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22-07-2016, 21:02
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#61
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Marine Service Provider
Join Date: May 2012
Location: New Orleans
Boat: We have a problem... A serious addiction issue.
Posts: 3,974
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Re: Chain plate replacement confusion
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sulaire
Apologies to op if this is off topic, but maybe useful too;
Our chain plates are through deck and then visible on the inside of cabin, some one told me not to put sikaflex or any other sealing/bedding compound on the bolts themselves as stainless is best left to breath, good advice?
I would have thought a small gasket of sealant round the outside head of the bolt would be ok to stop water ingress?
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The sealant is great up to the first time the seal breaks. Then it all goes sideways. The sealant acts to trap water against the stainless and prevent oxygen from getting to it. Which accelerates corrosion. It's the same reason coated wire lifelines are so dangerous, they can look good from the outside and be rotten away inside.
__________________
Greg
- If animals weren't meant to be eaten then they wouldn't be made of food.
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22-07-2016, 23:36
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#62
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Marine Service Provider
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: home port Washington DC
Boat: SS Crocker design #131
Posts: 992
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Re: Chain plate replacement confusion
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stumble
The sealant is great up to the first time the seal breaks. Then it all goes sideways. The sealant acts to trap water against the stainless and prevent oxygen from getting to it. Which accelerates corrosion. It's the same reason coated wire lifelines are so dangerous, they can look good from the outside and be rotten away inside.
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And exactly the reason why we love our bronze chainplates as well as bronze bolts and other fasteners aboard the boat. They last longer, safer, than does stainless.
__________________
"The only noble thing a man can do with money is to build a schooner." Robert Louis Stevenson
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23-07-2016, 07:33
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#63
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Chicago
Boat: Alden auxiliary ketch 48'
Posts: 950
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Re: Chain plate replacement confusion
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schooner Chandlery
And exactly the reason why we love our bronze chainplates as well as bronze bolts and other fasteners aboard the boat. They last longer, safer, than does stainless.
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I use bronze - won't use anything else for chainplates.
But you won't get much of a response on that old fashioned material here.
__________________
Outside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend.
Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read.
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23-07-2016, 07:36
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#64
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Marine Service Provider
Join Date: May 2012
Location: New Orleans
Boat: We have a problem... A serious addiction issue.
Posts: 3,974
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Re: Chain plate replacement confusion
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schooner Chandlery
And exactly the reason why we love our bronze chainplates as well as bronze bolts and other fasteners aboard the boat. They last longer, safer, than does stainless.
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No question stainless is a terrible metal onboard. It's only saving grace is the rest are worse. Good bronze or titanium is absolutely the way to go.
__________________
Greg
- If animals weren't meant to be eaten then they wouldn't be made of food.
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23-07-2016, 08:01
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#65
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Planet earth
Boat: Hans Christian 41
Posts: 300
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Re: Chain plate replacement confusion
Forgive my ignorance, but why are chainplates mostly made from stainless? Is it cost?
I like the idea of bronze and possibly titanium, can you get titanium bolts?
My rigging is all stainless, how would the interface from stainless rigging to bronze or titanium stand up dissimilar metals and all that?
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23-07-2016, 08:22
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#66
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Marine Service Provider
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: home port Washington DC
Boat: SS Crocker design #131
Posts: 992
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Re: Chain plate replacement confusion
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sulaire
Forgive my ignorance, but why are chainplates mostly made from stainless? Is it cost?
I like the idea of bronze and possibly titanium, can you get titanium bolts?
My rigging is all stainless, how would the interface from stainless rigging to bronze or titanium stand up dissimilar metals and all that?
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Marketing and herd mentality.
They used to be bronze or they were galvanized steel. You can still get either one of those.
Bronze and stainless play well together above the waterline.
__________________
"The only noble thing a man can do with money is to build a schooner." Robert Louis Stevenson
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23-07-2016, 09:47
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#67
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Skagit City, WA
Posts: 25,586
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Re: Chain plate replacement confusion
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sulaire
Apologies to op if this is off topic, but maybe useful too;
Our chain plates are through deck and then visible on the inside of cabin, some one told me not to put sikaflex or any other sealing/bedding compound on the bolts themselves as stainless is best left to breath, good advice?
I would have thought a small gasket of sealant round the outside head of the bolt would be ok to stop water ingress?
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That a tough one I think. Personally I would seal them tight. The problem is, that a minimum open amount wont help at all. (like a bolt thru a hole drilled in fiberglass) It will just trap moisture. If you can keep the moisture out in the first place... better. JMHO
__________________
"I spent most of my money on Booze, Broads and Boats. The rest I wasted" - Elmore Leonard
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23-07-2016, 13:21
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#68
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: PNW
Boat: Bruce Roberts Ketch 40
Posts: 477
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Re: Chain plate replacement confusion
Love this thread as we are discussing chain plate replacement for my
Bruce Roberts 40.
Any one with specifics for a Roberts 40, Id appreciate it.
Mahalo
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23-07-2016, 14:11
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#69
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 112
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Re: Chain plate replacement confusion
Quote:
Originally Posted by barnakiel
BTW On the design front, I could consider any bolts that pass thru a backing that thick to be possibly sub-optimal choice. Given the hull thickness you mentioned the backing block is possibly not necessary and should definitely not be made in any material that could catch rot. And I do not believe the material they used in your boat was solid grp!
There are this many ways to build things.
b.
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Agree there are many ways to skin a cat but I think the backing blocks are a must unless I switch to external chain plates in which case I would have had a much bigger project. For a Hans Christian 43 the plates pass through the deck. The curvature of the deck and hull creates a void between the hull and the chain plate. This backing block is a must to take up the space unless I bend the chain plate to take up the void. This would create a much bigger issue of counter forces against the bulwarks that are currently dispersed to the hull. Is there simpler ways more cost effective ways to make a chain plate, Yes. Will it be a bigger project to make work, Oh Yes. Besides, I think Harwood Ives did a great job at designing our boat and like a classic car, I take pride in trying to keep as original as possible.
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23-07-2016, 20:09
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#70
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: USA
Boat: 41' yawl
Posts: 1,187
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Re: Chain plate replacement confusion
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sulaire
Apologies to op if this is off topic, but maybe useful too;
Our chain plates are through deck and then visible on the inside of cabin, some one told me not to put sikaflex or any other sealing/bedding compound on the bolts themselves as stainless is best left to breath, good advice?
I would have thought a small gasket of sealant round the outside head of the bolt would be ok to stop water ingress?
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What water? The chainplates are sealed up on deck. I think as long as you periodically check for signs of that failing, you are fine to avoid any compound on the bolts themselves inside the boat. Thats just going to be additional hassle every time you pop and inspect your chainplates.
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