PVC pipe instead of hose for head?

[Onemoreproject]

Nigel Calder and West Marine Suggest using PVC when possible for heads and holding tanks instead of sanitation hose. Has anyone done that?
Is regular schedule 40 white PVC odor proof or is there something else I should use?
I am thinking of using PVC between the Joker valve fitting and the holding tank.
One of the reasons for that decision is because the stiff sanitation hose leverages too much site pressure on the New joker valve I installed. The valve now leaks profusely when I pump the handle even once

[peghall]

Yes, you can use PVC sched 40 instead of hose, but it's only recommended for long straight runs. However, it's stiffer than your hose, so i don't think it will solve your problem.

If your toilet discharge fitting is straight fitting, I suspect that it's not the stiffness of any hose that's putting pressure to one side of the connection, it's because the hose needs to run that direction. Replacing the fitting with a 90 that you can aim in the direction the hose needs to run should solve your problem.

You may have compounded the problem by over-tightening the fitting in an effort to stop the leak. The flange on the joker valve is the gasket that seals the connection. When the bolts are over tightened, they cause the rubber flange to develop a pucker that CAUSES the connection to leak...and the more you tighten it, the worse it gets. The pucker doesn't ever relax, so you'll prob'ly have to replace the joker valve when you replace the fitting. Tighten only barely snug at first...then, if it leaks, just a quarter turn on both bolts till you stop the leak, no more.

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by Onemoreproject

...I am thinking of using PVC between the Joker valve fitting and the holding tank...the stiff sanitation hose leverages too much site pressure on the New joker valve I installed. The valve now leaks profusely when I pump the handle even once

To correct a bad installation, do not look for some magic bullet to solve the problem. The most trouble free system would have one short, continuous, smooth-wall hose going directly from head outlet to holding tank. The more you complicate this run with valves and fittings, hoses and pipes, the more problematic your system will be.

Re-do the bad installation.

[Lepke]

I'd use schedule 80. Thicker walls, less likely to crack or break. Use sweeping turn fittings or no angle sharper than 45°. On a regular 90° the thick stuff wants to compact in the turn and can eventually block the pipe.

[TurninTurtle]

PVC doesn't do well with constant bending. The joints tend to pop loose.

Not exactly what you want for your toilet drain.

Your hull flexes somewhat under loads as you sail. It may not be noticeable but its there.

Building codes wouldn't approve the flex hose in a house... there's a reason it gets used in a boat.

[capt-couillon]

Installed all my blackwater runs in schedule 40 pvc (including pump out lines) and ran vent lines in 3/4" pex 2 years ago when replacing the head system. Zero leaks, zero odors, zero problems.

Your mileage may vary

[IdoraKeeper]

oh for Pete's sake yes......look carefully at the install..cut the pvc and forget hose. No stink, no problem😀

[RaymondR]

The PVC pipe used for sewage in Australia is yellow in colour. I don't know if this is just for identification purposes or whether it has a formulation to prevent odours but it is probably worth researching. I use PVC piping for bilge and drain lines because it is easier to route and fix.

[HopCar]

Peggie is correct, as usual. PVC will work well on straight runs. You'll need to connect it to the toilet with hose. The tail piece needs to point in the direction the hose runs. You can get straight or 90 tail pieces for most toilets.

If you need to make tight turns with the hose, Raritan makes a very flexible high quality sanitation hose.
Raritan SANI-FLEX Odor Shield Hose 1-1/2"

[mikecambrai]

I have been using rigid PVC piping for decades. The only problem that I have had was when I glued 2 pieces of pipe together with a cllar, and after a year the glue came unfixed. So I will never use a glue joint again in that application.
Straight runs of rigid piping have been OK, but when fixing the flexible pipe to the tube make sure that you use a properly sized jubilee clip. To help the pipe round a corner, gentle heat from a gun will set the flexible pipe to the radius you want although there will be a minumum radius before the pipe will tend to buckle.
All the heating systems that I have put in 40m barges over the past 20 years have been with rigid plastic pipes wihtout any problems. Their flexibility is an advantage on boats.

[tinkrman69]

sch 40 PVC is fine no odor and doesn't seem to build up inside as quick. But the problem of vibration and the flexing of the hull will cause cracks at the joints if you go ridged from end to end. use hose at each end to eliminate this. you can go ridged off the head for a short way and then put in a small section of hose to ease the need for tight bending of the hose in tight areas. if your holding tank is close or above the level of the head you'll need to incorporate a vented loop. if the head is blow the water line you'll need one for the overboard thru-hull. you can incorporate this betwixt the Y valve and the sea cock. and definitely use hose at the thru-hull....you don't want that cracking ;-)

I've done it to previous boats and will do it to this one if/when the time comes.

[Tbonem17]

Originally Posted by RaymondR

The PVC pipe used for sewage in Australia is yellow in colour. I don't know if this is just for identification purposes or whether it has a formulation to prevent odours but it is probably worth researching. I use PVC piping for bilge and drain lines because it is easier to route and fix.

All sewer pvc pipe in Oz is an off/white/grey colour now. They've stopped making separate sewer and SWV (soil waste vent) pipes and have combined the two. The old yellow sewer had nor UV protection. The new does.

No glued pvc joint will ever come unstuck if installed properly. Try using some pvc cleaner before gluing.

I don't know what size line you need to replace or what fittings you need for the ends but have you thought of using poly?

Tony

[Rainh2o2]

Yep used ridged pvc when I replaced and refitted my head. No problem so far. No stink either. Heating it up with a heat gun to make strang little curve and allow things to line up better works great.

[desdestiny]

I have worked with rigid PVC for many years in plumbing Spa Baths.
The colour coding is for identification - not for additional odour reasons.
PVC is best material used in chemical fume cupboards.
If you need to bend the rigid PVC - simply use a heat gun. Experiment first as the heat gun will quickly get the PVC hot and can burn it brown.
Apply the heat evenly around the PVC and very quickly it will be flexible.
When you bend the PVC it can kink. To overcome this find a piece of flexible pipe (rubber or flexible PVC) which has a thick wall.
Use this as a former and you can easily bend the PVC into a U bend with 200 mm radius - and without collapse.
The best PVC pipe to use has thicker wall - although the thicker wall will take longer to heat soak through to the inside wall.
To cool it down - hold in place for a few seconds until it rehardens.
If you do not have a heat gun - then borrow the wifes (girlfriends) hair dryer - it works just as well.
Problems will arise if you overheat the PVC. If you have no browning - you can create all sorts of bends. Make sure you do not have sagging which will allow the fluid to pool.

[ZipTie]

This Thread tells all for PVC and Head Hose.

PVC is always the best way to go, but can not always be used, so the instructions for sewage hose is 1st rate.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ipe-52035.html