What 12vdc TV set in the 22" would you recomend?

[SVrider44224]

I use a 12/120 19" with built in DVD..was under $200 USD.
We use it mostly in our Motor Home.
It has been a good investment for keeping the grandkids entertained while driving....
Don't recall the brand, or the resolution. But, it's certainly good enough for what we use it for.

[Redline452]

We have a Haier 24" with internal DVD player which came with a laptop-style power "brick", and is happy running directly on ship's 12V. Some models with fluorescent backlight have internal supplies and need ~19V internally so they're out; the LED backlit model is natively 12VDC.

Sound quality is so-so but we have the audio output routed to the sound system aux in, so not a problem. Great 1080 HD image quality and can even browse photo collections on USB.

[Myknjul]

Go cheap. Given the salt air environment and the open construction of the backs of most tvs, you'll be lucky to get 3 years out of it.

[mikequig]

I bought a small Vizio tv that used a 110v power block with a 12v output and simply cut the cable at the output end of the power block and wired it directly into the cabin lights circuit on my boat. Works great.

[hamburking]

Originally Posted by cabo_sailor

I don't see why you need to restrict yourself to 12v TV's. The new flat screens don't need that much power. We simply bought a 400 watt inverter, or something like that, at the local hardware store. Hooked it up to a battery bank and the TV ran just fine. I think I paid about $40 usd for the inverter. It was designed to run small power tools. I think I've been seeing TV's of the size you want for less than $200 usd. The swivel mount cost almost as much as the TV!!

I mounted a very cheap, older samsung 19" flat panel. I powered it off a 150 watt inverter with no trouble. There was enough power on that little inverter to also use an LG smartbox and Sony DVD player. These devices use very little power.

However, inverters in general are not efficient, so there is wasted energy there. If you can find a 12V smart TV, that would be my preference.

I think the TV doubled the value of the boat when I sold!

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by mikequig

I bought a small Vizio tv that used a 110v power block with a 12v output and simply cut the cable at the output end of the power block and wired it directly into the cabin lights circuit on my boat. Works great.

There are so many of you guys that have done that, I'm going to give it a go.
Right now, I'm taking 12 VDC and converting it to 120 VAC so it can be converted back to 12 VDC to run the TV, and that is so stupid it bugs me If I fry the thing with 14.3 VDC, I'll get over it.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

There are so many of you guys that have done that, I'm going to give it a go.
Right now, I'm taking 12 VDC and converting it to 120 VAC so it can be converted back to 12 VDC to run the TV, and that is so stupid it bugs me If I fry the thing with 14.3 VDC, I'll get over it.

First off you and I both know most 12volt items work with voltages from 11.5 to 15 volts and your house bank actually doesn't put out 14 volts but rather somewhere in the upper 12 volt range when fully charged. But if you really are worried you could use a 12 volt DC to 12 volt DC voltage regulator .
100W 9.2/18VDC to 12.5VDC Fully Isolated Voltage Converter | IDC-100A-12

[W3GAC]

I have both a smaller 12v DC tv and a larger 120v AC. Both work very well. The 12v is a 19" actually purchased in a CVS drug store 1-3 years back on sale for abt $80. It actually is a 120v AC but when I peeked inside it has a 120v to 12v DC 'wall-wart' X former and I just cut the 12v cord off at the X former giving me a 5' or so cord with the need male plug on its end. Many of the 19"-21" TVs come with wall warts like this and great for us Boater's. I measured current while the tv was operating w/ volume all the way up and soldered in an inline fuse of 1.5 X that current. Works great and figured even if marine conditions eventually cause and issue... can't go too far wrong at $80!

The bigger tv is 37" and no wall wart... so as others have offered... just picked up a small DC inverter that powers the TV (and can also can power a drill, soldering gun, 120v project fan,... ). That arrangement has been on the boat for 3 years and no issues.

Bigger (32+") 12v DC TVs tend to get very pricey. You'll have a much wider selection/ lower cost going with a 120v AC TV and using inverter. Plus you get the added benefit of being able to power/ recharge small things that run only on 120v.

