Starlink router

[Perdiem]

I just saw a Starlink setup on a friends boat. He runs the Starlink router off his inverter but he says it draws 8 amps at 12 volts (ouch!). Plus I am in the habit of turning my inverter off at night so my freezer doesn't run.

Is there an off the shelf 12 volt router that would work and draw less?

I did a search but couldn't find the answer but if the question has already been answered could someone kindly direct me there.

Thank you.

[jt11791]

Yes there are 12V routers that you can use, but it is not quite that simple. You need to hack the Starlink cable and supply dishy 48VDC via POE. There are detailed instructions on how to set this up on the web.

[wholybee]

Also note that the router doesn't use much power, probably no more than whatever you replace it with. The antenna is what uses the power. So, the not so simple modification to allow it to run on 48VDC only saves the inefficiency of running an inverter, replacing that with a 12V to 48V power supply.

8 amps is higher than most users report. Does your friend have the larger mobile version of the antenna, or the standard version. The mobile version uses much more power.

[davethedog]

As has been mentioned to run Starlink directly off 12V is possible and there are a lot of guides on the net how to do it and what to buy.

Another option people do is have a smaller dedicated inverter for the Stralink so you are not using as many amps to run the smaller inverter than the large one. This method also gives you the ability to have a dedicated breaker/swith to turn the Strarlink on/off as required.

I have recently installed Starlink on our boat here in the Caribbean (bought a used system off a fellow cruiser) and he had already done the 12v conversion (no inverter required and allows a better and more energy efficient router to be used) and we are drawing about 4 to 5 Amps using the setup.

[ethand320]

I bought most of the recommended gear from this guide https://www.starlinkhardware.com/tut.../#the-easy-way

Planning to install this weekend, will report back. As for the router, I was planning to just use one of my old netgear routers with the cable stripped.

[smac999]

It does not use 8 a. It’s about 40w. Assuming you have the heater off. Make sure it’s off.

The problem is big inverters can draw 2-4a being on. So it might be 8a if that is the only thing off the inverter. Big inverters are best to be turned on when needed then back off. (Ie make coffee )

If other stuff is using the inverter 24hrs then thst 4a is being consumed no matter what. So might as well just leave the starkink on it.

If the big inverter doesn’t need to be left on. Then their are 2 better options.

12v conversion. There are many down sides to 12v conversion and not many gains. If starkink stops working it’s now your problem to trouble shoot your Diy hack up job and fix instead of starkinks.

Instead buy a 300w pure sine inverter. It will use little power. Can be left on all day. Use the big inverter only as needed. I would still turn off starkink st night or when not needed.

[smac999]

The rv dish does not use 8 a. It’s about 40w. Assuming you have the heater off. Make sure it’s off.

The marine one might be 8…. I would not buy the marine dish.

The problem is big inverters can draw 2-4a being on. So it might be 8a if that is the only thing off the inverter. Big inverters are best to be turned on when needed then back off. (Ie make coffee )

If other stuff is using the inverter 24hrs then thst 4a is being consumed no matter what. So might as well just leave the starkink on it.

If the big inverter doesn’t need to be left on. Then their are 2 better options.

12v conversion. There are many down sides to 12v conversion and not many gains. If starkink stops working it’s now your problem to trouble shoot and fix instead of starkinks.

Instead buy a 300w pure sine inverter. It will use little power. Can be left on all day. Use the big inverter only as needed. I would still turn off starkink st night or when not needed.

[AA3JY]

From the Starlink app. ‘Specs & Configuations’..

“The Starlink specs below include the Starlink, WiFi router, power supply, and cables.

Standard (Rectangular) power specifications:
Average: 50-75W
Idle: 20W
Peak: 100-240V~ 2.0A 50-60Hz

High Performance and Flat High Performance power specifications:
Average: 110-150W
Idle: 45W
Peak: 100-240V~ 4.5A 50-60Hz

Note that the specs are based on AC input power averages. The power utilization can vary depending on the temperature, location, and utilization of the Starlink. Starlink for RVs does not come with a mobile power source (e.g., generator).”

So..the question remains..which ‘Dishy’ does your “friend” have..?

Suggest to sign onto the Starlink Hacks forum where more technical advise is available.

[sailorboy1]

I use a small $30 car 500w inverter to power my SL. There is hardy any DC to AC loss. The same inverter also powers my TV and with the SL, TV and sound bar on that 500w inverter uses less power than just turning on my inverter

Hacking into the Star Link instead to save maybe 1 amp 12v DC just seems crazy

[Perdiem]

Thanks for al the replies! He has the smaller Dishy but runs it off his big inverter and I know he doesn't turn search mode on so it is using 2+ amps all the time plus whatever AC he has on. Good to hear that it uses less.

I think I'll go the 300w pure sine inverter route.

[Simi 60]

Get a decent battery bank
Stop worrying about the little things.

[ethand320]

Originally Posted by ethand320

I bought most of the recommended gear from this guide https://www.starlinkhardware.com/tut.../#the-easy-way

Planning to install this weekend, will report back. As for the router, I was planning to just use one of my old netgear routers with the cable stripped.

For anyone following along, i tested all the hardware quickly and the dish powered up and worked fine. Before I clean everything up I'll try and run it on the ampmeter to see what the draw's like.

[AA3JY]

Originally Posted by ethand320

For anyone following along, i tested all the hardware quickly and the dish powered up and worked fine. Before I clean everything up I'll try and run it on the ampmeter to see what the draw's like.

Did a quick amperage check on my @home setup with a 400 W inverter..showed a momentary ~8A DC @ startup and eventually settled down to a continuous ~4A DC.

[Perdiem]

Originally Posted by AA3JY

Did a quick amperage check on my @home setup with a 400 W inverter..showed a momentary ~8A DC @ startup and eventually settled down to a continuous ~4A DC.

Good to know - thanks!

op here

[boating4ever]

i did a lot of research. with heater off you can expect 75w or less on average for just the dish. some times it needs 150w, possibly when booting, repositioning, in bad weather, etc. my router is separate (peplink) and draws very little.