Wire size?

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by Folie

Pcmm--- interesting idea. Thank you.


So to clarify--- this heavier ground wire goes the length of the mast and is "cut" and "junctioned" with connectors at the SteamingLite and at rhe SpreaderLites. Since the mast is down I can do a good job and solder these connections- but still- wouldn't homeruns be better? OOOOOHHHHH-- wait---- these LEDs are picky I think-- if you don't get the wires right they flat out don't work, I THINK. With home runs, you can just switch the wires, but with one groundwire-- I think you may be in trouble. WhatDoYouThink?

I wouldn't solder, but I would use a butt connector ( one that reduces from a larger gauge on one side so you have room). I would actually make the connection so that the "joint" is above the mid point so the pigtail from the ground travels down to the fixture ( to keep water from travelling down the wire to the joint!) when I build my mast cables, I usually build it with a piece of small diameter rope into the bundle so that the rope takes the weight of the wire, not the wire itself! This also makes it easier to "hang" and chase the wire into the conduit, you're pulling on the rope not the wire!

[Folie]

Originally Posted by skipmac

Good point about ABYC. What about duplex wire? Would that permit smaller gauge under ABYC?

Physical reasons??? Like-- pulling too hard and snapping???

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by Folie

So to clarify--- this heavier ground wire goes the length of the mast and is "cut" and "junctioned" with connectors at the SteamingLite and at rhe SpreaderLites. Since the mast is down I can do a good job and solder these connections- but still- wouldn't homeruns be better? OOOOOHHHHH-- wait---- these LEDs are picky I think-- if you don't get the wires right they flat out don't work, I THINK. With home runs, you can just switch the wires, but with one groundwire-- I think you may be in trouble. WhatDoYouThink?

Yes, LEDs care about polarity.

Pro tip: test all mast wiring and lights while the mast is still on the horizontal and fixtures not yet screwed/sealed to the mast. Then clearly label the wire ends at the mast base.

A splice around the steaming light isn't a problem as long as the splice itself is never subjected to a physical load. ABYC sez crimp please, you can then solder up the crimp if you like.

Best idea for waterproofing is to be able to slide a generous piece of adhesive-lined heatshrink over the completed splice. I've also had good results by gooing up the splice with 5200 or some other glue/sealant, then shrinking a piece of normal heatshrink down over that.

That tip from pcmm about including a piece of rope in the bundle is a good idea.