Responding to other topics regarding my experience on another larger cruising sailboat I often add that having an inverter + microwave oven is one of the best upgrades we've ever done. If you are going to go the inverter route for your TV and have the galley room, I strongly suggest that you consider getting a 1000-2000 watt inverter which only cost $350 these days and a small microwave. Prefer low end w/o digital clock that needs to be set before you can cook anything. Walmart has them for about $70. Its so easy to warm soup, heat pre made meals, make/ reheat tea/coffee with microwave. And no noise of loud generator/ issues of propane. While you clear move up the cost curve with a larger inverter (bigger wire gauge, and ABYC recommended heavy fuse & switch) I believe it well worth the added convenience of cruising/ Liveaboard life.


Sent from my iPhone using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[davefrediam]

I really struggled to find a suitable TV though I was after a slightly larger model and ended up with a 27" one. The made for purpose ones only went up to 24", were very expensive and all seemed to incorporate a DVD player substantially increasing the bulk of the item.
I noticed that a lot of the standard manufacturers smaller tv's had power adapters to convert an AC supply to DC and though many were 19V (no good to anyone) the Samsung models were 14V which is ideal for a direct DC supply. The 12v supply on my yacht varies from 12 to 14.4V and the TV works fine over this range.
It is super slim, has all the connections mentioned and more, is slightly curved so fits that bit snugger into the corner I have it mounted in, is full HD (not HD Ready like many), uses around 3 amps at full brightness but if you turn the brightness down just a tad (after which still seems more than bright enough) it only uses just 1.7 amps! For a 110 AC supply though you would have to plug the supplied power adapter back in. The model I got was LT590XC I believe which is a UK model but there must be a US version and probably cheaper still. I paid £269 from a high street retailer.

[Time2Go]

Originally Posted by cabo_sailor

The swivel mount cost almost as much as the TV!!


Sent from my iPhone using Cruisers Sailing Forum

That's crazy
Buy mounts from
Displays2go.com
They have a tilting bracket for 18.45
Sku# S2MT1432BK
Cheers

[gbohner]

Google "12 volt TV's". You will find that truck supply shops carry 2-3 brands of 12v TV's. I do believe that the environment in an 18 wheeler could be much more harsh than in a boat, with all the vibration and bouncing. After doing some research, I bought a Skyworth brand. The quality and picture are excellent. It is now about 4 years old and no problems. It's native mode is 12 volts and it included an adapter from 120v ac to 12v dc.

[Srqdiver]

Samsung 22" UN22F5000, 14v 35w or 120v 18w.
Purchased mine on Amazon

[ColdEH]

I shopped around for a while and bought a Samsung 22 inch 5000 series tv. I wired it diectly to my house batteries because it's native voltage is 12v , just got rid of the transformer. It had to be thin to fit in a lift I built , I hate looking at a TV when it is not on . It draws 1amp and has a great picture , and sound i can actually hear , some small tv's are very weak in the sound department and I really didn't want to get into a sound system , after all it is a boat.

This is the lift working with the tv .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMl65eq5uNk

Regards

[ColdEH]

Originally Posted by Srqdiver

Samsung 22" UN22F5000, 14v 35w or 120v 18w.
Purchased mine on Amazon

Same one I have

Regards

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by newhaul

First off you and I both know most 12volt items work with voltages from 11.5 to 15 volts and your house bank actually doesn't put out 14 volts but rather somewhere in the upper 12 volt range when fully charged.
100W 9.2/18VDC to 12.5VDC Fully Isolated Voltage Converter | IDC-100A-12

Yes, I agree that items meant to be powered off of 12V vehicles batteries are somewhat flexible in their voltage requirements, but a TV with a "brick" may not be one of those items, it may work out OK, or it may not.
Hopefully they used some kind of readily available power supply and hopefully it was built for vehicle use, hopefully

Anytime my bank is being charged it's usually in absorption at 14.3 VDC, float is 13.3 VDC, now at night, assuming the generator or the main engine isn't on, is the only time I'm only on battery power and am usually in the upper to middle 12 V range, but if the sun is up, I'm at 14.3 V or close.
I had thought about a brick converter I believe they are commonly called, but decided against it as being more trouble than it was worth, but may wire direct and see what happens.