Endurance 35 Ketch Rigging

[Madrugada]

Hi....

Just like to ask if anyone has the dimension sizes for a Endurance 35 Kêtch 1982 standing rigging as the yacht ive just bought requires its standing to be replaced ?

Can the standing rigging be replace one by one saving removal of the mast ?

As the yacht is based in Italy, Roma has anyone got a contact were I can get a good deal on all of the rigging to be replaced or is it chepaer to buy in the UK or the USA ?

Thanks

[Rustic Charm]

I don't know about the cost but you can certainly replace the rigging with the mast in place. Will need to spend a lot of time up the pole though.

[Madrugada]

Thanks Rustic Charm,

Ive a lot todo, the decks are teak attached to PLY from the outside when you walk on the deck it feels soft, but under neath the ceiling has no signs of egress of water with no smell of mould so im hoping that the teak is gone rotten and it has NOT gone threw the ply YET .....

Best course of action is to take the teak up and do an inspection of the ply probaly have to replace some spot.

As for the rigging for the safest thing to do is replace it all,

what you think

[Rustic Charm]

I'm a little surprised you havn't had some other responses yet. I'm afraid I don't have enough experience to advise yet and no experience on either teak or ply vessels.

With my rigging, which is older than ten years my rigger checked all the main mast rigging last year and replaced a single cable and that was it. He didn't think we needed to replace it all. Though I know that's what is common. I pulled the mast down as I needed all the chain plates replaced at the same time, so I had the mast re wired and relighted.

[FlippedPip]

The crew of SV Delos have just replaces their standing rigging.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WLPEAE6YfE

Big job, but doable.

Love the Endurance 35, it was the first boat both myself and wife fell in love with. But the lack of 2 cabins in the one we looked at was a show stopper.

When did you get yours?

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by FlippedPip

The crew of SV Delos have just replaces their standing rigging.

Big job, but doable.

Love the Endurance 35, it was the first boat both myself and wife fell in love with. But the lack of 2 cabins in the one we looked at was a show stopper.

When did you get yours?

Welcome to CF FlippedPip

It is well worth watching the Delos video's. I'm a subscriber to them. Better than anything on tv.

[FlippedPip]

Thanks for the welcome.

Yep, they are amazing videos. Talk about living the dream

So Madrugada, lets see some photos of your boat....

[ausnp84]

Another big fan of Delos here!

Re-rigging a sailboat yourself isn't a big job - depends on what you're willing to spend. Either have a rigger do it all for you, or buy the wire, sta-lok fittings, and spend a week getting it done one at a time. I just did my ketch in two weeks and it's really not difficult....

n

[SteveSails]

On a new to you 1982 boat I would pull the masts and do a thorough job. How are the mast tangs? fasteners? sheaves still have grooves for wire halyards and worn out? Mast wiring original? Any corrosion issues? Mast step OK? Chain plates need attention? Maybe best to wait until you have the resources and time unless something is critical and needs to be done now.
As for the decks I think you should prepare for the worst and the ply has rotted. Real teak does not rot that easily. What happens is that the seams fail and water is trapped between the teak and the deck substrate where the problems start. There are thousands of boats out there with nice looking teak decks but rotted balsa or plywood cores. A big job to fix but not impossible.

Good luck.

[S/V Alchemy]

Originally Posted by SteveSails

On a new to you 1982 boat I would pull the masts and do a thorough job. How are the mast tangs? fasteners? sheaves still have grooves for wire halyards and worn out? Mast wiring original? Any corrosion issues? Mast step OK? Chain plates need attention? Maybe best to wait until you have the resources and time unless something is critical and needs to be done now.
As for the decks I think you should prepare for the worst and the ply has rotted. Real teak does not rot that easily. What happens is that the seams fail and water is trapped between the teak and the deck substrate where the problems start. There are thousands of boats out there with nice looking teak decks but rotted balsa or plywood cores. A big job to fix but not impossible.

Good luck.

Same here. The worst way to discouver microfractures in your tangs and related fittings is when you tension your new rigging and they part in the first 10 degree heel. Bring the masts down, and completely strip them. Dye test the fittings for cracks and clean or replace all bolts, nuts and pins. Refresh or replace all bushings or coatings/pastes keeping the SS from corroding the aluminum. Disassemble the sheave boxes and check for galling, corrosion or nicks that might damage halyards. End for end or replace all halyards. Replace and secure all wire runs. Switch to LEDs and ensure the VHF antenna and the instruments are in good shape.

