Review Lifepo4 installation diagram please

[CaptainRivet]

Hi all,
so I finally finished the installation wiring diagram of my 840AH 12V LIthium house bank on my catamaran.
Could you please review the diagram.

BMS:

I use the Electrodacus BMS which controls everything via the remote on/off of the source and has full control over the load/charge on cell level. its also current free means upgrading system is no problem.T hats why you don't find any big chunky and expensive high current relays or SSRs.

Well the cat doesn't even have a main fuse yet, so while getting the lithium installed I also clean up the french/UK/spainish "electro install cooperation" called rats nest....


All fuses 100A and above are NH 0-2 fuses and main battery fuse is a chunky 630A NH3 fuse which also work as high current off/on switch, just pull or insert the fuse with the puller tool (located fixed in the fuse area)...cheap,reliable, sturdy, longlivity and made for the high current constant use. The holders are quite expensive but you can get them on ebay for a steal, just bougt 5xNh0 and 8x NH1 holder plus a 630A NH3 fuse for 60Euro...never used spares from a factory that got knocked down...you get one class T fuse holder for that...


Some Background:

The 230V diagram is not included, I need to finish it first but that is mainly legacy system with a small change in a different main 230V cable upgraded from 3x2,5mm to 3x6mm to be able to handle 6kw and change main 25A breaker to 32A version and a seperate 16A plug+fuse just for the induction cooktop.
The catamaran is setup to be fully self sufficent and even when I am in a marina I don't plan to hook up to shorepower/grid. The gridcharger is actually planned as backup to charge via a portable Honda gasoline generator that is then simply pluged into the shorepower connector. So i am ok with flippng a manual switch to switch to real grid and adjusting the power assist level accordingly if I plug into shorepower. thats why I chose the multiplus and not the 1000Euro more expensive Quattro which could handle that automatically, hardly ever need it and if manual operation is ok.

I am running a full electric galley on my catamaran which is the main power draw but only for short periods of time. This consist of a 3500W 3 burner Bartscher 3512 commercial grade induction cooktop and a Panasonic Mircowave/Convection oven/Steamer combo with 1100-1400W. Mostly only 2 burner of the cooktop will be used, so thats max 2200W draw= 200A which the victron multiplus can handle alone.
But sometimes I will use all 2 or 3 burners plus the convection oven and then I need 2500W+1400W=4kw so 350-380A for maybe 15min max and then I will boost the multiplus via its power assist function and use my legacy 3500W HF inverter as fake grid. This supplies 10A or 2200W (adjustable 4-16A, but 10A will be standard) and multiplus regonized AC input and its transfer switch routes the 10A AC 230V through and the rest the Victron will deliver via power assist what is needed above 10A or 2300W. To prevent the multiplus from using part of the fake grid 230V its charger is shut off via Temp input automatically when the Edecoa inverter is on and delivering 230V.
Battery pack is3p4S 12V 840AH measured capacity and bulid with 10mmx20mm thick tinned plated cooper busbars to be able to deliver continous 500A. Means I can fire up Cooktop and stove to max 3500+1400W=4,9kw and still have some margin to 500A.
both inverter togehter can deliver 3500W+2400W=5,9kw if needed.

Major charge source are 3 Bifacial solar panels with each 445W=1335W each panel connected to its own Victron 50/100 Mppt.
DC-to-DC alternator setup: ENgines are new D2-50F with the new 115A mitsubishi alternators, which deliver around 60A cont.
THe legacy charging system works the follwing: if any of the 2 engnies running the Victron Cytrix battery combiner combines both FLA banks BB and STB and charges it.
So I use 2x 30A Victron DC-To-DC charger in parallel connected to the STB engine room busbar. So if each of the engine=one alternator runs, both DC-to-DC charger wirk too and the one alternator is maxed out as one can do 60A cont. savely. If I use engine for a longer periode of time is mainly 1 engine that runs (especially because I am overpowered 2x50hp instead 2x20hp one engine will always work). if both engines run its still the 60A charge into lifepo4, loose some charge capbility but thats ok and won't happen often. Main goal is to have the alternator running savely and as cheap as possible when motoring and maxing one alternator out if one is running longer periods eg motorsailing...


