Useful 12vdc Devices

[rgleason]

The purpose of this thread is to provide a place for useful Electrical Devices that can solve particular problems in a typical 12/24 vdc system.

John61ct has provided several such devices and so has Maine Sail. I will add those to the next posts, with Manufacturer, Device Name, description of purpose/use, why it is useful, and perhaps a link and an image.

[dzhiurgis]

Bought this recently. Used only once, but worked very well.

[Steven UK]

12v soldering iron, though I prefer the lighter fuel versions. But when working around flammable materials in tight quarters the 12v version suffices.

12v Starter motors are useful...

12v dewalt tool battery charger...

[rgleason]

How would you like to have a solid state relay that uses very little current and provides a way to join two batteries, and provide an excite current for your alternator, if either battery is dead, with optional battery combine feature. Here is a new way to think about wiring DC charging equipment to your two battery banks: See Wiring Diagram
Dual Rectifiers Solar, Alternator, Charger, Wind, Water ----> Dual Rectifier ----> charge 2 Banks.
Single Rectifiers Keep in mind that this is basically a one way device used to charge an auxiliary or reserve bank.
Both are "ideal high current diodes" that are not like the old ones with a big voltage drop.

There are other applications/devices see the Summary Page for Relays

One device I am particularly interested in is the Voltage Sensitive Relays LVD (Low Voltage Disconnect Relay) which would:

1. Protect the house bank from discharge below 12.2 volts (or 50%SOC when the batteries are new)
2. Protection of electronics from Voltage Transients and Low or High Voltages.
3. Provide Short circuit protection

Note that this is a uni-directional device, so no charging devices can be on this circuit (alternator, charger, solar, wind, water, etc). It is basically good for your DC Panel.
They are more expensive than some other devices.


This is the Dual Rectified Isolator wiring diagram for two battery banks, mentioned above

[rgleason]

HD-Series Heavy Duty Selector Battery Switch with AFD 3003
Switches isolated battery banks to all loads or combines battery banks to all loads

• Includes AFD (Alternator Field Disconnect)
• Make-before-break contacts
• Ignition protected

Breaks the Alternator Field wire when Switch to Off. About $132


" AFD is constructed in such a way that the AFD switch does not close until slightly after the main switch contacts have closed and it opens slightly before the main switch contacts open. This insures that there will always be a path for the alternator's output current when the alternator is producing power. The field disconnect will only work on alternators with an external regulator"
https://www.bluesea.com/resources/91


This could be an alternative to installing a ZapStop or other protective device on the Alternator to protect the diodes from someone switching through the OFF on the Battery Switch.

With some attention to charging SW#2 Battery#2 or "Reserve", it could take the place of wiring the Alternator output to the House Positive Busbar and installing an SI ACR Relay Combiner (about $75-$100).

Note: Moving the Alternator output closer to the house is important to improve charging.


For an Alternator Service Switch, it might be a good idea to have it be an On-Off with AFD
HD-Series Heavy Duty On-Off Battery Switch with AFD 3001 $120
e-Series On-Off Battery Switch with AFD 9004e $70


But this introduces a voltage drop to the field wire.

[rgleason]

Sterling Power ProLatch-R Combining Relay 160a $118
Two primary features -low power draw and programability. It is ideal for use with low wattage solar arrays because it draws almost no power when closed.

ProLatch-R locks into position (latch) and will not consume power by staying-on / being closed (uses only 0.5mA) ideal for use with small solar arrays or wind power.

Trigger 'On' voltages 10.7V - 14.8V. 'off' voltages 10.4V - 14.5V.

Uni & Bidirectional - When the ProLatch-R is installed between 2 batteries (e.g. engine starter and auxiliary) it works as a bidirectional voltage sensitive relay (i.e. The trigger voltage on the input or output will activate the relay).
Battery Protection Mode - The ProLatch-R prevents the over charging or over discharging of batteries. In order to prevent over charging, the relay disengages at a preset voltage or a voltage you specify (e.g. 14.4V).

Sterling ProConnect Combiner/VSR 160a $88

Combine voltage programmable between 12.8 and 13.8 volts, can be user defined. bidirectional or uni direction. single bank excite sensing, very simple, disconnect or isolate the banks when the banks drop below 13.0V.
suggested that all charge sources feed the large bank first to help minimize any chance of relay cycling.


