Starlink: how to integrate aboard

[s/v Jedi]

I've had a disaster with my laptop failing but got a new one yesterday so here is a new diagram again

This time how I integrated Starlink aboard. Some key points:

- I use a Victron 120W 24V to 48V dc-dc converter. If you are so unfortunate to have a 12V system aboard, then you need to find a suitable 12V to 48V dc-dc converter. Do not buy the cheap one from Amazon because it outputs so much noise that the link will not work correctly. Google search will reveal the problems and which converters work.

- There are two devices between the Starlink dishy and the Mikrotik router. These are a cable connector converter and power injector from Yaosheng and both are available on Amazon.

- If you can't use/find any of the above components then you have an alternate option: use the Starlink router that comes with dishy and order the optional Ethernet interface. In the Starlink app, choose "bypass router". This makes the Starlink router just the power supply but it is AC powered.

- The router used is a Mikrotik model hEX S Gigabit router. It is powered by the same 48V or with an AC adapter that comes with it. This router comes with a default configuration that works.

- The switch used is a Netgear GS308EP. It is powered by the same 48V or with an AC adapter that comes with it. This switch powers other devices like the wifi access point and the camera

- The wifi access point used is a Netgear WAX214v2. This is a wifi 6 access point and it is powered over its Ethernet link by the switch.

- The camera is an Amcrest camera also powered over Ethernet. There are many models and I was advised to use 5MP models.

- The Yacht Devices NMEA2000 units are the NMEA2000 Ethernet and Wifi gateways. While you could use just one, there are good reasons to use these two. Not just redundancy but also galvanic isolation to deal with transient surges from lightning storms. For example, you can use another Yacht Devices NMEA0183 (or NMEA2000) wifi gateway to link masthead wind instrument, VHF radio and AIS receiver/transceiver via wifi to the Netgear AP for 100% galvanic isolation.

- if you have a bonding system with underwater plate then I recommend to add a DC surge arrester to the output of the dc-dc converter.

Note that nothing here is simple and easy. If you never configured an IP network or router then this will be a path of hurt

I have tested this configuration as well as the option with Starlink router and optional Ethernet adapter for a month and it works flawlessly.

[wrwakefield]

Thanks for taking the time to share…

Cheers, Bill

[skalashn]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

I
- I use a Victron 120W 24V to 48V dc-dc converter. If you are so unfortunate to have a 12V system aboard, then you need to find a suitable 12V to 48V dc-dc converter. Do not buy the cheap one from Amazon because it outputs so much noise that the link will not work correctly. Google search will reveal the problems and which converters work.

I used one of these for 12V->48V and it works well with no noise. I cut the stock cable and plugged into cheap generic 12V router through POE injector.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by skalashn

I used one of these for 12V->48V and it works well with no noise. I cut the stock cable and plugged into cheap generic 12V router through POE injector.

Yes, everything can be done cheaper but that dc converter has zero shielding so it will lead to problems with radios, refrigeration etc.

You can only tell if there is noise when you examine the output with an oscilloscope.

Cheap generic 12V routers become the bottleneck in the system and they are of the dev|l. I think you mean a cheap wifi router which is totally unacceptable when nmea instrument data is transmitted over it.