Can i double over wire and crimp it?

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by james247

Bewitch lights having 5 year warranted now the connectors and other fittings need to be of a similar life quality.

If I may ask, what's a Bewitch light? Google search turned up nothing relevant.

[CharlieJ]

I have started using Wago 213 Series Lever Nuts for interior lighting circuits after seeing them on some high end European and South African boats. They are available in 2, 3 and 5 port models, can handle AWG 28 to AWG 12 wire, are rated to 300V and 20A.

https://amzn.to/2L1HQty

[BlackHeron]

Originally Posted by skipmac

If I may ask, what's a Bewitch light? Google search turned up nothing relevant.

Me too. I'm a commercial electrician and I can't figure out what it is either. Might be a typo but I can't for the life of me decipher it.

[hellosailor]

Anyone remember the Princess phone?

Western Electric and company used the "spare pair" (as the black and yellow were designated) to locally carry power from a small wall wart, via the spare pair, to illuminate the Princess phone. A radical new concept, having a telephone you could dial in the dark.

Insignificant power over short distance, although you can bet WE had specs for it.

[Colin A]

Last time I did this I used little tiny (micro) din rail terminal blocks. We get them thru work looking online it may be tricky to source small quantities. Use a Ferule on each wire and the terminal I believe was rated for 15A and wire size from 30AWG to 14 AWG. Of course these were located well away from anything that might get wet.

[BlackHeron]

DIN rail, and associated DIN rail stuff is really cheap on Amazon here in the USA, but much of it is shipped from China so it takes a long time. Uxcell is one of the nicer ones.

But I don't think a DIN rail connector is going to help with most short LED leads. Most of those things are like 12" max from the LED. Sometimes closer to 4-5". You'll need to convert to decently-sized wire very close to the light itself.

[Colin A]

Originally Posted by BlackHeron

DIN rail, and associated DIN rail stuff is really cheap on Amazon here in the USA, but much of it is shipped from China so it takes a long time. Uxcell is one of the nicer ones.

But I don't think a DIN rail connector is going to help with most short LED leads. Most of those things are like 12" max from the LED. Sometimes closer to 4-5". You'll need to convert to decently-sized wire very close to the light itself.

Yeah I have been using the Phoenix contact micro or mini terminals which I have found I can fit in an overhead.

https://www.phoenixcontact.com/onlin...c-20313e51a149
The best ones were these from DInkle but I have yet to find someone that will get small quantities for you. (they mount with out a din rail)

https://www.dinkle.com/en/terminal/PM2o5N

[Ike]

Here is how to do it. I learned this from a marine electrician. Use a butt splice. You can get them that reduce from one size to another. Slide about three inches of shrink tube that is big enough to go over the butt splice onto the wire. Fill the crimp portion of the splice with dielectric grease. Insert wire and crimp. Do the same for the other wire. Slide the shrink tube over the butt splice and heat until it shrinks tight around both wires. You now have a watertight connection that also will not pull apart. The dielectric grease also keeps any moisture out of the splice.

For a little extra money you can get wire connectors that are already heat shrinkable. No need to add a heat shrink tube.

[phantomracer]

good primer on marine wiring https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination/

[Ike]

Paul, that is an excellent reference. If you don't object I would like to put a link to it on my web page. PM or e-maill me.

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by Ike

Paul, that is an excellent reference. If you don't object I would like to put a link to it on my web page. PM or e-maill me.

Its not my website..but i refer to it a lot. Its amazing how much better crimping is with the correct tool and process.

[chris95040]

Originally Posted by hpeer

Try to not be holding a bare telephone wire when the phone rings.



Telephone wires carry power, just a small amount. The “ring current” is enough to worry about momentary.

I remember, after discovering this myself the hard way, having a buddy of mine hold the bare ends of a phone cord while I called from another line.

It was funny when he kinda shook for a moment during the first ring. It was absolutely hysterical when he was still holding on for the second ring.

shakeshakeshake...........shakeshakeshake

[stainless guy]

+1 for soldering. But If it is a repair and no time i keep butt splice connectors on hand that have a heat shrink and glue feature they are sweet

[phantomracer]

Originally Posted by stainless guy

+1 for soldering. But If it is a repair and no time i keep butt splice connectors on hand that have a heat shrink and glue feature they are sweet

Soldering is not acceptable by abyc. I have never soldered on a boat. A properly crimped terminal is far stronger...and a lot easier than soldering! Check out the marinehowto link above for why.

99.9% of the time i use heat shrink terminals using a proper crimping tool (boughr from marinehowto.com). Makes a huge difference using a quality tool!

I do sometimes use eurostrips for really thin wires though.

[er9]

Originally Posted by phantomracer

good primer on marine wiring https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination/

thanks for the link. not sure how i missed that one....iv'e read 90% of his articles.

jobs already half done and came out great but still need to read the article.