Manual toilet fails to suck water out of the bowl after flushing solid waste

[LifesBetterWhenYoureBeating]

Originally Posted by TheOffice

Have you tried turning the Y valve? Is the tank empty?

Did you read the OP and my last post? The tank is empty and properly discharging overboard as I've been living aboard for nearly a year and using the toilet several times a day. The only issue is with solid waste the pump becomes ineffective (without any change in its resistance) for a long time until something happens and it starts working normally

[krid2000]

Did you check the flapper valve? If this one doesn't close properly, for example because of stuck solids, there's no pressure building up in the pump.

Dirk

[Pandor]

I’m confused by the OP. If you are pumping overboard, why use the dry-mode to flush solids at all? Jabsco says to flush using wet-mode. Dry mode is for clearing the bowl of remaining liquid

[LifesBetterWhenYoureBeating]

Originally Posted by krid2000

Did you check the flapper valve? If this one doesn't close properly, for example because of stuck solids, there's no pressure building up in the pump.



Dirk

I've tried to different brand new base valve gaskets (I believe that's the one you're taking about?) And the problem persists

But that valve only closes on the down stroke, and my problem is probably on the up stroke, which is when bowl contents are sucked into the pump, no?

[LifesBetterWhenYoureBeating]

Originally Posted by senormechanico

Maybe a change in your diet might help?[emoji3]

I'm starting to think my diet/bowels may be the problem indeed...

The outlet from the bowl itself is rather narrow and I can totally see how some dense s*** can get stuck on the bend before the base valve gasket, allowing only a tiny amount of water to pass through on every stroke, until eventually it gets broken down, gets sucked into the pump and everything goes smooth again

I just threw a couple big, compressed, balls of TP onto a dry bowl, switched to wet mode and started pumping. Initially I could see the first get stuck on the bottom of the bowl but after a couple strokes it was gone and the bowl never filled up with water more than normal.

Maybe I'll get into the habit of reading on the [emoji372], to give the water in the bowl some time to make the pump's job easier

[krid2000]

Originally Posted by LifesBetterWhenYoureBeating

But that valve only closes on the down stroke, and my problem is probably on the up stroke, which is when bowl contents are sucked into the pump, no?

Well, if it doesn't close properly, you're just sucking waste water into the pump and then back into the bowl again.

Dirk

[goboatingnow]

All toilets are too small for my evacuations, including the on land units. The6 litre EU limit clearly wasn’t designed for people like me. A legacy of blocked public toilets follows my “ wake “. I love the old high level cistern units. Brilliant.

My new electric toilet draws 15A for its output pump , everything disappears !!!

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

My new electric toilet draws 15A for its output pump , everything disappears !!!

I've got an old Raritan Crown that needs a rebuild.
While many electric units look like they use an automotive windshield wiper motor, the motor on the Crown looks like a starter motor from a small diesel engine.
Don't know the draw, but I'm guessing it's in the 25>30-amp range? (12V).
I think they've fallen out of favor for most usage?
Perhaps it's the cost.

[peghall]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

I've got an old Raritan Crown that needs a rebuild.
While many electric units look like they use an automotive windshield wiper motor, the motor on the Crown looks like a starter motor from a small diesel engine.
Don't know the draw, but I'm guessing it's in the 25>30-amp range? (12V).
I think they've fallen out of favor for most usage?
Perhaps it's the cost.

The first one, introduced in the late '70s, was named "Standard" (which has always misled owners into thinking the rebuild kit for it was the standard ("universal") kit for all versions--drew 30 amps. The DD (Deep Draft) version was the second version...it drew a whopping 50 amps. The current--since the late '80s--CD (centrifugal discharge) version draws 36 amps. You can still get a rebuild kit for the CD version...kit is CDRK.


It has indeed fallen out of favor with the recreational market, not only because of its high amperage draw but also because it also needs 1-3 gallons of water/flush and makes enough noise to wake the dead. However, if you run a NY Harbor tugboat or a "Deadliest Catch" fishing trawler kind of vessel, it should be at the top of your list of marine toilets 'cuz the Crown Head may be a "dinosaur," but it's an almost indestructible work horse.


--Peggie

[Bowdrie]

^ Thank you Peg.
I see your point about "wake up the dead", especially in a crowded moorage/anchorage at 02:30hrs.
Raritan does have a factory exchange program. You send them your old Crown, (of whatever model,) and they send you a new one, all for less cost than the price of an Elegance model.
I much prefer bronze toilets.
I have enough spare parts to, (hopefully,) keep the Skipper running for the rest of my boating life, but in case of serious catastrophe there is a Groco K and the Crown waiting in the wings to take the place of the Skipper.
Gotta say though, I do like the Tecma.
Now back to regular programming.

[LifesBetterWhenYoureBeating]

Indeed the s*** was getting stuck on the corner leading into the pump, and I found out that if I pull the handle real quick it will suck everything out of the bowl and through the narrow passage going into the pump, so that way it works just fine