While I agree that it would be difficult to get going I am a little more optimistic for you - but only if you offer something different. IMHO none of the
current big players offer an optimal package for cruisers. My choice is a 270
aluminum RIB (just ordered from Zodiak). Since I don't plan on more long distance cruising in the future I cheaped out with PVC; otherwise I would have ordered Hypalon as I have on my 23 year old AB.
What to do differently?
Put clamps or straps for oars on the inside of the tubes - storing them on the top of the tubes is quite literally a PITA because that is where we sit, unless rowing. And make sure the oarlocks mount well aft of the seat - 8"-10" IIRC but do check. My AB
dinghy had them almost beside the seat so impossible to row - I had them moved. And include strong, long oars with oarlocks that can adjust so the
dinghy can row well. I had oarlocks machined to fit the sockets on the dinghy so I could use my 8' spruce spoon-tips - much better than the silly little
aluminum things included (and still used as backup with the motor).
Put strong flat straps on the top of the tubes, for holding onto while motoring or sitting on. If
rope is used then mount on the inside top so not uncomfortable to sit on.
Put mount in bow for securing the Moeller 6BOW
fuel tank. This not only makes more space in the middle, it helps balance against the weight of the
outboard. And provide hooks or straps for organizing the
fuel hose so we don't step on the hose and have it roll under the foot. Also, make it so the front lifting point (absolutely required) will allow a lifting harness to
work without having to move said 6BOW tank. Also, the two stern
lift points should either be fitted so they can be used for towing, or include towing eyes as well.
By all means do something for proper
legal lighting. A socket on the transom for a
mast with an all-round white light and a mount on the bow for a bi-color standard would be great. I installed (incandescent) AquaSignal nav lights on my old dinghy, with a
lighting kit on the
outboard (produced 12VAC so not useful for LEDs), I have purchased a Navisafe LED kit for the new dinghy, which looks to be a good solution. However the
adhesive for the bow mount has failed for some, almost certainly because of inadequate prep; if that were included and glued down properly (not double-sticky tape) that would be great. The lights need not be included standard, just the mounts.
All RIBs should have reinforcing braces between transom and floor, for those who do
power (or over-power). At least on the smaller ones, stick with a simple
hull with internal non-skid - a second flat layer isn't needed and doesn't justify the weight (and makes it harder to clean).
At least on the smaller dinghies don't include the rigid
storage box - it adds too much weight and makes it harder to stow.
Fabric storage bags can be optional.
Offer a proper, fitted operating cover (chaps) of Sunbrella or similar to protect the tubes from sun and wear while in use.
Including mounting points on the transom for launching wheels would be desirable; the wheels themselves could be optional. But please don't even consider the 5" wheels - they just dig furrows in the sand. Fine for launching ramps, but we are talking about cruisers here.
If you can provide a nice mounting surface for numbers/"S/Y XXX" that would be good. But actually providing the numbers themselves would be a problem - think
purchase, get HIN, title, register, get numbers assignment, then make/glue numbers, finally ship - too awkward.
I'm sure others can recommend more adaptations for cruisers. With a turnkey package for cruisers you have a chance at a modest business. Taking on the big boys directly, not so much.
Greg