!...from lobsters, fish, ice, baguettes to beach BBQS. They also knew the weather!. "Make sure you have at least 30 meters of chain out captain" "Gonna be a blow tonight with winds over 30 knots and lots of rain".

He was exactly right.

[jim King]

During our two week cruise from St Lucia to Grenada we had no problems with the frequent encounters with the boat boys who greeted us and tried to steer us to their mooring balls. We just gave them a friendly wave and a "thanks, but we're dropping anchor". Only one time did one of them then follow us and advise us where best to anchor. He was very helpful and didn't even ask for a fee for his services (which in hind sight we should have offered).
BTW if you missed Sandy Island on the west side of Carriacou you missed one of the most beautiful, pristine reefs to snorkel over in all the Genadines.
Cheers,
Jim

[Saleen411]

Originally Posted by jim King

During our two week cruise from St Lucia to Grenada we had no problems with the frequent encounters with the boat boys who greeted us and tried to steer us to their mooring balls. We just gave them a friendly wave and a "thanks, but we're dropping anchor". Only one time did one of them then follow us and advise us where best to anchor. He was very helpful and didn't even ask for a fee for his services (which in hind sight we should have offered).
BTW if you missed Sandy Island on the west side of Carriacou you missed one of the most beautiful, pristine reefs to snorkel over in all the Genadines.
Cheers,
Jim

Unfortunately we didn't make it to Carriacou as we lost a few days due to bad weather. Sandy Island was on our list.

I forgot to mention that our Bequia friend said that the last couple of months have been extremely slow which made the locals more desperate for cash.

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by jim King

During our two week cruise from St Lucia to Grenada we had no problems with the frequent encounters with the boat boys who greeted us and tried to steer us to their mooring balls. We just gave them a friendly wave and a "thanks, but we're dropping anchor". Only one time did one of them then follow us and advise us where best to anchor. He was very helpful and didn't even ask for a fee for his services (which in hind sight we should have offered).
BTW if you missed Sandy Island on the west side of Carriacou you missed one of the most beautiful, pristine reefs to snorkel over in all the Genadines.
Cheers,
Jim

Sandy is well known and a bit too popular. I think you are required to use a mooring and they have always been packed. (4 balls). We put our anchor down in Tyrell Bay. If the weather is settled you can venture south to White Island by dinghy. There are a lot of reefs along the way there. The reef at White had an abundance of Lion fish if you are a hunter. In Tyrell, there are two dive companies. We have dived several times with Lumba Dive. Each side of the bay has a nice long drift dive around 20-30 feet through nice corals. Three or more other deep dive trips are run in the marine park. These are some of the best. Scattered reef, wrecks, and other features bring Lion fish into the bay. Lumba Dive sponsors a cut rate dive/snorkel group trip to keep the Lions out of the reefs.