Electric Galleys

[sameagle13]

For the liveaboards that switched to electric cooking on your boats (induction cooktops, convection ovens, instapot, etc.); did you need to switch to a 24V system to effectively run the appliances?

[LoudMusic]

Originally Posted by sameagle13

For the liveaboards that switched to electric cooking on your boats (induction cooktops, convection ovens, instapot, etc.); did you need to switch to a 24V system to effectively run the appliances?

The appliances tend to be AC, high voltage. So you'd want an appropriate inverter for your batteries and chosen appliances. We have a 12v house bank and 120vAC appliances. This is very common and there are a lot of inverters to choose from.

I'm not aware of DC electric cooking equipment - that would require VERY high amps and really big cables. It's probably cheaper in wiring alone to run through an inverter and even have a second backup inverter

[sameagle13]

Thanks, yeah I meant running it through an inverter like the Victron 12/3000/120 or something similar. Was just curious if a 12V system can push the wattage needed through such an inverter to power the appliances effectively. Most of the common electric appliances I see folks using require 1800 watts. I read something about 12V systems max at 1200 watts regardless of the inverter wattage rating. Not sure if that's true or not. I'd rather just stay with my current 12V setup.

[Simi 60]

We are a predominantly 240v boat.
Battery's are wired as 24v and some things are 24v (toilets, pumps)
We have small 12v inverters where needed (instruments and some lighting)
Everything else is 240v and running through a 5000va victron (multiple fridge freezer, kitchen appliances, tv, PC, hws )

Stove is gas, not running Genset to cook and solar doesn't work at dinner time.

[more]

Originally Posted by sameagle13

For the liveaboards that switched to electric cooking on your boats (induction cooktops, convection ovens, instapot, etc.); did you need to switch to a 24V system to effectively run the appliances?

go with 24v minimum and small 24v to 12v converter for nmea 2000 or 24 Volt to 12 Volt NMEA 2000 Power Adaptor, all on boat work like 12v except you must exchange light bulb.normally windlass 24v,autopilot 24v you must pick 24v equipment. cheap transfer for project boat or new

[Simon.Sails]

I run a 1500W inverter on a 12v system, and chose smaller appliances for that reason. Whether you have a 12 or 24v system shouldn't matter, it's the discharge rate of your battery that does. My 200ah LifePo4 (2x 100ah in parallel) allows a 30s 200a discharge rate, or 160a continuous.

So 160ax12v = 1920W, or easily enough to run the inverter at max power. I have a small rice cooker, water heater, single-stove electric oven all below 1.5kW, so no problems as long as I don't run them simultaneously.

This should easily scale up if you add a larger inverter and more batteries. I would never go back to gas stoves.

[s/v Jedi]

We changed from 12V to 24V for the electric galley. Much easier to create a house bank desired capacity with cells in series only as you have twice as many, plus of course you only have half the current for the same power.

We have two 24V Multiplus 3000 units in parallel. We also have the small Victron 24V 375VA inverters for each cabin for small loads like a fan during the night when the big system is switched off.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

.

We have two 24V Multiplus 3000 units in parallel. We also have the small Victron 24V 375VA inverters for each cabin for small loads like a fan during the night when the big system is switched off.

Why do you switch it off?

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

Why do you switch it off?

Presumably to avoid the high idle draw from the big inverters. I went with the 2000VA Victron Multiplus for my setup instead of the 3000 for that reason (idle draw is half of the bigger unit). It might be slightly limiting at some point, but nothing I really intend to run on the inverter needs the bigger unit, so I don't think I'm missing much.

[sailormed]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

Why do you switch it off?

My guess “Standby power consumption”.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by rslifkin

Presumably to avoid the high idle draw from the big inverters.

I would have thought big inverter - big battery.

Our 5000 has been on 24/7 for 5 years, but our refrigeration is 240v so needs to be.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

I would have thought big inverter - big battery.

Our 5000 has been on 24/7 for 5 years, but our refrigeration is 240v so needs to be.

Generally yes, but you still have to produce the power to recharge the batteries. And Jedi is on a monohull sailboat, so he's likely limited in how much solar he can fit (plus shading issues). If he's solar limited, than burning 30 - 40 watts on inverter idle power all night may add up enough to be worth some additional systems complexity to reduce it.

[LoudMusic]

Originally Posted by sameagle13

Thanks, yeah I meant running it through an inverter like the Victron 12/3000/120 or something similar. Was just curious if a 12V system can push the wattage needed through such an inverter to power the appliances effectively. Most of the common electric appliances I see folks using require 1800 watts. I read something about 12V systems max at 1200 watts regardless of the inverter wattage rating. Not sure if that's true or not. I'd rather just stay with my current 12V setup.

As Simon.Sails pointed out it's reliant on the specs of your batteries. I have four lithium batteries that can output 100A each, so 400A draw isn't a problem.

That said ... any future boat I operate will be at least 24v, but preferably 48vDC and 240vAC in order to reduce cable sizes. From there I'd use DC-DC converters if necessary, but the 48vDC equipment is slowly being built so hopefully in several more years it will be possible to outfit a boat with it.

[StuM]

Originally Posted by sameagle13

I read something about 12V systems max at 1200 watts regardless of the inverter wattage rating. Not sure if that's true or not. I'd rather just stay with my current 12V setup.

You read something false - there's a lot of that on the intertubes, including on CF at times

My 12V bank has no problem when my 3000W inverter is highly loaded. (But it pays to have a large bank )

[more]

Originally Posted by LoudMusic

I have four lithium batteries that can output 100A each, so 400A draw isn't a problem.

you think, lab small electric arc furnace for melting SS use 300 amp
I with 300A 24-35v with cellulose electrode in couple second cut 10 cm Steal bar
Try welding with 200A tell me the result.