Tips for rebuilding a fridge from the top

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by rotorman

I am rebuilding the insulation of my fridge through the top...

Why not remove the cabinet face? A whole lot easier.

[rotorman]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

Why not remove the cabinet face? A whole lot easier.

I am not convinced that it would be much easier (yet [emoji9] )

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by rotorman

I am not convinced that it would be much easier (yet [emoji9] )

You will be before you finish building it through the top opening.

[Typhoon]

In some cases removing the cabinetry is easer , but that all depends on the boat and the level of intricacy of the cabinetry itself. The question is , will you be able to rebuild the area to look like the original , and of course do you care ? If you are sailing a Hylas , you care . So again depends on your investment .

Building through the opening can be done , and can be done well . Its just a matter of time , care, and patients . The result is a new fridge with the original wood work in place.

Building the liner outside the box can give very good results , even if you have to cut it to get it in place . Careful measurements and a sound plan of attack helps as well .

Don't forget , lots of release agent .

Regards John

[rotorman]

Making progress: completely sealed the cabinet from inside using epoxy and glass.

Now comes the cryogel. I can not wrap the cryogel around my box, I need to insert sheets separately and then the box. I was thinking to wrap each cryogel sheet in sealed food wraps. This is to give an extra protection against moisture and it would also make it easier to handle it. Opinions?

The alternative plan is to use Selleys Liquid Nails, I have tested and works quite well.

[bcboomer]

Cryogel is hydrophobic so you won't have any moisture absorption.
As was said before, it is messy, so encasing it might control the dust.

[Typhoon]

Yes as stated before Aerogel is Hydrophobic , or "it will not absorb moisture" . But moisture can still collect within the insulated cavity . This can accumulate over time and rot out the wood surrounding your box.

You don't have to encapsulate each layer , just line the entire box with 6mm vapor barrier , then lay in your insulation. Then another layer of vapor barrier then the box liner . Your done .

[rotorman]

Thanks, what do you use for 6 mm vapor barrier?

[Terra Nova]

Aluminized Mylar provides a vapor barrier and UV radiation shield.

[Typhoon]

Originally Posted by rotorman

Thanks, what do you use for 6 mm vapor barrier?

This is the stuff. Not sure what you can get in your area, but it is a basic building material.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-20-f...620C/204711640

Regards John

[rotorman]

Ok. So I have laminated and fully sealed the inside of the cabinet. I plan to put the insulation in. Then I plan to laminate an epoxy box into the cabinet. So the insulation is completely sealed. So I think I don't need another vapour barrier since I already have one, right?

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by rotorman

fully sealed the inside of the cabinet.
...
So I think I don't need another vapour barrier since I already have one, right?

what do you mean by fully sealed?

What if your liner gets a crack?

It's not as if you'd lose any volume, 6 mil is 6/1000 of an inch, or 0.006 inch.

[Typhoon]

You would need at least 20mm of epoxy to form an effective vapor barrier. If you use a fiberglass mat with the epoxy I would go to 40mm thickness just to make sure , or you could just lay in a piece of 6mm poly vapor barrier just to be sure.

Regards John.

[Terra Nova]

Using poly you won't get the UV barrier.

[bcboomer]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

Using poly you won't get the UV barrier.

I'm a little confused. How much UV could there be inside a boat and how would it get through the fibreglass, wood etc. and how much heat energy could it contain??