Quick-link Corrosion - SNAP!

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by GMac

And if it's SS it's not intended to be submersed for extended periods of time. We are seeing a lot more failures and very dodgy loads with SS anchor chain in the last year or so. We think it's due to the eastern stuff flooding in cheap and the poor quality process used to make most of it. I'll find some photos of a couple of boat worth we have tested since Xmas, they will scare you.

Class 2 is only a G30, the same as BBB is. What tricks most is they look at the elevated WLL that comes with stud in stud link chains, which the forerunner and kenter shackle are designed to be used in, so it looks way stronger than open link...... but that's only a play with numbers and doesn't exist in real life. Watch for the length i.e do you have enough room between your anchor and winch as this stuff will kill your winch if it gets into it as stud link works on very different measurements than common open link.

C Links are fine as long as you use good ones. We only use Crosby or Maggi, both have been well proven to be fine, even if they do tend to rust a smidgen sooner but then you do bash them with a hammer on fitting. NEVER use a SS one, we've tested over 2 dozen and everyone failed prematurely. Never use any with no name on them, again they are just a disaster looking for a moment to happen.

I have plenty to isolate the forerunner (65 inch). This also allows a longer shank on the new, larger anchor. The windlass is well back from the bow roller. My chain is 7/16 G4. The forerunner is 14 mm. I'm still waiting for firm quotes. I really hate the SS junk WM and the other chandleries keep trying to push. There are pretty easy work-arounds for smaller anchors, boats and chain but once the chain hits about 7/16 to 1/2 you start looking for commercial stuff.

[witzgall]

I would like to know as well. What is the best practice for installing a c-link? Can it be done onboard?

Chris

Originally Posted by Kettlewell

Old thread revival. Assuming you wanted to use one of these good quality Crosby C-Links, what is the proper way to secure it? I would be worried about work hardening the thing with too much hammering. Do you use a hydraulic press to peen over the studs?

[delmarrey]

I've been installing them by just using the ball end of a ball peen hammer. You just have to lay it down on a heavy chunk of steel/small anvil (with reliefs for the mating links) to resist the movement of hammering, or else you'll be wasting your energy. A heavy vice with the jaws spread apart spanning the links, works great.

You just have to get the tips to flair more then enough for the link to not have any movement within it's self. Then give it a couple good coats of galvanize spray. Those tips will want to rust.

[Nicholson58]

Finally got my new fore-runner. The big ROCNA requires mods to the pulpiit. Will do that this fall along with other bright work changes. For now I will stay withthe 75# CQR. There was not a a Kentor link or pear link small enough for my 7/16 BBB chain. I would never use a Quick Link.

This is all galvanized;
14mm forerunner G2 ($135.00).
14mm D shackle G2 $90.00. (not shown - for the ROCNA)
1/2" BTC chain shackle $20.
Wasington Chain & Supply.

[pbiJim]

I have limited experience with SS chain, but I have extensive experience with various grades of SS shafting & bar stock. I'll give you the short version of what I know: There are many different grades of SS. Their properties vary wildly. Many (303, 304, 18-8, etc) are soft & low in tensile strength. Some (17-4ph) can be stronger than 4140 high alloy chrome-moly steel. Most types of ss will fatigue under repetitive load & vibration much faster than common low, medium & high alloy (non-stainless) steels.