Real sea-cocks

[Curtis Shipp]

I have been searching for real sea-cocks. Spartan are the only ones I can find + $$$. I am looking at making some from 3/4" -2" from C90700 bronze this is bronze and tin mix. This is the correct blend of bronze and tin, 0% zinc. What I am looking for is how many people would be interested in machined heavy duty permanent sea-cocks? The price will be about 60% of Spartan and would be very sturdy. Not cast cute but machined strong from a billet. These will be the first line of defense against sinking from thru-hull fitting failure. I have to replace 6 of mine and only want to do it once. I will post pictures when they are finished. Also these are not ball type. These are the tapered plug style and will match Willcox-Crittenden style sea-cocks, although a little heavier.

[tkeithlu]

I didn't have any trouble finding everything I wanted surplus 10-15 years ago, at much less than you are proposing. There are lots of boats out there that are not going to sea again.

[tkeithlu]

I won't consider ebay to be the best source, but they do have some decently priced ones among the outrageous ones right now.

[rbk]

I would strongly consider looking at Groco and their IVBF base flange system with separate valve. About the same price when all said and done but the ability to swap out the valve without removing the thru hull is a big plus. In a pinch you could even swap out for a residential brass ball valve to get you home, and those are available almost everywhere and dirt cheap.

[Curtis Shipp]

I have bought 2 WC sea-cocks. I will be using them for specs. I can find some on E-bay but there are not many. So to me the best thing to do is make them. Anybody or nobody wants them is ok to me. This is an offer to make some win, lose or draw. I have the machines and knowledge to do it. I will not be putting garbage in my boat.

[tkeithlu]

Well, I'm certainly with you there. I built my own boat because I wasn't willing to take the trawlers I could afford to to sea - too many compromises on hull shape for more space, and seacocks everywhere water was needed, including under engines where you'd never get to them in time if you popped one. So, here's something for you to consider: My 63 ton boat has only two seacocks. One is 3/4" for sewage, and stays locked, the other is 1 1/2" for everything else - engine, genset, shaft bearings, transmission cooler, water maker, salt water washdown, and maybe a few others. It means more hose, but I reversed the lever (Up is Off) on my 1 1/2" Perko with strainer so that I can pull a wire in the main salon and close it. I met a Nordhaven owner last year who told me he has 27 seacocks........

[Curtis Shipp]

Originally Posted by rbk

I would strongly consider looking at Groco and their IVBF base flange system with separate valve. About the same price when all said and done but the ability to swap out the valve without removing the thru hull is a big plus. In a pinch you could even swap out for a residential brass ball valve to get you home, and those are available almost everywhere and dirt cheap.

The IVBF units are threaded. I want the type where the valve and body are one unit. One install no more problems. Lube 2 times a year (live long and prosper). Stole that from Spoke on Star Trek. Just looking for feed back on making them. My Pearson 30's have them and they a perfect. These are 70's model boats. I want them on my Irwin 34. The Morgan died a fiery death off the coast of Florida. I did not own it then. In a pinch my sea-cocks will not fail.

[rbk]

Originally Posted by tkeithlu

Well, I'm certainly with you there. I built my own boat because I wasn't willing to take the trawlers I could afford to to sea - too many compromises on hull shape for more space, and seacocks everywhere water was needed, including under engines where you'd never get to them in time if you popped one. So, here's something for you to consider: My 63 ton boat has only two seacocks. One is 3/4" for sewage, and stays locked, the other is 1 1/2" for everything else - engine, genset, shaft bearings, transmission cooler, water maker, salt water washdown, and maybe a few others. It means more hose, but I reversed the lever (Up is Off) on my 1 1/2" Perko with strainer so that I can pull a wire in the main salon and close it. I met a Nordhaven owner last year who told me he has 27 seacocks........

Where do your bilge pump(s) drain?

[rbk]

Originally Posted by Curtis Shipp

The IVBF units are threaded. I want the type where the valve and body are one unit. One install no more problems. Lube 2 times a year (live long and prosper). Stole that from Spoke on Star Trek. Just looking for feed back on making them. My Pearson 30's have them and they a perfect. These are 70's model boats. I want them on my Irwin 34. The Morgan died a fiery death off the coast of Florida. I did not own it then. In a pinch my sea-cocks will not fail.

Yes and you skin fitting and seacock will also be threaded to each other so...

[tkeithlu]

My bilge pumps, and all discharges except sewage, are well above the waterline.

[Curtis Shipp]

Originally Posted by rbk

Yes and you skin fitting and seacock will also be threaded to each other so...

My sea-cock will be thru bolted to hull and have a fitting that screws in from bottom. Just like all others. But it will never break off or break a ball in my valve. My sea-cocks will only break above the valve if you hit it with a sledge hammer. When I say permanent I mean it. You do not have to buy them. This is just giving people the option.

[rbk]

Originally Posted by Curtis Shipp

My sea-cock will be thru bolted to hull and have a fitting that screws in from bottom. Just like all others. But it will never break off or break a ball in my valve. My sea-cocks will only break above the valve if you hit it with a sledge hammer. When I say permanent I mean it. You do not have to buy them. This is just giving people the option.

Ya its your boat, best of luck