Holding tank inspection port

[peghall]

Interesting stuff...thanks!


I disagree with you about vent fitting location, though. IMO opinion, ideally all fittings should be on the top of the tank with a diptube on the discharge fittings. Even if all that isn't possible, the vent fitting should be on the top--but not in the center, in the inboard forward corner. Locating it inboard prevents tank contents from running out the vent when the boat heels 'cuz they'll run away from the vent on one tack, uphill when on the other tack. It's ok if the vent line has to run across the tank to the thru-hull.


Email me if you have better ideas...I never want to stop learning!

--Peggie

[Geek_Guy]

So you guys think that screws will hold a cover in place? I didn't think the plastic would hold screws well enough, which is why I was thinking I should put a backer and bolts from inside the tank. I saw one post referenced this type of fix.

I agree that the best solution is a new tank, but that seems a much bigger solution than is needed. Even if I do backer and bolts it would be much cheaper and easier than a tank.

But I'm a cheap dude!?!

[peghall]

So you guys think that screws will hold a cover in place?


Self-tapping screws are widely used to hold the FLANGE--which should have a rubber gasket under it--in place...the COVER is threaded and sealed with an o-ring. Dometic/SeaLand TankWatch tank level indicators are a good example.



--Peggie

[Geek_Guy]

Thanks all.

I always appreciate the information and help from this group.

Peggy I was and am totally in on the rubber gasket. Thinking too that some bigger screws would be good. Agree on the fact that it's not high pressure, though it is high impact if it leaks. Pretty yuckie situation.

[Mother1ship]

seems like plop a generous layer of fiberglas, epoxy the hello out of it from the top, fogedaboudit. any reason that wouldn't work?

[Tanqueray]

Originally Posted by Geek_Guy

So you guys think that screws will hold a cover in place? I didn't think the plastic would hold screws well enough, which is why I was thinking I should put a backer and bolts from inside the tank. I saw one post referenced this type of fix.

I agree that the best solution is a new tank, but that seems a much bigger solution than is needed. Even if I do backer and bolts it would be much cheaper and easier than a tank.

But I'm a cheap dude!?!

I am a cheap dude too. I installed those same ports in my water tanks (plastic). The screws are OK, but I get leaks when the tanks are full, and the boat is heeled over. I intend to remount the “frame” with small bolts/nuts and fresh sealant.

For a holding tank, you want all the help you can get sealing that thing

Greg

[peghall]

The screws are OK, but I get leaks when the tanks are full, and the boat is heeled over.

A thick rubber gasket under the flange and a rubber o-ring on the cap should prevent that. Both typically require replacement after 5-6 years.


--Peggie

[hornby sailor]

plastic welding might do the trick.