Replacing solenoid; is it special?

[wgerstmyer]

Hi all
Here’s a pic of the (assumed) solenoid to my windlass and deck foot switch. Deck switch has been acting finicky lately so I boat-yoga-ed my way into the anchor locker and saw the high level of corrosion at both small-wire connections (middle of pic). So I think that is the problem. I’ll bet this is original so 1985.
My question is what kind of solenoid can replace it or would something generic work? Thanks, Will
https://postimg.cc/SJrZms68

[wgerstmyer]

<a href='https://postimg.cc/SJrZms68' target='_blank'><img src='https://i.postimg.cc/SJrZms68/IMG-0928.jpg' border='0' alt='IMG-0928'/></a>

[deblen]

You need a 12volt? Continuous Duty solenoid.
Cole Hersee,or similar,would probably do.
https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-2.../dp/B000Y82X4E


https://www.littelfuse.com/products/...nd-relays.aspx


https://www.amazon.com/Continuous-So...4210860&sr=8-4

[GordMay]

Your pictured solenoid is a standard SPST, Normally Open solenoid, of unknown amperage rating & voltage.
The linked Cole-Hersee solenoid is only rated 85A [12V], whereas your windlass may require a higher amperage, which they also make [as do others].
➥ https://www.colehersee.com.au/switches/solenoids/

[Lodesman]

No expert here, but I imagine it has to be rated for the draw of the windlass - your manual should have that info.

[Bowdrie]

Others have already posted about the Cole-Hersee solenoids.
If doing some internet searching, take a few minutes to peruse their product lines.
They make all kinds of gizmos that can find use on a boat, in particular a line of push-pull and push-button switches with O-ring sealed shafts and silver-plated contacts in brass housings, good for marine usage.
Being able to walk into a local auto parts chain store, (like NAPA,) can sometimes be easier than dealing with a "marine" store.

[Scrimshaw4]

Corrosion is definitely an issue for the windlass solenoids, since most are placed in areas close to the chain locker. After replacing my corroded one I coated the entire replacement assembly including the relays and connections with liquid tape. Some may say I'm hiding a potential problem but after 10 years it still works fine. JMHO

[wgerstmyer]

I do indeed need 130 amps nominal so the 200 amp continuous solenoids seem right. Do I take it that the quality of the Cole Hersee is worth the price difference with Mayspare ($75 v $18?

[wrwakefield]

Not knowing which windlass you have, is this an opportunity to make it reversing with a different solenoid? [Not all are reversible…]

I always gravity drop the anchor, but sometimes power out is handy for small adjustments.

Just a thought in case it applies.

Cheers, Bill

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by wgerstmyer

I do indeed need 130 amps nominal so the 200 amp continuous solenoids seem right. Do I take it that the quality of the Cole Hersee is worth the price difference with Mayspare ($75 v $18?

I have no experience /w Mayspare; but, at that price, you could afford to carry a spare [or 2].

[Bycrick]

Not all the solenoids that look the same have the same connections. Yes, the two big studs are the switched in and out. But the small terminals vary:
1. Only 1 small terminal used for the coil. Other side of coil is case-ground.
2. Both small terminals used for the coil.
3. One terminal used for the coil. Other side of coil is case ground. Second small terminal is connected so that it has 12v from the switched circuit only when the solenoid was engaged. Otherwise completely isolated. I found this on some Westerbeke Gensets.

Don’t assume that they’re all the same.

Lofrans used to sell some mercury-wetted relays that were just perfect for a windlass, where you have lots of on-off switching. Not cheap, but I’ve never seen on fail. I presume they buy them from somebody, and you could find them cheaper.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by wgerstmyer

I do indeed need 130 amps nominal so the 200 amp continuous solenoids seem right. Do I take it that the quality of the Cole Hersee is worth the price difference with Mayspare ($75 v $18?

My guess is if you remove the wires, clean that up well, including the wire ends etc, dab some paint on any of the rusted areas on the body, make sure the terminals are clean and coated, the solenoid is fine. I've seen far worse really.

Of course just getting a new one, and the right one is a fine way to go also. Keep the old cleaned up one as spare.

[Bowdrie]

IIRC, doesn't ABYC specify that the +wire that energizes the coil must come from a dedicated circuit breaker?
That you just can't tap-off the inlet cable to power the switch/coil.

[wgerstmyer]

Yes, I had hoped to clean up the existing one but one of the small terminals I think will be toast. But you’re right, I’ll have it as a spare.
Regarding which solenoid I might have, I am trying to replicate it all. (Curiously enough, to me, I see heavy cables that look reversed (red and black) which will take more research). I am looking at the same image you are: I will duplicate the 4 terminals as is which I see has the thin red wire on one small terminal being attached to the terminal with the heavy red wire. Any hints as to how to determine what kind I currently have?
I don’t have a brand name or manual for the solenoid. Hoping for the best with duplication of the wiring (if acceptable when I read the new manual) and Amazon will let me return if I get it wrong.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by wgerstmyer

Yes, I had hoped to clean up the existing one but one of the small terminals I think will be toast. But you’re right, I’ll have it as a spare.
Regarding which solenoid I might have, I am trying to replicate it all. (Curiously enough, to me, I see heavy cables that look reversed (red and black) which will take more research). I am looking at the same image you are: I will duplicate the 4 terminals as is which I see has the thin red wire on one small terminal being attached to the terminal with the heavy red wire. Any hints as to how to determine what kind I currently have?
I don’t have a brand name or manual for the solenoid. Hoping for the best with duplication of the wiring (if acceptable when I read the new manual) and Amazon will let me return if I get it wrong.

What windlass is it? Look for the specs on the windlass, it should show amps. If it's a 1500 watt windlass, but old and no longer sold, look at the specs for the new model that is 1500 watts, that should get you there. Using P=I x V, a 1500 watt windlass is 125 amps. There should be a breaker somewhere also? Probably 150 amp.

OOPs, never mind, I see you figured out the amps!