OMG...what a bad day

[bcboomer]

While you're at it, replace your thru hulls and valves with those from Trudesign.
You'll never have to worry about corrosion and the don't seize up. Raritan distributes them in the US.

I won't point out that, for a lot less work, you could have trashed all that stuff you cleaned and put in a composting head.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by bcboomer

While you're at it, replace your thru hulls and valves with those from Trudesign.
You'll never have to worry about corrosion and the don't seize up. Raritan distributes them in the US.

I won't point out that, for a lot less work, you could have trashed all that stuff you cleaned and put in a composting head.

funny you would say that . That's just what I did and I just closed the valves and cut the hoses off.

[sainted]

Pete 7, you forgot one step, which is where you put 5200 on the new fitting. You put it on before it goes in the bucket. Yes, you can use 5200 under water like that. After all, it is moisture that cures 5200.

[Cheechako]

Replace the broken off fitting. The seacock drip doesn't matter once the hose is back on. .. and my not drip when the seacock is reopened. Check/relube/replace the seacock next haulout.
Remove the bonding. I never liked it. My opinion is it's a corrosion inducer not saver.
The Cape Dory should have Spartan Seacocks which are great.

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Remove the bonding. I never liked it. My opinion is it's a corrosion inducer not saver.

Bonding is just an American idea which the rest of the world moved away from.

Pete

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by Pete7

Bonding is just an American idea which the rest of the world moved away from.

Pete

Pete my defender has full bonding with the terminus being a #4 divers friend no issues with the systems in 45 years.
But the boat was built when they still made real silicon bronze to.

[OldManMirage]

Ok, just an update. Things are not as bad as they first seemed.

Went back down to check on Mirage today and see if she was still floating. She was ! Taking a closer look at the offending fitting, I tired applying a little heat and was able to remove the threaded piece of the tail that was still left. It came off without too much effort. The rest of the thru-hull looks good, I did indeed bang on it with a hammer and it sounds solid.

However, it does seep a little still. Interestingly, the river was at a very low tide - and the boat does come to rest on the bottom at dead low - and I was able to open the valve and peer through it. Working it back and forth ( I have enough room to swing the handle 90 degrees either side - it looks like it must simply be worn. Wasp-waisted is term I believe ? It has probably seeped all along but I didn't notice it when the tail was still on because that brought the height up above the water line.

I suppose the valve could be lapped ? I've done that before in the Navy so I'm familiar with it. I think I'd rather just replace it.

So, bottom line (ha-ha !) for me is I think I will install a plastic style 90 for now and wait for haul out as per my original plans. Which will now include replacing the thru-hulls. I don't see an issue with possible flooding as the other end of the hose is the holding tank, which is essentially a closed system.

Any further constructive thoughts are appreciated. I have no interest in a composting toilet, thanks.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by OldManMirage

Ok, just an update. Things are not as bad as they first seemed.

Went back down to check on Mirage today and see if she was still floating. She was ! Taking a closer look at the offending fitting, I tired applying a little heat and was able to remove the threaded piece of the tail that was still left. It came off without too much effort. The rest of the thru-hull looks good, I did indeed bang on it with a hammer and it sounds solid.

However, it does seep a little still. Interestingly, the river was at a very low tide - and the boat does come to rest on the bottom at dead low - and I was able to open the valve and peer through it. Working it back and forth ( I have enough room to swing the handle 90 degrees either side - it looks like it must simply be worn. Wasp-waisted is term I believe ? It has probably seeped all along but I didn't notice it when the tail was still on because that brought the height up above the water line.

I suppose the valve could be lapped ? I've done that before in the Navy so I'm familiar with it. I think I'd rather just replace it.

So, bottom line (ha-ha !) for me is I think I will install a plastic style 90 for now and wait for haul out as per my original plans. Which will now include replacing the thru-hulls. I don't see an issue with possible flooding as the other end of the hose is the holding tank, which is essentially a closed system.

Any further constructive thoughts are appreciated. I have no interest in a composting toilet, thanks.

run her into shallower water and let her go dry at low tide and just replace the thru hulls a couple at a time it won't hurt the boat just secure everything below so it stays where you want it to. That's how I clean my hull all the time. ( you will lean over about 30 to 35 degrees. No biggie)

[Mike Banks]

I would find that VERY encouraging. The alternative to discoveriung this while in port and close to amenities is having it snap off while in a heavy sea--and your vessel foundering.

This little episode might have saved the lives of yourself and anyone else aboard--

"Always look on the bright, side of your life--"

[Pizzazz]

Around here (Socal) we divers who clean the bottom on a regular basis. Most of them are willing to help change a throughull in the water. The process is quite simple:

1. Push the old throughull out, the diver covers the hole with a cone shaped plastic funnel or by hand.
2. You scrape/clean up the inside.
3. You cover the hole by hand, the diver scrapes/cleans out the bottom part.
4. The diver comes out and takes the new transducer/valve pretreated with Sikaflex. Pushes is from the outside in.
5. Tighten and finish the job from the inside.

It is really a 15 minute job with the right amount of preparation. The typical diver has done many of these and gives you comfort and guidance. I even saw one guy replace a shaft this way with a PSS seal. Just make sure you is Sikaflex.

SV Pizzazz

[hamburking]

Originally Posted by boden36

You could look at it another way. How lucky are you that you found the problem when you did!!

YES...with only WATER dripping...not the "good" stuff!!!!
Always best to find things like this at your home dock, rather than 1 day into your vacation. So turn that frown upside down... OMG...what a lucky day!

[Don C L]

Yeah I am with the "it was a LUCKY day" camp on this one! Not to diminish your frustration, but when you said you had a bad day I was imagining something a little worse. However, having worked on two heads that both got me, heads are definitely high on my list of the worst things in life.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by Don C L

Yeah I am with the "it was a LUCKY day" camp on this one! Not to diminish your frustration, but when you said you had a bad day I was imagining something a little worse. However, having worked on two heads that both got me, heads are definitely high on my list of the worst things in life.

composter and problems are gone . Plus 2 fewer holes needed in your hull.

[alctel]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Good chance there was a brass fitting on a bronze seacock.
Brass + seawater = bad idea.

I just discovered the very same thing yesterday when I checked all my seacocks

[OldManMirage]

Yes, after careful examination I do believe that the tailpipe was a dissimilar metal than the seacock itself, hence leading to its demise.

I still plan to replace the fitting completely when I haul out, but I don't feel there is a need to do so ahead of schedule now.

Thanks for all the constructive replies. And no, still not interested in a composting toilet !