Cannot remove winch drum

[Tamir]

I have an Andersen 40 ST Black trim Version 1.0 winch. Cannot remove the drum after removing the three screws and self tailer. As I try to lift the drum, it lifts 1-2 mm, but no further. There is a somewhat metallic noise as if hitting a bolt or stopper. I have tried prying gently off the base. Tried in different positions of the ratchet, but to no avail. Any suggestions?

[unclemack]

Don't know Andersens - is there maybe a screw head at the bottom of the winch socket?
Exploded diagrams anywhere on line?

[unclemack]

OK, just watched a youtube video, no screw!

I wonder if it's possible that the bearing carrier could have split and let a roller fall out to get caught between the drum and the base?

The shaft seems to be removed by inserting a winch handle and rotating to free the pawls while lifting.

Could that prevent the drum from lifting if done inadvertently beforehand?

Maybe I'd try spinning a winch handle both ways while keeping upward pressure on the drum to start with.

Or turning/lifting the drum while tapping it with a piece of soft wood to dislodge whatever small part may have come adrift.

Or pulling up sharply on some pieces of rope tied tightly around the drum - the slide hammer effect.

Obviously take steps to prevent small parts flying out/overboard whatever you do.

Good luck with it!

[GordMay]

According to:
➥ http://andersenwinches.com/aw/downlo....2_-_3.2_F.pdf

“1. Remove screw, and top cap.
2. Remove self-tailing arm and drum.
3. Insert a winch handle. Pull up the drive shaft gently, while turning gear wheel and ratchet gear carefully. Remove drive shaft ...”

[George DuBose]

I also have Anderson ST40s and I recall that one has to lift and turn the drum at the same time.

[reed1v]

Turn and life. Your hitting the pawls. Need to turn to get them to turn in so the drum can lift. Otherwise, you will bust the pawls and then need to rebuild the winch. BTW: put it back together the same way. Be sure not to lose any springs, clips, and etc. when removing the drum. Lots of little stuff inside.

[reed1v]

Forgot to add: Do Not use regular grease to lub the winch. It will be hard to grind. Use very light weight grease designed for winches, or LPS 2. WD-40 is not a lubricant but an anti corrosive. Get to know the LPS line of sprays. Way better than most other oils/greases on the market, except maybe Miracle Oil.

[Franst8]

I read somewhere that sewing machine oil works. It's very light.

[reed1v]

Yes, sewing machine oil will work, but not as durable as LPS-2. Refined whale oil will also work(clock oil) will work, but unless your Japanese, you may have some ethical issues to deal with. Really need a light oil that will stick to the metal, last a long time, and not affect the metals. Do not use general purpose oils nor anything that is not thin(look for watery consistency--low viscosity.

Mobil-1 synthetic 10w-60 can also be used. Its considered a good "clock" oil for mechanical clocks nowadays and if you got a lot of winches to clean, its the best deal around..

[n8kraft]

I had a buddy have trouble removing his winch drum too. All we did was insert the winch handle to try and get more lift off it. That didn't work, but with a small rotation the winch drum slid right off! Amazing engineering.

[Tamir]

Had to remove entire winch at base. The screw holding in the gearwheel became loose. It thus pushed up on the roller bearing which over time trapped the drum.
Once we removed the winch base and the drum, we noticed that the inside of the drum had many divets that needed to be cored smooth before re-assembling.
Certainly makes the case for annual winch maintenance.