Blue Sea 7610 SI Automatic Combining Relay ACR 120a $$76
Simple and Reliable. Easy to wire.

Also includes a trigger port called "SI" or "start isolation" which opens the relay or isolates the Start Bank from the House Bank when the starting button is depressed. Start Isolation is an especially handy feature for vessels with solar power.

Allows temporary isolation of house loads from engine circuit during engine cranking to protect sensitive electronics (only if alt wired to start battery and House panel is on the House battery)

Automatically combines battery banks during the charging cycle and isolates under discharge
12/24 Volt auto ranging voltage input
Supports up to 120a Alternators.
The combine voltage was recently raised to 13.6 the voltage settings are not user programable.
How much current does this use? What is the voltage drop? Perhaps it does not matter since it is just combining the Starter Battery.


For combining a start battery, with the alternator output connected to the house, which one is favored?

[rgleason]

Main Positive Busbar

1. MRBF 3 Stud Mounted with common bus Blue Seas #5196
2. The three fuse studs have 250a, 175a, 175a MRBF Fuses.
3. I need to make room for another 100a fuse.

I propose to add a MRBF 1 Stud Terminal #5191 to the 4th supply bolt so that this can be used with the MRBF 100a fuse.

The #5191 mounts on a 3/8" (M10) battery stud normally.
The 3 stud #5196 has 5/16" -18 bolts and the 4th bolt will be used for the #5191 1 Stud Terminal. This bolt will have the following on it:
1. #5191 1 stud terminal.
2. Main supply cable from House Battery.
The bolt stud is .75" long.


What if any problems are there with this approach?
Is there a better alternative?

[rgleason]

Waterproof enclosure.

Because the majority of my wiring will be against the port bulkhead in the port cockpit seat locker (also the 40a charger and some navigation electronics on the starboard cockpit locker bulkhead.

I've been advised by a good friend who knows about these things, that I need to install everything in a waterproof boxes with wp glands and wires running up into the bottom of the enclosure.

Does anyone have some suggestions for one of these boxes and some pictures as examples.

Don't know as I can mount the stirling charger in a water proof box as it puts out heat.

Thank you.

[rgleason]

Found these. I think a clear cover would be better. Are there better manufacturer's?

http://www.integraenclosures.com/sup...ng=1&x=34&y=22

[rgleason]

http://www.integraenclosures.com/sup...ng=1&x=34&y=22

[rgleason]

Blue Sea 7748 Safety Hub 150
- Four 30A-200A MIDI/AMI fused circuits for main circuits, panel, 3way, etc
- Six 24-hour 1A-30A ATO/ATC fused circuits for bilge pumps, etc.
- Positive input stud
- Neg input stud
- Neg output connections
- Ignition Protected
- IP66 water protection
- ABYC/USCG cert
- Circuit Identification


This would be a space saver, but is it suitable for 2/0 cable in my installation?
Answer: Unfortunately the MIDI/AMI fuses don't go up to 250a, just to 200a.

We should use MRBF fusing.

[barnakiel]

A cigarette plug 12/5 Volt step down.


Charges moviles, tablets, laptops, cameras, etc. No need for inverters / AC chargers anymore.


Like this:
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1cI5pM...Xq6xXFXXXl.jpg


1 to 5 USD in local Chinese shops.


barnakiel

[barnakiel]

GU 5.3 / MR16 LED bulbs.


Like these:
https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/...Dtk/s-l225.jpg


3 to 5 USD each from Carrefour (Wall Mart elsewhere).


Way cheaper and better Q than what we buy in chandleries.


b.

[sailorboy1]

The 2 most useful 12v accessories I’ve installed are:

- USB charging strip at the salon table for cell phone and pads etc
- small 400w pure sine wave inverter for tv and small loads

Hard wired both to main panel with own breaker

Also my 12v WiFi booster antenna has but pretty useful

[barnakiel]

A 12 Volt wifi router with a USB port.


Like this one:


https://static.tp-link.com/TD-W8968_...537399234v.jpg


Except that do get a newer ac/5Ghz capable model rather than the outdated 2.4 only one.


With a USB port you get 'like' NAT storage, media access, etc. etc.


No need for power bricks either.



Cheers,
b.