Mill my own T-track? Aluminum Bronze or Silicon Bronze?

[cadmus]

Originally Posted by thinwater

For a 27-foot boat, climbing rap rings are all you need. Light, cheap, low friction, and durable. Stainless can work, but it's more banging around on the sheet and deck.

I agree, and will make this ability easy to rig. There are many unkowns about this boat-sails and I will be too far from a home workshop for big mods. So I will do just this. make a barber hauler. Flexible tang location. flexible options. I still want to replace the old black beat up aluminum with bronze T-track.

[cadmus]

Originally Posted by cadmus

...when milling out of solid bar did you use a normal milling cutter? or a mini saw arbor?
Many thanks,

By "mini saw arbor" i meant to say "slotting saw arbor" or "slitting saw arbor" as used on a mill to cut slits.








I am toying with cannibalizing a cheap drill press and turning it into a tool that only slits flat bar to make my own T track.

I wish i had a mill.... But a wise man told me: "What you think you own, owns you."

[psk125]

Don't forget how uncomfortable the track will be for crew hiking out while racing. Can you round the top?

[cadmus]

Originally Posted by psk125

Don't forget how uncomfortable the track will be for crew hiking out while racing. Can you round the top?

Thanks but it is not that kind of boat. High D/L. No rail meat.


It has T track currently, just rather beat up ugly aluminum.

[tvangilder]

Originally Posted by cadmus

By "two layers" you mean the top of the T is a flat bar maybe 1/8" thick and 1" wide (if a 1" track) and the bottom is square or rectangle bar that makes the | of the T? it worked well? for how long? was it a smooth curve? As good as milling or not? I fear it will not be as strong or smooth of a curve as milling a T out of solid bar.





when milling out of solid bar did you use a normal milling cutter? or a mini saw arbor? How many passes did each corner take?



Many thanks,

I used a normal end mill