Protecting Paint System Inside Chainlocker

[Pete7]

Is it a problem though? ours is GRP and after 28 years you would think it would be ground down to the fibres, but in fact the locker still has all the original flow coat that was applied when new. So it may not be that much of a problem, so long as the owner doesn't go throwing the anchor in or leave it to rock back and forth on top of the chain.

Pete

[reed1v]

Two part epoxy paint will work; but the world wonders Why Bother? There are treatment programs for OCD.

[Cheechako]

Line X etc is great, but getting it done down at the marina and in your damp anchor locker is going to be a PITA and expensive. Really, nothing is needed but Dri Deck is a quick easy job done by yourself, and allow ventilation rather than just water sitting.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by wrwakefield

On my last 4 boats I used the rubber floor mat with holes in it. It is also available in the box stores in the US.


My goals in doing that were:

• Quiet down the chain locker
• Keep the chain from sitting in water/mud/gunk [sometimes I had to put 2 or 3 layers on the bottom to accomplish this- single layers on the sides...] I always fresh water rinse chain [after raw water blasting off mud during retrieval] to help prolong its life. This lets all the crud drain out of the locker, and allow all of the chain to air dry when conditions permit.
• Reduce possible damage to the chain locker in violent conditions

The chain keeps the matting in place on the sides. If I ever had a locker where the sides were too vertical, allowing the matt to flop over when the chain is deployed, I might epoxy some wood or G10 high in the locker so I could screw in some eyes for attaching the tops of the mats...

I also learned to zip tie any joints together...

Cheers!

Bill

This is exactly what I have done. The reason I did this was because all of the inside of my two steel lockers were rusty as all hell. No paint left. This year I converted them to semi dry lockers. I say 'semi' because the drain holes are still in the sides of the hull so some sea water will be able to get in. But at least this way I can wash them out with fresh water.

After I freshly painted one of them I noticed the chain where it knocked on the sides would knock off the epoxy paint I put on and then rust would develop where the paint was knocked off. So, I used the matting up the sides and that works well. I never have a problem with it staying in place.

My main anchor now drops below my two deck anchor lockers into a place in the bow. I built a wooden play box for it to drop in to. I've not checked it in the two years that I've done that though, so it's time I open it up and have a look.

[Lokiyawl]

Originally Posted by natraps116

You dont... ..... actually I have no idea. Mine just smashes into the white paint against white fiberglass so I don't really notice

Sent from my SM-N900T using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

Don't paint fibreglass, use a hard polyester coating that will adhere much better and be hard. Regular gel coat with proper additives can work ok but , Prestec (by Simtec)
or something comparable is the best IMO. James

[SeaSon]

Plastic laundry basket or tote works well for me. Flexes into place and shape, holds the chain of the walls, and holds 300' reasonably well. Collects the bit of mud in the very bottom that can then be carried off the boat.

[ggray]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

I never worried about it much, but to keep the chain ventilated and less damp I used Dri Dek in the locker bottom on a couple boats that had more area and a flatter bottom. I just let it curl up the sides for a few inches also.
Damn stuff was cheap when it first came out, a bit expensive now but you don't need much.
https://www.zoro.com/deck-mat-modula...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

This is the way to go. Helps keep the chain from sitting in salt water.

When I rebuilt my anchor locker and windlass base I lined the floor with a different brand (can't remember, but a search for Dri Dek is where I found it) that had two different versions.One soft like Dri Dek, the other harder and more rigid. I used the latter, and the chain can slide on it better I think, which was good for me. It was a bit lighter and a little cheaper, I think, and the attachment lugs work with the softer one if part of your floor is curved (not flat).Slight difference in height though.

[reed1v]

Confused. If the only thing in the chain locker is chain(we only used chain), and it drains into the bilge and has external ventilation, why would you need to worry about moisture control? It should be dry within a day of raising and stowing an anchor chain. At least ours have been dry. Its mostly keeping bilge dry that controls moisture throughout the boat, and that is fairly easy to do(assuming your boat does not leak).

On one boat we had pressure washers to wash down the chain as it came aboard, so it got stowed wet. Never a problem.

[DivingOtter]

I sprayed mine with a truck bedliner. Works great and I know it will hold up because I painted my F350 frame with it years ago and that's held up perfect.

[Mikado]

Originally Posted by Captndave1

Get some pick-up truck bed liner coating from SCORPION Coatings, this stuff is tough as nails and all protect the locker for many years.

I painted my chain locker with truck bed liner about 3 years ago and the results are fantastic. I would not recommend anything else.

[ggray]

Originally Posted by reed1v

Confused. If the only thing in the chain locker is chain(we only used chain), and it drains into the bilge and has external ventilation, why would you need to worry about moisture control? It should be dry within a day of raising and stowing an anchor chain. At least ours have been dry. Its mostly keeping bilge dry that controls moisture throughout the boat, and that is fairly easy to do(assuming your boat does not leak).

On one boat we had pressure washers to wash down the chain as it came aboard, so it got stowed wet. Never a problem.

Well, originally the floor (and sides) of the chain locker was covered with a sheet of rubber. There was still a drain hole through it, but the rubber wasn't perfectly flat so there were some little pools of water that wouldn't completely drain. And as Cheechako mentioned, a large area compounds the drainage issue.

Ventilation wasn't great, and until I was in the process of rebuilding the locker I never realized how much rain water leaked through the flush latch (which has now been replaced with another style).

So there were other factors, but regardless, the chain rusted in one spot where water had lingered. The "drydek" makes it quieter, protects the fiberglass, and helps drainage.