While the answer is "yeah, sure, you could do it that way", it's like changing a flat tire on a car that might be on fire...why WOULDN'T you do all the associated checks and service on your masts? It's a hell of a lot easier, too, to dismast, remove all the stays, clearly mark them, and to get them replicated anew. This may help explain what I mean: The world encompassed: Rigging: The game

[Sailing55]

Originally Posted by Madrugada

Thanks Rustic Charm,

Ive a lot todo, the decks are teak attached to PLY from the outside when you walk on the deck it feels soft, but under neath the ceiling has no signs of egress of water with no smell of mould so im hoping that the teak is gone rotten and it has NOT gone threw the ply YET .....

Best course of action is to take the teak up and do an inspection of the ply probaly have to replace some spot.

As for the rigging for the safest thing to do is replace it all,

what you think

Unfortunately, it the decks are teak over ply and are soft or spongy feeling, the problem is almost without exception in the plywood [or cored fiberglass]. Teak is extremely resistant to rot, whereas plywood is extremely susceptible to rot when used as an underlayment for a faux laid teak deck.

What does the survey report say about the deck problem?

[Nanamuk]

I have the original Peter Ibold plans from Dec 1 1970 for a wooden Endurance 35 - it includes the rigging for the ketch using wooden masts.It calls for 9/32" 1X19 for head stay, inner forestay, upper shrouds on both main mast and mizzen, 5/32" for the jumper stay on the front of the mizzen, 1/8 on the triatic. There are no dimensions for the lowers or aft intermediates.
I have rerigged our Endurance 35 cutter with Staylocks, 5/16" -1X19 wire on head stay, inner forestay and upper shrouds, 1/4" on lowers, aft intermediates and back stays. Easy to do on your own but like others have said best to have the mast down if you can manage it as there are lots of other things to check.
After 36 years we had a soft spot on our deck - 2 layers of 3/8" plywood on teak beams, glassed over then Treadmaster on top. We took the glass off the whole deck and found rot in the top layer of ply where it was soft and around the water and diesel fill deck fittings. Took 1 sheet of plywood to replace the bad stuff then reglassed with 3 layers of mat and 2 roving - a 6 week job, 6 days a week for 2 of us (and a 3rd for the glassing) in a covered shop. Like you we never had any interior leaks. Our mast is stepped on deck so had to come off to make repairs - may apply to you too.
Yes we love the Endurance - would not go ketch rig as even as a cutter the sails are all small enough for 1 person to manage and the mizzen just gets in the way. As soon as the wind is aft of the beam I get rid of the main so like the taller mast to fly bigger head sails - still using hank ons so have 5 sizes to choose from (plus 2 sizes of staysails).

[barnakiel]

Endurance 35 is a broad term. There were many builds. Yours may be a Belliure.

Pieces can be replaced one by one BUT be extra careful if the mast is deck stepped ;-)

Always use some sort of support when removing a piece and make sure you ease pressure on the mast (forestays/backstays/shrouds) to avoid buckling.

It is a heavy boat and so the rigging will be quite heavy. Depending on what mast fittings there are, you may be able to buy reels of ss wire and norseman/stalok style fittings and DIY. This is not the cheapest way outright, but it saves you money in the future.

Do not buy abroad as ss wire and fittings are heavy and any savings in pricing will be lost in taxes and postage.

Cheers,
b.

[Madrugada]

Hi Guys, thanks for the replies,

Yes I have seen the Delos crew change the standing rigging all good stuff good to see someone do it, another utube show you guys should watch is "Sv Seeker" very good.



"Nanamuk". you mentioned you had plans for a wooden endurance 35 ketch with wooden mast would it be possible to get the plans of you via private e-mail so I can take a look at them ? You also mentioned you've taken up the teak decking have you replaced it with teak ?

Or if you have any information on the Endurance 35 I'd appericate it manuals etc....


"Barnakiel"

You mentioned in your reply not to buy abroad the stainless steel wiring in a coil are you saying not Europe, it would be cheaper to buy in Europe for me as I'm based in Europe ?

I've bought the boat about two weeks ago it's based in Civitavecchia, Italy once I completed my contract at work I'll fly down to Italy to start work, I'd like to get the boat on a hard stand and covered so I can take up the teak decks and also de mast her as I'd like to do full inspection on her.

I'd appericate any advice and guidance

[Nanamuk]

The plans are too big to scan and are very faded so may not photocopy well but if you send an email address I'll see what I can do.
As for the deck mine was Tread Master over glass and that is what I replaced it with (the glass was only 1 layer of mat which eventually cracked under the Tread Master leading to the rot problem). Teak is nice but too expensive/heavy/prone to leaks - don't know why anyone would take a sealed deck, drill 1000 holes in it and try to reseal it - would try the glue down method if I was determined to have a teak deck but have seen a few of them delaminate.