Thank you!!!


PS.:
At the moment I keep the quite new 2x90AH FLA Starter BB and STB 300AH FLA Hybrid house/starter till I have some experience with the Lifepo4 install and system runs stable. Then I will delete all FLA except of one 90AH FLA starter per engine to offset the 70kg+ weight gain per hull for the upgrade from 3 Zylinder 20hp Volvo 2020 to the 4 cylinder 50hp D2-50F engine and the bigger saildrives. Lifepo4 bank is 60kg installed midships now, 120kg FLA above the engines in the rear engine rooms will be deleted then so balance is as new from factory but with upgrade overpowered engines (former owner done that swap and sold it with 19h on both new engines).

[CaptainRivet]

part 2 of the diagram, old and additional distribution panel

[Baronkrak]

Originally Posted by CaptainRivet

Hi all,..
..Could you please review the diagram....

Nice drawing. I would:
Have the 630A fuse wired between the battery and the shunts.
Have a fuse between the inverter and the 6000HM resistor.
Make sure that it cannot be reverse current across the Battery Protect.
Wiring to Cyrix, 300A/50mVshunt and switches could be clearer.
The BMS picture could be the right way around.

I am not a great fan of one battery, one BMS boats. No redundancy.

[CaptainRivet]

[QUOTE=Baronkrak;3588849]Nice drawing. I would:
Have the 630A fuse wired between the battery and the shunts.
Have a fuse between the inverter and the 6000HM resistor.
Make sure that it cannot be reverse current across the Battery Protect.
Wiring to Cyrix, 300A/50mVshunt and switches could be clearer.
The BMS picture could be the right way around.

I am not a great fan of one battery, one BMS boats. No redundancy.[/[QUOTE=Baronkrak;3588849]

Thank you.
Do I miss any fuses in the engine rooms? 200A fuse is ok as main starter fuse, cable is 50sqmm2 from the alternator/starter?

Shunt and then fuses is required setup by BMS and on the positive terminal too.
600ohm resistor also works as fuse on this tiny cat5 cables used for remote turn on/off, no additional fuse needed.

What you mean Citrix, 300A shunt and switches could be clearer?

There is a lot redundancy: it’s a 3p4S and 4 cells are working spare, can easily reconfigure the bank to eg 2p4S in case a cell or 4 dies….BMS is 130Euro, I have 2 spare which are plug&play.
It’s one master in the system that controls everything based on cell level monitoring and does real battery management. Don‘t know any BMS that can be daisy chained with a master and slaves. So having multiple standalone BMS they can and will interfere and they can only work on total battery voltage which is not sufficient for a LifePo4…yes drop in work like this and that is their major drawback.
2nd 4S banks hardly need a BMS as the cells tend to stay much closer especially if your cells are matched and properly top balanced, so there is not much management needed. 8s =24V need a BMS as cells tend to differ significantly.
Best is a 1p4S or 1P8S bank with one BMS which as big cell capacity as you need, Winston supplies a single cell up to 1000AH which is a 1300AH cell in reality…
Why didn‘t I do that…simple costs my 840Ah = 12x272AH grade A and matched were 1800Euro delivered to the cat available in 2 weeks from a German supplier giving also 3 years warranty, Winston 700AH would have been 4200Euro with 3month+x delivery time from China and messing with Spanish customs…

[Baronkrak]

Originally Posted by CaptainRivet

…

Do I miss any fuses in the engine rooms? 200A fuse is ok as main starter fuse, cable is 50sqmm2 from the alternator/starter?
May be controversial but easy to modify.

Shunt and then fuses is required setup by BMS and on the positive terminal too.
A bad idea to leave shunt's unprotected.

600ohm resistor also works as fuse on this tiny cat5 cables used for remote turn on/off, no additional fuse needed.
The wiring to the resistor is protected by a 355A fuse.

What you mean Citrix, 300A shunt and switches could be clearer?
Including the Battery Protect the wiring diagram could be clearer.

There is a lot redundancy:
What ever, your system is vulnerable to a total black out which is not acceptable on a boat.