jabsco joker valve an annual replacement?

[Ex-Calif]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Last page ➥ http://ec1.images-amazon.com/media/i...0000001680.pdf

Thanks Gord! And DotDun!

[D&D]

This thread, whilst full of good information, seems to cross over between manual and electric heads. Some posts appear directed exclusively to manual heads and some to electric.

Can anyone enlighten us as to what (if any?!) is the difference maintenance-wise between the joker valves on manual vis-a-vis electric heads?

[peghall]

The joker valve in a manual head is critical to the operation of the toilet. However, it's just a one way backflow blocker in most electric toilets. But because the slit stretches with use, if you want it to work as a backflow blocker, it still should be replaced annually if you're a liveaboard, semi-annually if you're just a "weekend warrior," especially if the toilet discharge line goes up to a vented loop, or even if it's just an uphill slope to the tank. That's really all the maintenance most electric toilets need between rebuilds every 5-6 years.

[RickMorgan]

First time posting here, and the subject is heads, of course. I've two of the little wonders, and since we just purchased the boat, a Leopard 38, I don't know the maintenance history.
Since I'm about to plunge in (sorry), how do you keep all the black water from running out onto you when you remove the joker valve flange?

Also, any hints on loosening frozen engine bolts? Tried a bigg(er) wrench, PB spray, hammer, and vise grips, with no success. Already sheared off two bolts, rather not do more.

Rick
Sweet William III
Currently Stuart, FL

[HopCar]

Hi Rick, Welcome.
About the only thing you can do is pump a lot of clean water through the system before you take it apart. Wear rubber gloves. It's not too bad a job.

Stuck bolts, Can you heat the metal around the bolt? I've gotten to the point that I don't bother with Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, Mouse Milk or any of the others. I go right to propane or in tough cases actelene.

[DotDun]

Originally Posted by RickMorgan

First time posting here, and the subject is heads, of course. I've two of the little wonders, and since we just purchased the boat, a Leopard 38, I don't know the maintenance history.
Since I'm about to plunge in (sorry), how do you keep all the black water from running out onto you when you remove the joker valve flange?

Pump like crazy! If your holding tank is below the toilet, it should not run back. If the holding tank is above the toilet, pump copious amounts of clean water thru it, then pump it dry until your arm falls off, then you might get lucky!

I like routine maintenance when the tank is empty and flushed out a couple of times with fresh water. Once you get used to how often maintenance is needed, it's not too bad. I replace the base valve, joker valve, and lube the o-rings at least annually, more if they act up.

Originally Posted by RickMorgan

Also, any hints on loosening frozen engine bolts? Tried a bigg(er) wrench, PB spray, hammer, and vise grips, with no success. Already sheared off two bolts, rather not do more.

Heat? Like from a torch.

[peghall]

first time posting here, and the subject is heads, of course. I've two of the little wonders,....how do you keep all the black water from running out onto you when you remove the joker valve flange?

First you flush enough clean water through the toilet--a bucketful of clean FRESH is a good idea--to get rid of any black water that remains in the system. Assuming that these are manual toilets, flush in the dry mode long enough to clear as much water out of the line as possible. Then you put a plastic bag or a shallow disposable aluminum pan under the connection BEFORE you loosen any bolts.

When you replace the discharge fitting after you've replaced the joker valve, be careful not to OVERtighten the bolts. Doing so will cause the flange--which is gasket that seals the connection--to pucker, which in turn will cause it the fitting to leak.

Since you don't know what if any maintenance has ever been done to these toilets, while you're at it, why not go ahead a stick a rebuild kit in 'em and lubricate 'em? 'Cuz preventive maintenance can be done on your terms when it's convenient for a price that's known going it....while fix-what-breaks always needs fixing when it's anything BUT convenient and always costs at least twice as much.

[gettinthere]

Not sure if you'd get backflow from the holding tank, mine do not.

So all I have is a few cups of water in the bowl (assuming there was no blockage issue). I use a turkey baster to suck out the water in the bowl. Usually only leaves a small amount to mop up when disassembling.

Just make sure you don't use the baster on your turkey afterwards!

[RickMorgan]

Thanks for the common sense replies. Sounds like a good rainy day project. Next up, replacing sanitation hose!

[gettinthere]

Hose? Tident 101 only!

[Bob on OTTER]

Looks like plenty of good info! Stay dry shipmate! Nasty job, but really easy.

Bob ex-OTTER

[RickMorgan]

Dreading it, but it's on the list of to- dos.

[zeehag]

we used a bit of vinegar thru the system and was nice n clean when we changed our jabsco pump after over 10 yrs of flawless service. eel grass blocked it once, but that wasnt toilet's fault...
add vinegar, flush through with water and pump absolutely dry. then go for it.

if it is really ugly, pull the eel grass out by hand, as we had to do ---- we experienced severe eel grass blockage of intake hose and fitting --wasnt toilet's fault----was neighborhood in which i was moored in sd..lol

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by HopCar

Complete replacement pumps for Jabsco manual toilets are pretty reasonable.
Jabsco Toilet Pump - 29040-3000

That is pretty reasonable and it would certainly be easier than installing a rebuild kit.

I bought my (pre owned) boat five years ago and replaced the head within a year or so. I haven't had any problems with the replacement except having to lubricate the pump from time to time, so I guess some maintenance is about due. I didn't know about the complete pumps but now I do and that seems like the way to go. It looks like about a fifteen minute job.

[zeehag]

rwidman--took my mechanic 10-15 mins to change out mine, plus eel grass removal and jokes.....
he just changed out the entire pump assembly and re seated the top parts of the new one.