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**Wotname** · 14-02-2012, 04:52

Hang in there and good luck

btrayfors · 14-02-2012, 04:54

(Caution: Rant Ahead)

It's designed that way. The WR20/RS87 is a sophisticated network-dependent system which, IMHO, is a very dangerous way to design a VHF intended for use on small boats.

Despite all the hype in Simrad's advertising, I think it's just plain courting disaster to design a VHF radio which is dependent on network operation -- 0183, 2000, SimRad, or whatever.

This is not a step forward. Yeah, it's cute. Imagine...a handheld device which can integrate with all the other (Simrad) electronics on board. And a wireless remote which can do the same. Neat, huh? Definitely. But sensible for use on a small boat? I don't think so. It's a big step backwards in terms of reliability, and since IMHO the VHF transceiver is one of the most important safety devices on a boat ANYTHING which compromises its basic functionality is undesirable.

A standalone VHF with its own wired in microphone and connected directly to good quality coax and a well-situated VHF antenna has been the standard for many years. It's incredibly reliable, even under adverse conditions. Why do ANYTHING to compromise that reliability (including, e.g., installing a "splitter" so you can hook up an AIS receiver)????

Sometimes it's important to strongly resist the siren call to "integrate everything".

(End Rant)

That said, sorry for your problems Akio. In your stead, I'd rip it out straight away and stop fooling with it.

Bill

PhilE · 15-02-2012, 20:26

There is probably an Amateur radio club (one or more) near you. If Sydney has an Amateur Radio store(s) ask there. Most store employees are hams

Ask if someone with VHF (2m) knowledge would help you in checking your new unstallation.

To seal the connectors once everything is working, I've always used plastic electrical tape spiral wrapped at least 6 inches followed by two coats of liquid electrical tape. The electrical tape provides some re inforcement at the cable /coax junction and the liquid tape gives a watertight seal.

When I am checking out a new VHF installation for someone, I use a 1 foot jumper from radio to one side of a Bird Wattmeter ( fancy SWR that reads in watts forward and reflected) then the coax from antenna to the 2nd Bird connector. SWR meter hooks up exactly same way. The Bird, set for forward watts, measures the watts from radio to antenna (less cable losses) as well as the SWR.

If you have questions, email me phil@air-pipe.com. Phil WA7JCE

ColdEH · 22-11-2013, 12:05

Seems like the WR20 is nothing but a nusance, I was thinking of getting one, I like the Idea of steering from the bow occasionaly, may come in handy .

Anybody get one working properly ??

I have a NSS7 controlling an AC42 autopilot.

Regards

El Rubio · 22-11-2013, 14:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by akio.kanemoto

What about my external cellphone/3G antenna cable?

Describe your external 3G antenna/ cable setup. The length of the type of cable you have is a non issue on VHF, but very important at cellular frequencies. Your cellphone operates on frequencies as high as 2.1GHz. That RG213 has 2.5dB loss per 100' at VHF freq's, fizzles to nearly 12dB at 2.1GHz! LMR400 is about 1/2 that at 6.6dB, but that's a vast improvement.

People get on here all the time and I argue with them because they focus on insignificant cable losses, connector losses, etc at VHF frequencies. All of that can quickly become significant at cellular frequencies.

Basically, you want as short of a run of coax as is practical. You don't want a bunch of inline connectors, but sometimes a thin jumper is necessary. The antenna itself should be as high as you can get it with appropriate cable. The masthead would be awesome, but not if you're feeding it with RG58. Use quality connectors designed to operate at the highest frequencies, not UHF (pl259) connectors.

If you can describe the installation, i'd be happy to offer any suggestions that i feel might help you.